Yahoo Lifestyle RVDK Ronald Van Der Kemp Spring 2025 Couture Was All Thai-ed Up
Discovering a treasure trove of Thai textiles gave Ronald van der Kemp the inspiration for his collection, titled “Let the Sun Shine In” this season.
Out tumbled a brilliant parade of shapes and colors: emerald green, jungle grass, sunset gold and lotus pink, with the rich hues mixed in unexpected ways.
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A dandelion yellow silk velvet opera coat with embroidery followed a black beaded minidress with sleeves that arched out like wings, then a corset gown with serpents slithering up the bodice, before a draped silk gown that recalled the traditional Chakri silhouette.
The Dutch designer wanted to pay homage to the kingdom, and did so with subtle cues referencing Thailand’s traditional ornamental architecture.
Van der Kemp had already been experimenting with similar shapes, he said backstage after the show, and when he came across the textiles, it all came together. They were transformed into sky-sweeping shoulders, swirls on corsets, harem pants and quilted tusk accents. Elsewhere, intricate flora and fauna embroidery popped.
He also incorporated knit swatches, each of which were elevated from bit players in his textile play to a starring role through the creation of storyboards for each piece, stitched together then overlaid with embroidery. It added tactile intrigue to the collection that had an ample offering with cable-braided leather, stripes of silk jacquard, mousseline patchwork and upcycled python remnants, to name but a few.
The designer famously works only with vintage and found fabrics, the core tenet of his manifesto to reinvent the fashion system when he launched the RVDK house in 2014. “I always want to use things that people throw away and make them into something beautiful,” he said. Van der Kemp elevates this ethos through handicraft and artisanship.
His mastery at mixing textiles, silhouettes and eras, set against the lavish gold leaf decor of the Dutch Embassy, was all tied up in a visual feast.
Launch Gallery: RVDK Ronald Van Der Kemp Spring 2025 Couture
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