Haider Ackermann’s Strength in RTW, Womenswear Were Key to Tom Ford Appointment

Haider Ackermann’s strength in ready-to-wear and accessories, as well as his color sense and expertise in womenswear, were among the reasons he was chosen to be the next creative director of Tom Ford, according to Gildo Zegna, chief executive officer of Ermenegildo Zegna Group, the licensee for the brand’s fashion business.

In an interview at the Villa Zegna installation in New York on Thursday, Zegna said: “Tom [Ford] has to be very, very strong in ready-to-wear. And we have to become much stronger in accessories. I think he’s [Ackermann] the right choice — I’m totally supportive of the decision, and will work with him to make it happen.”

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He added that in addition to his superior skills in design, Ackermann must be willing to make decisions quickly and shift gears in order to move the brand forward. “A CEO and creative director must be capable of making changes, quick changes, according to new challenges that present themselves around the world,” Zegna said.

On Wednesday, Tom Ford appointed Ackermann to the creative director role vacated by Peter Hawkings in July, less than a year after he stepped into the role following founder Ford’s exit. The Tom Ford brand was acquired by the Estée Lauder Companies for $2.8 billion in 2022. Marcolin SpA was licensed by Lauder for the eyewear business.

Founder Tom Ford said, “I have long been a great fan of Haider’s work. I find both his womenswear and menswear equally compelling. He is an incredible colorist, his tailoring is sharp, and above all he is modern. We share many of the same historical references, and I could not be more excited to see what he does with the brand. I suspect that I will be the first on my feet to applaud after his show in March.”

Ackermann is a French national born in Bogotá, Colombia, and was raised in Ethiopia, Chad, Algeria, the Netherlands, and Belgium, where he studied fashion at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp. He is known for the ability to create strong tailored pieces from luxurious fabrics. He will continue as the creative director of Canada Goose.

Ackermann’s first collection will debut at Paris Fashion Week in March 2025. He will be based in Paris and report to Guillaume Jesel, president and chief executive officer of Tom Ford and luxury business development at The Estée Lauder Cos., and Lelio Gavazza, CEO of Tom Ford Fashion at Zegna Group.

“Haider stands out as one of the world’s most visionary and inspiring talents in fashion. He draws on his deep affinity for global culture and the arts to create arresting fashion and memorable emotional connections. He is the ideal steward to usher Tom Ford  into the future,” said Jesel.

Gavazza added that Ackermann’s “renowned experience in luxury will be instrumental in driving the fashion business forward during its next important phase of expansion. Haider’s modern vision, for both men’s and women’s wear, will be essential as we advance and execute the many projects we have in development.”

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