Tamara Ralph Couture’s Candy Colors for Spring 2025

Following the opening of her appointment-only couture salon in Paris, designer Tamara Ralph took a turn for the dramatic with a show under the Gothic arches of the American Cathedral, accompanied by a soloist on a grand piano. It’s the same location where Willy Chavarria made his highly praised Paris debut last week, to a much different tune.

For her fourth collection since returning to the Paris runways, Ralph maintained the florals and romantic gestures that have become her signature style. A grab bag of candy colors floated past in raspberry, lemon and pale pistachio, though the excessive shine and odd draping of the fabric rendered the looks all sugar but little substance.

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Despite her penchant for pastels, some of the strongest looks were monochrome. A slinky velvet gown with a laser-cut flower front was a visual stunner, while hand-strung pearls draped the curve of the body to good effect on many looks, including a skirt and velvet corset combo. A slinky white column with a tulip skirt had appealing architecture.

Ralph could use some restraint as lacquered floral jewelry overpowered some dresses and birdcage bodices felt misaligned. Craft and fit should be the focus here instead of the embellishment, while tonal looks didn’t quite gel. The billowing, off-the-shoulder capes that have been done more masterfully elsewhere fell flat, while big bows and berets added an “Emily in Paris” costume effect.

A showstopper of a silver beaded column will find its place on the red carpet, ditto a gold version with black velvet inlays at the waist and a coordinating train, as do many of the Monaco-based designer’s attention-getting looks.

Launch Gallery: Tamara Ralph Spring 2025 Couture

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