Yahoo Lifestyle How the ‘Studio 54 of Paris’ Gave Birth to One of the World’s Coolest Cologne Brands
If you were to rank all of the fragrance collections in the world, it would be hard not to put Les Bains Guerbois in the top five. With its no-miss lineup of 13 exquisite scents, it has quickly captivated perfume cognoscenti from Paris, where it’s based, to tastemaking locales across the world. And part of its charm and success is that each scent is an ode to its namesake building, a bathhouse turned nightclub turned hotel that has been earning a unique lore since it opened in 1885.
The property got its start as a thermal bath, Les Bains Douches, founded in the late 19th century by August Guerbois. From the beginning, it attracted a clientele with boldfaced names: Frequent guests included Marcel Proust, Claude Monet, and Émile Zola. Its original configuration boasted a pool and various saunas and steam rooms.
More from Robb Report
The World's Most Secretive Fragrance Brand Just Set up Shop in N.Y.C.
These Barrel-Aged Fragrances Treat Cologne Like Rare Whiskey
Though it managed to stay standing through two World Wars, its owner Maurice Marois transferred the lease a few times in the 1960s and ’70s. In 1978, its new tenants turned it into a nightclub, complete with renovations by a young Philippe Starck. Its opening party attracted revelers in the thousands, lured by its new concert hall, restaurant, and a robust lineup of musicians and performers. It quickly became a Parisian answer to Studio 54, and welcomed the likes of Bowie, Iman, Basquiat, Warhol, Gaultier, Jagger, and De Niro.
Les Bains evolved from discotheque to a New Wave stalwart in the ’80s, hosting banner acts like Joy Division and Depeche Mode, and onward to funk—a 1992 taping of Prince encapsulates that era, and on any given night you could spot a who’s who that included Linda Evangelista, Naomi Campbell, Madonna, Johnny Depp, and more. During this period, David Guetta served as LBD’s resident DJ.
The club shuttered in 2010, sat idle for five years, until Jean-Pierre Marois, the original owner’s son, opened the 39-key hotel that stands today, Le Bains Paris. There’s still a small club downstairs—and the original pool, though no longer functional, is still there—which still hosts stars such as Dua Lipa.
Every detail of the hotel itself is a nod to Les Bains’ history, from the checkered lobby floor worthy of a dance hall, to the in-suite hammams in many of the rooms. In spring 2024, Marois also opened a second post for the hotel: Les Bains Gardians, in the Camargue region, which took the brand’s unique aesthetic to the South of France.
Les Bains Guerbois, the fragrance collection, came to life in 2018. The name harkens back to the building’s first chapter and its founder, and its emblem Bacchus, the Roman god of wine and fertility. His bearded likeness was carved above the spa entrance in the 1800s, and greets hotel guests today.
Les Bains got its first scent in the form of a custom candle, called Atmosphere, which Marois commissioned master perfumer Dorothée Piot to concoct. It has a nuanced blend of spices, florals, woods and leather. The candle was so popular that three years later, in 2021, Marois launched the official fragrance line, Les Bains Guerbois, while committing to work exclusively with French noses, including Dominique Ropion, Bertrand Duchaufour, and Michel Almairic. Those four created all but two of LBG’s Historic Collection, called Une Date, Une Histoire” is the collection name. Each scent encapsulates a time and moment from the building’s past, such as its opening in 1885, or when Joy Division performed in 1979.
More recent scents, from the Those three noses have each crafted one scent from LBG’s growing “Formes & Matières” (Shapes & Materials) collection, are more tactile in nature, and reference specific locations in the property. Take 2023’s Raku, named after the hotel’s glazed ceramic bar and the Japanese lacquer technique that makes it shine. The best of this lineup, Damier, is an ode to the checkered floor that evolves from entrance to restaurant.
If you can’t physically go to Les Bains Guerbois, you should try one of its fragrances, which you can buy in the United States through Luckyscent. Below, five of our favorites from this storied lineup.
1979 New Wave EDP
Perfumer: Dominique Ropion
Notes: Spearmint, peppermint, aldehydes, orris, woods, musk
The story: December 18, 1979. Joy Division takes the stage at Les Bains Douches. You can hear the whole set here.
My take: There’s a reason we don’t see many mint-tinged scents out there, but when they’re good, they’re great. The aldehydic essence brings a cool, metallic intrigue. This one is special, and peerless in its field. You could wear it any day, night, or season. It’s the first one I had to own from the bunch. In a word, wow.
1978 Les Bains Douches EDP
Perfumer: Bertrand Duchaufour
Notes: Yuzu, whiskey, clary sage, heliotrope, myrrh, tobacco, cedar, patchouli
The story: The doors of the nightclub are open—but only those who can make it past storied bouncer Marie-Line will rub elbows with Jagger, Basquiat, and Iman.
My take: This feels like the most familiar scent—in a warming sense. It’s a year-round scent for the guy who’s here to have a good time, but it’ll work specially well at cocktail parties in the cooler months.
Damier EDP
Perfumer: Fanny Bal
Notes: Black pepper, aldehydes, milky accord, sandalwood, patchouli, white musk
The story: The black-and-white checkerboard floor of Les Bains Paris swims to life as it evolves from entrance to restaurant to bar, a nod to three key eras of the property (spa, club, hotel).
My take: Possibly the most perfect pepper expression I’ve encountered. I can’t stop talking about it. (“How good was that peppery one, Damier?”) But it isn’t just the pepper that punctuates; the milky accord and the white musk deliver smoothness and soundness. Like the floors that inspired it, Damier is a terrific balance of contrasts.
1885 Bains Sulfureux EDP
Perfumer: Dorothée Piot
Notes: Mandarin, rosemary, blackcurrant, balsam, benzoin, incense, tonka, and vanilla
The story: A legacy is born with the Turkish and Roman baths inside Les Bains Guerbois.
My take: This rousing and heady scent is ideal for colder seasons and cozy evenings. When I first encountered the brand in its 2018 infancy, it was my favorite of the launch trio. Now, I find its strength a bit polarizing for most everyday social situations. But when you really want to stir up a conversation, bathe yourself (lightly) in this broody masterpiece.
1900 L’Heure De Proust EDP
Perfumer: Jérome Epinette
Notes: Grapefruit, bergamot, blueberry, black tea, amber, praline, maté, vanilla
The story: Tea time with Proust and pals after a steam bath. Oh, to be a fly on the wall.
My take: While touring the hotel, I gathered that this one was among the maison’s favorites. And rightfully so: It is the perfect first impression, and ties into the tea room just off the hotel’s entrance. L’Heure De Proust is agreeable, conversational, and sophisticated, all in one.
Best of Robb Report
Sign up for RobbReports's Newsletter. For the latest news, follow us on Facebook, Twitter, and Instagram.
