Yahoo Lifestyle Junichi Abe’s Kolor Swan Song Hits All the Right Notes
The Kolor show was shaded from the start, as guests were informed upon arrival that it was to be founder and creative director Junichi Abe’s last turn as head designer of the brand. The news cast a bittersweet buzz across the room.
To mark the moment, Abe explored the convergence of time with ancient and modern elements coexisting in one garment.
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There were hints of traditional Japanese dressing in decorated belts, cleverly tied obi-style to a bustle in the back with puffs of tulle. But a closer look revealed the beading was unraveling and the edges were frayed, as if they had been passed down through the years.
Other elements of age were evident as Abe played with classics and sent out the chunkiest of knits, on grandpa cardigans, collegiate V-neck vests, pullovers, scarves and mittens, layered with tailored trousers and suit jackets, or under T-shirts.
He had a field day with fluffy teddy texture, adding volume to looks with hoodies, workwear vests and waistcoats, and playfully sent out models in slippers made of the same material. The choice of indoor footwear added an air of cozy comfort to the collection, while each look maintained a balance of ease and elegance.
High-waisted trousers and blouson sleeves with lace drew the eye to his play on proportion, and he showed his deft mastery of outerwear with military coats or duffle coats with wood toggle buttons. Nylon puffers and a slim, quilted bomber were other key pieces.
Touches such as pearls messily draped around the collar of a coat, stones sewn into knits or gems on pockets added an element of decoration; elsewhere a pointed flat covered in colorful string added layers of subtle embellishment that didn’t overwhelm.
All of it was a powerful collection that demonstrated the tailoring chops and clever use of layering that have consistently made his brand a must-see. Abe will stay with the company as an adviser and brand reps said he will appoint a successor soon.
But for Abe’s last official runway show, his swan song hit all the right notes.
Launch Gallery: Kolor Fall 2025 Ready-to-Wear Collection
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