Zuhair Murad Adds a Dash of Demure for Spring 2025 Couture

Zuhair Murad sought to recapture a little bit of old Hollywood magic, daring to slim down some of his silhouettes and exuding a more serene sophistication for fall.

He experimented with skirt shapes that were less body-con and more “Breakfast at Tiffany’s,” including midcentury-style fitted bodices with delicate balloon skirts cinched at the waist by black velvet bows.

More from WWD

A creamy silk sheath featured an exaggerated Bardot neckline, while another gown gave new definition to the sweetheart style, with acres of buttery silk gathered, cinched at the waist and rounded across the chest. The fuller, softer shape was a welcome departure for Murad.

ADVERTISEMENT

“I felt this was the mood for the season,” he said of digging into more classic archival cuts. “Others left us an encyclopedia of shapes and dresses. I get inspired from their work, and try to interpret in a new way.”

Bows played on a beauty note, too, featuring in several hairstyles.

Elsewhere he has been taken out of his comfort zone, most evidently by his collaboration with Marina Rinaldi, which has seen him design for different body types and explore proportions. Not to say that we saw a variety of sizes on this runway, but the collection was subtly sprinkled with these new ideas and silhouettes. A robe-style wrap with pockets added a relaxed air.

With more simplicity on several pieces this season, the Lebanese designer was able to focus on the luxe silks and bursts of rich color.

Still, there was plenty of classic Murad, and the man loves a sparkle.

ADVERTISEMENT

For his predominant color palette, he imagined a tropical island this season, with kiwi green and pineapple yellow, flowers in hibiscus and frangipane pink. Palm fronds and other flora were rendered across his more typical shapes with plenty of cutouts and belly-baring coordinates. These intricate embroideries delivered the drama that is expected from Murad.

And while he largely stayed away from the princess shape, a bubblegum pink puff of a gown would have been perfect for Ariana Grande’s “Wicked” tour. Murad is beloved by red carpet regulars, and awards season looms surely some of these pieces will take their place on the Hollywood runway.

Launch Gallery: Zuhair Murad Spring 2025 Couture

Best of WWD

Sign up for WWD's Newsletter. For the latest news, follow us on Facebook, Twitter, and Instagram.