Yahoo Lifestyle Shopping Time: 5 Amazing Patek Philippe Chronographs You Can Buy Right Now
We are always scouring the web for the most amazing watches currently available, and each Friday Shopping Time shares five standout timepieces with you.
It’s time to look at Patek Philippe from a different angle: their incredible history making chronographs. Though the brand is really well known for its subdued Calatravas as well as its world-famous Nautilus and, now, its controversial Cubitus (about which we’ve had some mixed reactions), some of Patek Philippe’s greatest watches are chronographs.
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Straight-up Patek chronographs from the 1940s remain some of the most balanced watch dials ever created, as the reference 1579 we’ve included will show you. So much was thoroughly sorted out design-wise by 1943 (when the 1579 was launched) that many consider that decade the golden era of wristwatches, and rightly so. But Patek did a good job of retaining that classic look in later models, as the reference 3970 and 5370 we’ve included show well.
And then there’s what we can only call the “later Patek vibe,” as represented by the 5960 and 5980. It may feel counterintuitive to think of Patek Philippe as a daring—even avant-garde—watch company, and yet there’s no denying the radical nature of these last two watches.
Let’s get straight to them.
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Patek Philippe 1579 Chronograph | $105,000
There is a deceivingly simple beauty to vintage Patek Philippe watches, with unique and thoughtful details coming together in an organic way. The result is watches that are more than the sum of their parts. The reference 1579 chronograph is a perfect example. First introduced in 1943, 2 years after the iconic 1915, this reference bears an era defining design that somehow feels as compelling in 2024 as it did in the ‘40s. This is a simple two register chronograph with a running seconds dial at 9 o’clock, and a 30 minute totalizer at 3 o’clock. The real power of this watch lies in the small details, from the typeface used for the scales, to the shape of the hands and hour markers, to the faceted spider lugs. Each has been designed with a deft eye toward proportionality within the 36mm rose gold case.
This reference 1579 comes to us from The Keystone, and features a design from midway through the production span in the 1950s, and its second series dial gets sans-serif Arabic numerals at 12 and 6 o’clock. Overall condition is fantastic considering its age, with an evenly colored dial showing very little signs of patina. This watch comes with an extract from Patek Philippe’s archives, verifying the production date. This watch represents the genesis of what many consider the greatest era of Patek watchmaking.
Patek Philippe 3970ER Perpetual Calendar Chronograph | $190,000
Patek Philippe’s lineage of perpetual calendar references is legendary, beginning with the ref. 1518, to the current ref. 5270. The ref. 3970 is a part of that unbroken lineage, succeeding the ref. 2499 in 1986. Hence, this is a watch responsible for bringing the design concept into the modern era. It would remain in production through 2004 through four distinct series of designs, each progressing further into modernity. As a result, the 3970 features a range of personalities throughout its lifespan, and this example from early in the second series is no exception.
This is a reference 3970ER (the E representing étanche, or waterproof, the R rose gold) from Wind Vintage, with 36 mm case. The 3970 uses the caliber 27-70 Q, which is a base Lemania 2310 (which also serves as the base of the caliber 321 found in the Omega Speedmaster). Overall condition is fantastic, with mostly untouched stepped lugs, and an evenly aged dial with leaf hands and applied bar hour markers. The watch comes with an extract from the Patek Philippe archives, confirming a 1990 manufacture date. This is a rare example of an incredibly important, and beautiful, perpetual calendar chronograph from Patek Philippe.
Patek Philippe Split-Seconds Chronograph ref. 5370 – $250,000
The reference 5370 is about as pure an expression of a modern split-seconds chronograph as you’ll find not only from Patek Philippe, but from anyone. Featuring an asymmetric, enamel dial with applied Breguet numerals, this reference is exceptionally beautiful before you even get to the immensely impressive mechanical components. Originally released in 2015, the 5370 wowed enthusiasts with a black enamel dial, and the brand’s own manually winding CHR 29-525 PS caliber. The movement was more than just easy on the eyes, boasting a number of mechanical innovations to keep operations running smoothly. The split-seconds can be activated via a button nested into the crown itself.
In 2020, Patek Philippe released this new deep blue dial to the 5370, effectively replacing the black dial. This example, which is listed by Analog Shift, uses a 41 mm platinum case in excellent overall condition, and comes as a full kit. The blue dial and view of the movement must be seen to be fully appreciated, making this one of Patek’s finest complicated references for fans of chronographs.
Patek Philippe ref. 5960/1A | $57,950
The Patek Philippe reference 5960 is an annual calendar chronograph that utilizes a unique, symmetrical design. This reference was introduced in 2006 and featured the brand’s first in-house chronograph movement. The brand was also the first to introduce an annual calendar complication in 1996, so this is a pairing and reference that means a great deal to Patek Philippe as we know it today. The 5960 has seen a range of configurations, from dial colors to materials, but all are built in a 40.5 mm frame. In 2014, Patek released the reference in steel, and on a brick road style bracelet, and even used a high contrast white with black accents dial. It was an unexpected, but certainly welcome move.
The 59601/A uses the caliber CH 28-520 IRM QA 24H, which sets the calendar functions along the top of the dial, each adjusted via pushers along the left side of the case. The timing functions are nested at 6 o’clock to keep things symmetrical. This reference was discontinued in 2017 after a rather short production run, making it all the more interesting in the long term. This example, from The 1916 Company, comes as a full kit and is in overall excellent condition with little signs of wear. This is a unique and important modern Patek Philippe, and prices likely haven’t caught up to that fact.
Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 5980/1R – $215,000
The Nautilus collection is surprisingly diverse beyond the fan favorite three-hander references like the 5711 (now 5811). This now iconic shape hosts a variety of complications, including a chronograph in the reference 5980. Like the 5960 above, this watch nests the timing function in a series of sub dials at 6 o’clock. The 5980 uses the automatic caliber CH 28 – 520 C, which also gets a flyback function, and is visible through an exhibition caseback. The pushers are unique here as they follow the design of the rest of the case, which uses an integrated bracelet, creating visual continuity throughout. This is a more substantial watch than we’re used to seeing in the Nautilus range, at 43.5 mm in diameter and 12.3 mm in thickness, but this is a statement piece as much as anything, especially when rendered in rose gold.
This ref. 5980/1R, which is available through European Watch Company, was retailed in 2024, and is in like new condition, as you might imagine. This is the full, maximalist expression of the Nautilus Chronograph, attached to a full rose gold bracelet. This watch comes as a full kit, though it’s worth noting the Patek’s 2 year warranty does not transfer to new owners in the US. Still, this is a rockstar example of Patek’s most coveted collections.
Please note that we are not affiliated with the sellers of the watches we recommend. We may point out aspects of a listing that we feel are positive, but only you can vet a seller. We can recommend viewing our video “How to Collect It: Vintage Watches” to glean some best practices, however.
