Copenhagen travel guide: where to stay, what to do, what to eat
Travelling solo can be a little daunting, right? But I decided to do it after a recent break up, and there was only one place that sprung to mind that didn’t make me feel ill at ease when I thought about exploring alone – Copenhagen.
I’d visited briefly before, but had no money and my best friend and I didn’t organise ourselves well enough to make the most of the city, so we just walked around aimlessly in the day and then drank wine in the apartment at night, which let's face it, we could have done anywhere. So, this time I was determined to explore the city properly. I wanted to walk, bike, eat and shop, making the most of the fact that I was only worried about my own schedule.
Copenhagen is beautiful. The streets are clean and if you have ever spent time in central London, the city feels so beyond calm in comparison (there are literally eight times less people living there.) There is space to roam as you please. While the city isn't small, a long weekend is plenty of time to make the most of it.
A word on safety, too. Because when it comes to solo travel as a woman - and a Black women at that - feeling comfortable and secure isn't a given. I felt so safe in the city. People were respectful to me and walking alone at night, I truly didn't feel worried compared to some other European cities I have visited - although obviously not everyone's experiences are the same.
Where to stay
SP34
Remember when I said I had no money when I visited for the first time? Well, that was half true, and the other half is actually based on the fact that we spent so much money on accommodation, we basically had to eat in most evenings. While Copenhagen is cheerful, it's not cheap, so finding somewhere to stay can feel like a challenge.
I stayed at SP34, a modern, clean and affordable hotel on Sankt Peders Stræde in the Latin Quarter. While I’m sure you’ll want to experience the IYKYK parts of CPH (more of that later) the iconic Tivoli Gardens is a stone’s throw away, and you’re so close to the city centre if you need to pop into a high street shop for any essentials you forgot.
The best thing about this hotel though has to be their bar. It’s so buzzy and welcoming, whether you’re solo or with friends. It’s such a lovely atmosphere and you get two free drinking opportunities a day if you so wish.
Wine hour is between 5 - 6pm every day where you’ll be poured a complimentary glass (or two!) of a red or white and Night Cap is between 10 - 11pm where you can order a free a neat liquor pre-bed or pre-club, whatever vibe you’re on. The staff are so relaxed and helpful it was honestly a joy to stay here.
What to do
Bike
I wouldn’t be shocked if there was a 1:1 ration for people and bikes in this city. It’s such a bike-friendly city, even someone like me, who bikes infrequently in my own city, felt comfortable. The city isn’t as sprawling as London either so on a bike every area feels manageably reachable. If you have the app Bolt or Lime, you’ll be all set to rent an e-bike as there are docking stations everywhere.
Walk
On the first day, I walked the equivalent of 25 km according to my Oura Ring. Quite the achievement for someone that doesn’t make it to 10k steps every day at home. Copenhagen is made to walk. If you’re visiting October - Feb, wrap up warm, but don’t let the cold put you off. I visited in mid-October and it was so picturesque to walk along the canals.
Shop
If you like an independent or vintage find, you’ll love shopping in CPH. Here are a few places that both me and Lia, Cosmo’s Beauty Writer, love…
Time’s Up Vintage - Classic vintage shop with a selection for men and women and tons of retro jewellery. Krystalgade 4, 1172 Indre By, Denmark
Lot 29 - Small unisex boutique that spans across clothing and bath & body. Gothersgade 29, 1123 København, Denmark
The Wilde Shop - Super curated, bright vintage selection. Store Kongensgade 22, 1264 København K, Denmark
Wasteland - A big vintage shop selling unique, non-brand items. Studiestræde 19, 1455 København, Denmark
By Thiim Studio - A cute concept shop with art work, ceramics and jewellery. Larsbjørnsstræde 19, st tv, 1454 København K, Denmark
Exercise and Wellness
If you don’t feel live you've worked out enough with all the walking and cycling then I did a great Pilates class with Sofie who teaches at Pilates CPH. pilatescph.dk
Where to eat and drink
Above all, I had the best coffees in Copenhagen. The coffee shops and bakeries are elite and I could have happily just walked around with a coffee and some kind of baked good from sunrise to sunset.
Hart is a famous chain serving bread and coffee that locals still love, kinda like Gail’s, but the best cardamon roll I have ever had was from La Cabra. Honestly, I dream about it most weeks since returning home. On a rainy Sunday morning I walked over to Darcy’s Café and sat watching the world cycle by with an oat flat white. Perched outside under cover with a book I honestly felt so cosy and tranquil.
If the weather is a little brighter, head to La Banchina, a little café on the canal where you can take a dip if you want or just watch others and wonder how on earth they aren’t frozen. For brunch, I was recommended the harissa breakfast at Sonny in Frederiksberg.
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