A Londoner in Lombok… A solo trip to this affordable-luxe hotel was life-affirming

As I wait on the dock at Padang Bai ferry port in east Bali to board one of the notoriously choppy rides to Lombok, I have a sinking feeling. It’s not because I am anticipating the sea sickness (the bucket of free tablets at check-in ensured I won’t be suffering). Nor is it an episode of the Bali belly everyone bar me had experienced on the group trip I’ve just been on for a week — somehow that has passed me by. No, it’s the fact I am about to spend three days alone.

I am an extrovert. This was confirmed by the fact that spending those seven days with 15 total strangers left me feeling uplifted and energised. So the idea of being alone for 72 hours — in spite of the gorgeous ocean-view villa that awaits me at The Oberoi Beach Resort — is enough to make me panic. Especially as, according to a Human Design reading (a form of pseudo science that tells you about your innate personality) at my retreat I feel “unsafe alone” and seek the company of others at all costs. Uh oh.

However, solo travel has gained pace rapidly among women my age in their mid-thirties, with Virtuoso’s recent trends report revealing that women now make up 71 per cent of those going it alone on a trip. The internet has even coined the term ‘me-moon’ for a luxury holiday on your own. Why should singles miss out on an indulgent break and self-care time? The trend suggests. And while the term ‘me-moon’ is another thing that’s nauseating to me; with a minimal itinerary ahead of me, I am intrigued by the idea of calling all of the shots on a trip. And a five-star holiday alone has the obvious Home Alone appeal.

After two wifi-less hours observing the waves lashing at my window I’m at Bangsal Harbour. And once my suitcase is thrown up onto dock from the boat by two stocky sailors, I step off, find my land legs and set about meeting my driver. And soon we’re on our way to the hotel, a speedy 10-minute drive away.

I get a quick taste of the landscape of Bali’s sleepier cousin (as Lombok is known) en route. A predominantly Muslim country it has imposing and pretty, jewel-coloured mosques lining the highways, punctuated by rice paddies, and misty mountain vistas at every turn.

After pulling into Lombok’s Oberoi outpost I am confronted with a breathtaking sea view of the private beach and an impressive infinity pool. Plus I’m served a ginger infused juice to settle my stomach (very welcome) and a few local sweet cakes (even more welcome).

I’m shown to my villa, which has a stunning private garden and pool behind stone walls. The thatched roof accommodation sits opposite a pair of enticing loungers and a cabana for dining; and there’s an ocean view from sliding doors inside, which lead to another patio. It’s basically my own fortress and with rooms from £250, it’s clear value is impressive in Lombok.

Inside, the room has a vaulted ceiling, there’s an epic four-poster canopy bed, plus two generous wardrobes and a bathroom to top most bathrooms. It’s all marble details, with a step-down bath which overlooks a mini garden and stone sculpture, and has his-n-hers sinks (or in my case mine-n-mine sinks). So obviously my first port of call is a candle-lit bubble bath. I feel very romanced by the hotel.

Then I take a dip in the pool, a wander around the manicured gardens and stop to grab a coconut at the dedicated stall amid the palm trees. Then before I know it, it’s dinnertime. Obviously I order room service a la Kevin McCallister and am served at the cabana when the waiter rings my doorbell. The menu is a mix of local dishes crafted with the freshest ingredients, as well as Indian classics, as the Oberoi’s original outpost is in north-central India. As with all service over the next few days, there is a sense of ceremony and zero waste or plastic: everything is unpacked from pretty Batak napkins and bamboo or woven baskets. I could get used to this, I think.

And I do over the next few days, whiling away hours with excursions to Tiu Kelep Waterfall, ordering snacks to my lounger overlooking the beach, eating as many roti wraps as I can handle, and sauntering around the grounds taking endless sunset snaps. While feeling particularly amorous after a Balinese massage (medium equals pretty firm, in case you’re wondering) and a calming foot bath with floating frangipani, I find myself sitting down on a swing at sunset, and with a flower behind my ear I’m compelled to take a selfie. Yes, I’m nauseated with myself, but when on your solo trip etc etc.

Though on day three my emergency situation prediction comes to fruition. After a few hours of snorkelling the Gili islands — spotting numerous tortoises, tropical fishes and the famous Gili Meno statue under the sea — I am walking on the beach, ecstatic and full of vitamin sea and D, only to feel like a brick has just hit my foot. It’s actually a huge lump of coral washed up in the surf. Yes, the ocean is biting back.

But back at the hotel, the friendly reception staff help me strap it up, and I head to the beach for BBQ night. As I hobble to my seat, a couple ask me to join them (not in that way… I don’t think). They are surprised to hear I’m here alone, but they’re interested to hear about my time. They have just extended their stay, they tell me excitedly. And I can see why. Although three days alone is probably enough for me (and my health) I feel revived, relaxed and in awe of how beautiful the island is.

Wandering around alone I’ve been able to really tune into soundtrack of the rustling palms, the meditative call to prayer and the lash of the surf against the beach, and feel truly at peace. Doing whatever I want has been a major bonus, too. And of course, if you want to look busy at any point and avoid well-intentioned strangers — there’s always your phone. As a wise man once said (ok, it was Mark from Peep Show): “You’re never alone if you’ve got a phone.”

After saying goodbye to the sweet staff, my four poster and the roti wraps, I am back on the boat to Bali’s east coast and sat beside an older woman. I notice she’s able to read in spite of the rollercoaster waves and compliment her skills. We strike up a conversation about our holidays and it turns out Helen loves solo trips. She is in her 70s and wanted to continue to see the world after her husband, and favourite travel companion, passed. “People can get in the way,” she says. “So you should do and see whatever suits you. My friends always ask after my next trips — they want an invite, but I like travelling alone.” Helen has me inspired — and if every solo break was like my visit to the Oberoi I’d do it every year.

Pavillion Garden View Rooms at the Oberoi Beach Resort, Lombok start from £250 including breakfast; and the Villa Ocean View with private pool starts from £404, including breakfast. oberoihotels.com