Didier Ludot Sale Nets Almost 700,000 Euros
PARIS — Leading fashion houses and foreign museums lined up to acquire pieces from French vintage expert Didier Ludot’s closing sale, which netted more than twice its presale estimate following a 10-hour auction.
The star of the Jan. 30 sale was a red satin and velvet cocktail outfit from Balenciaga’s fall 1958 haute couture collection, which achieved 40,960 euros, more than 10 times its presale estimate of 3,000 to 5,000 euros, auction house Bonhams Cornette de Saint Cyr said.
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It was one of 35 outfits from the wardrobe of Sarah Wolfe, a longtime U.S. client who decided to clear out her closet now that Ludot is shuttering his store at the Palais-Royal in Paris after 50 years in business.
The 384-lot sale, featuring exceptional 20th-century haute couture pieces by the likes of Christian Dior, Yves Saint Laurent, Chanel, Givenchy and Lanvin, made a total of 695,000 euros with 98 percent sold by lot. An online sale continues until Feb. 10.
“Many creations have been acquired by the heritage departments of major fashion houses and by foreign museums,” said Hubert Felbacq, director of the fashion and accessories department at Bonhams Cornette de Saint Cyr in Paris.
“Collectors, foundations and fashion professionals were there in a packed room or on the phone to outbid each other for these treasures,” he added.
Ludot, who has catered to celebrities including Nicole Kidman, Julia Roberts, Demi Moore, Kate Moss and Naomi Campbell, announced in December that he planned to retire.
“I no longer relate to the fashion scene,” he said at a preview of the auction, adding that the profile of his clientele has changed for the worse, in his opinion. “The women who buy now, especially young people, have no fashion culture.”
More than 2,000 people visited the exhibition showcasing the collection ahead of the sale, titled “Le Dernier Passage.”
Dior’s haute couture “Sévillane” evening dress in black Calais Chantilly lace from spring 1959 sold for 32,000 euros against an estimate of 5,000 to 7,000 euros, which was revised from the 4,000 to 6,000 euros initially indicated.
Meanwhile, a Saint Laurent haute couture gown from spring 1992 went under the hammer for 15,360 euros, versus an estimate of 2,000 to 3,000 euros.
Among the top 10 lots sold, four were from Dior, three from Balenciaga, two from Saint Laurent and one from Grès: a wedding dress and sheer coat from 1968.
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