Yahoo Lifestyle Alexandre Vauthier’s New Chapter Begins With Spring 2025 Couture
For Alexandre Vauthier, this fall couture collection marks a new chapter for his 16-year-old label.
Not only is it the first show since his eponymous label was acquired by longtime retail partner Revolve in June but it’s also a complete 180 from the exuberant party vibe of his earlier years.
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“It’s all about elegance, [going] back to the roots,” he said backstage. “I wanted to work on the essentials and what’s essential for me is the quality of the fabrics and the cut.”
The opening look, a sand-colored draped cape paired with trousers tucked into boots, epitomized a direction that hinged on “having all the ancestral couture techniques but with a touch of edge and a modern context,” as the designer put it.
Vauthier further leaned into that direction by showing in a series of intimate salons of the Monnaie de Paris, France’s sovereign mint, chosen for their classic character that telegraphed the intimacy of a home — albeit it an upscale Parisian one.
Less overtly sexy, the season leaned further in the quiet direction he’d explored with fall 2023, full of substantial, tactile materials. Reinforced by the prevalence of tailoring in the lineup, it telegraphed the idea of couture as an experience for one’s self rather than for show.
Mainstays included sharp blazers and pant suits that demonstrated Vauthier’s technical chops. But he also offered fresh eyecatchers such as a cape dress in sparkling rhinestones that revealed high-cut slits with every step; a bustier jumpsuit with floor-length panels modeled after the flaps of a jacket, and an asymmetric number that completely uncovered one leg.
For those who might miss his more glamorous leanings, the designer offered swinging fringed silhouettes made of tubes of organza embellished with chains and tipped with delicate feathers. On a dress, they tumbled from a square leather neckline and had required five different specialty crafts, he added.
Bespoke mask sunglasses, produced exclusively and to order only by specialist Alain Mikli, also made an appearance.
This new chapter read like a luxurious but quiet easing back following a turbulent period that saw the company go under administration in late 2023, after running into difficulties due to retailer arrears.
It will soon get busy once more. As part of the takeover, Revolve is set to invest more than 6 million euros over the course of the next three years. Coming up next on the roadmap is the relaunch of the Alexandre Vauthier website in February and with it, the ready-to-wear line, Revolve’s co-chief executive officer Michael Mente told WWD.
Handbags, footwear and other categories are in the works but the executive said the pace would remain moderate as the focus is on making the best of the “luxurious opportunity to really reset, refocus and take everything to the next level.”
Launch Gallery: Alexandre Vauthier Spring 2025 Couture
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