Yahoo Lifestyle Thom Browne Goes Beyond a Total Look for Resort 2025
Thom Browne went from going all-in on muslin for his fall 2024 couture outing shown in Paris in June, to going all-in on merchandising for his latest coed collection for resort 2025, which demonstrated how his brand is evolving beyond a total look.
For resort, he brought a younger, more casual, sporty and layered spin to his gray flannel and hyper-embellished oeuvre with lots of wardrobing pieces that also leaned into red-white-and-blue Olympics fever and prep school uniforms, perhaps with a few passing references to “Clueless” style icon Cher Horowitz.
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If couture was about “letting people see under the hood” of his process, quality, construction and embroideries, as Browne said during a collection review at his showroom in Paris, resort seemed to be about showing the breadth of the Thom Browne world, from everyday piped blue blazers, crisp bow blouses, slips and shirtdresses to layer underneath miniskirts, down to Hector-the-dog patterned tights, animal-shaped tie bars and an ever-widening range of totes and trainers at entry and luxury price points.
Creatively, he said the starting point for the collection was actually the vinyl furniture covers that had their heyday in the 1950s and ’60s, which Browne has used as shoe coverings before, and used here from the first look, a handsome raincoat with a matching mini one for his popular Hector-the-dog bag.
In terms of craft, he carried over a painted application effect, with brushstroke effects on car coats, as well as his signature trompe l’oeil on a tidy blue-and-white shift with tie detail, and a color-blocked tweed on a great looking long line vest over a miniskirt.
Browne’s menswear is becoming less distinct from his womenswear, as is the modern way, and there were plenty of suit-and-tie options for those looking to buy into the trend seen on the spring Saint Laurent runway, and on Ayo Edebiri wearing Loewe on the Golden Globes red carpet.
He also cut gray flannel into more sporty pieces, as on a cool all-gray look of straight pants, dolphin shorts, an athletic jersey, suit jacket and tie, that seemed tailored for a tunnel walk. (The tonal athletic jersey-over-suit jacket trick used on several looks was a great touch.) Men’s tweed shorts suits, tailored denim, quilted eco-down vests, and riffs on the striped rugby and anorak in varying proportions looked fresh and easy to wear.
Mixed in with all the patch-worked madras and seersucker, red, white and blue prep, several black-and-white looks stood out, because one could imagine how the sleek tailoring, evening separates, crisp layered shirts and bow ties could fit into anyone’s world, even those who don’t want to go full Thom.
Launch Gallery: Thom Browne Resort 2025 Collection
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