Yahoo Lifestyle Jacquemus Gets Intimate With Couture-inspired Spring 2025 Show
For his grand return to Paris Fashion Week, Simon Porte Jacquemus went small — tiny, in fact.
In contrast to his usual runway extravaganzas, he opted for a show for just 40 people in the private apartment of architect Auguste Perret, an Art Deco jewel with oak paneling and concrete pillars.
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Think of it as a house party where guests included Pamela Anderson, K-pop star Hongjoong and former French First Lady Carla Bruni, who posed next to an Aristide Maillol statue set up in the middle of the living room, dressed in a black off-the-shoulder evening gown with a fishtail train and dark sunglasses.
Naturally, there was a Champagne spill before things properly warmed up.
Standing in the blue bathroom, Inès de la Fressange wondered aloud at the presence of an iPhone under the sink — part of a partnership with Apple to capture the coed runway show, titled “La Croisière,” using the camera system on the iPhone 16 Pro Max device.
“You’d better take your bath in a swimsuit,” she mused.
Jacquemus, who recently opened a store in New York City and has another one planned in Los Angeles, said he was inspired by the story of French couturiers like Christian Dior and Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel conquering America — so he imagined what his brand might have looked like in the ‘50s.
“I wanted a very intimate, almost like a salon moment. I watched a lot of old couture [shows] with salons, and I also wanted to be honest with you, like being in front of you with just my silhouettes, no artifice,” he explained after the show. “Because Jacquemus shows are always [in] beautiful locations, insane, and sometimes I felt like the collection could disappear.”
Upping the glamour factor, his cast was stacked with veteran models including Doutzen Kroes, Liya Kebede and Irina Shayk.
Christy Turlington looked serene in a cinched black peacoat with a drop-waisted black skirt, while Eva Herzigova rocked a white poplin windbreaker with a cocoon back, paired with sculptural curved black pants.
Jacquemus worked his trademark geometric shapes with tabard tops, circle skirts and hourglass dresses inspired by Marilyn Monroe, while male models with super cinched belts looked ready to take on Kim Kardashian in a waist training tournament.
A pale yellow dress evoked Grace Kelly in “To Catch a Thief” — though censors would have balked at the conical bra poking through the superfine knit top. Other outfits were more overtly sensual, like the slinky black jersey “naked” dress worn by Adriana Lima, as well as front row guest Tyla.
Menswear, meanwhile, picked up on the Americana trend with variations on workwear jackets, preppy blazers and tailored denim.
You got the feeling that Jacquemus, who was touted last fall as one of the candidates to take over Chanel, was bent on proving he has the chops, if not to take on a heritage brand, then to become one on his own after celebrating his 15th anniversary last year.
“I’m really happy because we pushed the atelier so much with this collection,” said the designer, pointing out that a powder puff of a feather dress was made with the Chanel-owned specialist workshop Lemarié.
But while this collection was his most mature effort yet, too many of the silhouettes felt familiar, with elements of Schiaparelli, Alaïa and Bottega Veneta bubbling under the surface.
“I have still a lot of work,” acknowledged Jacquemus, saying his journey into couture was only just beginning.
The designer is seeking a minority investor to fund his retail growth and expansion into beauty, so he may have more resources to play with in future. For now, he has staked his ground by returning to the official Paris show calendar after years of going it alone.
“I couldn’t show this collection anywhere else, and also it was something that I missed in a way,” he said, declaring it “a new chapter for the brand.”
Launch Gallery: Jacquemus Fall 2025 Ready-to-Wear Collection
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