Are Silicones Really That Bad for Your Hair? Trichologists Weigh In

Emily Kelleher
·5-min read
Getty Images

Getty Images

Stroll through any shampoo aisle and you'll see a refrain of "silicone-free" claims sprinkled across bottles. Though silicones are found in everything from shampoo to hairspray to moisturizer, many brands clearly pride themselves on excluding the ubiquitous compound from their ingredient list. What's less clear is why and whether it truly matters for your hair and scalp health.

Silicones have been used in hair care since the 1970s. For decades, they've delivered smoothing, shining, detangling, and anti-frizz effects that couldn't be replicated otherwise. But they aren't without side effects. And today, there are many more alternatives. Still, factors like hair type and scalp health will determine whether silicones are right for you. Here's what experts say about whether silicones are bad for your hair.



Meet Our Expert




What is silicone and how does it work in hair care?

Silicones are a class of synthetic compounds that are used in hair care to detangle, fight frizz, increase slip and shine, add sleekness, condition the hair, and protect the hair from heat, says Ron McLaughlin, a chemist who heads research and development for Living Proof, Inc. Depending on the type, silicones act as a barrier or film and smooth the hair cuticle. However, not all silicones are created equal. There are three classes of silicones, each with a different lifespan in the hair.

Types of Silicones

  • Non-soluble silicones create a long-lasting protective barrier around the hair that improves texture and adds shine. These silicones have an added element that is water resistant, making them difficult to wash out. They can only be removed with sulfates or clarifying shampoo and may cause build-up over time.

  • Soluble silicones wash out of the hair when water is applied. They help condition the hair and make it feel silky without leaving behind a heavy residue, says trichologist Penny James.

  • Evaporating silicones evaporate soon after they're used. Their effects are only temporary, and they leave a dry finish. These are the least likely to cause build-up.

Jeremy Moeller / Getty Images

Jeremy Moeller / Getty Images

How to determine if a product has silicones.

Though many hair care products are labeled "silicone-free, " the term is not regulated, says trichologist Sophia Emmanuel. "Consumers should always read labels to double-check."

Want to know whether your shampoo has silicones and what kind? McLaughlin says that ingredients that end in ‘-cone’, ‘-siloxane’, or ‘-conol’ are likely silicones. Emmanual suggests looking for the three most common silicones: dimethicone, amodimethicone, and clymethicone. She notes that both dimethicone and amodimethicone are non-soluble, while clymethicone is evaporative. "Water-soluble silicones have PEG in their names, such as PEG 12 Dimethicone."



InStyle Tip

To see if a product has silicones in it, look for ingredients that end in -cone, -siloxane or -conol.



Benefits

There's a reason silicones are used so widely. "Silicones are not always a bad thing. There are a lot of benefits to silicones in certain hair products," says celebrity hairstylist Glen “Coco” Oropeza. Here are some of the benefits you can expect.

  • Heat protection

  • Humidity control

  • Softens and smooths

  • Detangles

  • Fights frizz


Silicones make hair shinier and add extra slip, which helps with detangling. They can also "aid in keeping out environmental aggressors like humidity, " Oropeza says. They're best known for fighting frizz, but they're also "essential for protecting it from damage from heat styling," says Emmanuel, who recommends them, especially for those with fine hair.

Drawbacks

Silicones, particularly non-soluble ones, create a smooth and shiny film on top of the hair. While that creates a sleek texture in the short term, not allowing the hair to breathe can cause bigger problems in the long run.

"Non-soluble silicones can impact the hair and scalp by trapping dirt and oils, which can lead to irritation, an itchy scalp, and a coating on the hair that prevents conditioning agents from penetrating," Emmanuel says. Eventually, this buildup can make hair more frizzy, and worse. "Silicones on the scalp can lead to buildup and clog your follicles, leading to hair loss, especially if the silicones are not water soluble," Oropeza adds. "It can weigh down hair; for example, if you use it on curly hair, it can stretch or loosen your curl pattern."

If you regularly use products with silicones and find that your hair feels dirty even after you've washed it, that may be a sign you're dealing with silicone buildup, Oropeza says. Silicone buildup may also appear as a subtle white film on the hair. To address this buildup, use a clarifying shampoo.

Alternatives

"Traditionally, replicating the effects of silicone has been very challenging due to their distinctive properties. Recently, however, there have been advancements in silicone alternatives as the industry acknowledges that consumers are seeking silicone-free products," McLaughlin says.

All four experts recommend argon, coconut, and jojoba oils, which hydrate the hair and help it shine from within. Oropeza and Emmanuel both mentioned almond oil, and James added aloe vera (for its hydrating properties) and green tea extract (for its antioxidants) to the list.

The Takeaway

"I think it’s more about balancing silicone and non-silicone products. You want to ensure that you never overuse silicone products and that you clarify your hair every 2-3 weeks if you use silicones," Oropeza says.

While ingredients like argan oil can offer hydration and shine that mimics the texture achieved by silicones, you may want to opt for a silicone-based product to provide heat protection, especially if you have fine hair. When using silicone-based products, choosing those with only soluble and evaporating silicones will help you avoid build-up.

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