Athens travel guide: How to get a city break and a beach resort holiday in one

athens travel guide
Athens travel guide: City break meets beach resort NurPhoto - Getty Images

There's no shortage of Greek islands to visit. Santorini, Kos, Paros and Skiathos to name just a few. But IMO, you can't go wrong with a visit to the mainland. Specifically, Greece's capital city. The beauty of Athens is it offers the best of both worlds – the buzz and business of a city break with breathtaking beaches just a short distance away.

Similarly, you can fill your itinerary with as much or as little as you like, with a multitude of things to do and sights to see to entertain everyone in your group. History buffs can tour ancient ruin sites, foodies will rejoice at the cuisine on offer and shoppers (guilty!) can spend hours exploring the flea markets and independent boutiques. If your agenda is entirely focused on getting some much-needed R&R, there are so many gorgeous beaches you can while away the entire day at. Just don't forget the SPF! With temperatures still in the 30s even in Autumn, you'll need it.

Where we stayed

To make the most of the stunning Athenian coastline, we spent three days in the heart of the city, staying at one of the many Airbnb rentals that populate the bustling streets, before travelling an hour south down the breathtaking Attica coastline to relax at the Grecotel Resort on Cape Sounio.

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With a large swimming pool *and* private beach, you’re spoiled for choice when it comes to sunning yourself. And that’s not even mentioning the option of booking a bungalow with your own private plunge pool if you’re feeling really boujiee. Either way, it's worth splurging on a room with views of the Temple of Poseidon – an ancient Greek temple dedicated to the God of the sea, the ruins of which are conveniently perched high up on the cliff top directly opposite the resort.

Where to eat

Grecotel itself has four on-site restaurants (plus a small convenience store in case you run out of suncream or want to enjoy some balcony beers), so there's no Groundhog Day notion of eating at the same buffet night after night leaving you longing to get back to reality.

Definitely make a booking at Yali. Located on a wooden deck at the very edge of the Aegean Sea, it's no wonder seafood is a speciality. The sound of waves lapping the shore is the perfect accompaniment to whatever you order from the Mediterranean menu.

In Athens itself, you can't move for tavernas claiming to serve the best souvlaki, but we're awarding the coveted title to Thanasis. You know it’s good souvlaki when even the locals head down on their lunch breaks. It boasts the friendliest servers, a super convenient location just a stone’s throw from the Agora architectural site and seriously the best chicken souvlaki, accompanied by a whole plate of tzatziki. I’m not ashamed to admit we ate here two days in a row for lunch, cursing ourselves when we did branch out and try a different taverna peddling “the best souvlaki.” Reader: it didn’t come close.

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Tucked down a quiet side street, seafood restaurant Atlantikos has taken over the pavements surrounding it, with locals and in-the-know tourists happily queuing for up to an hour to secure a sought-after table. We got there early (around 7pm) and had no issue getting seated, wasting no time ordering a calamari starter followed by shrimp spaghetti. It might not sound like the most Greek of main courses, but everything on the menu had an authentic flavour and was undoubtedly delicious. And all for insane value! Trust us, this is a must-stop for dinner.

Where to drink:

There's no shortage of rooftop bars in Athen if it's panoramic views of the Parthenon you're after. Which, isn't everyone? Whichever you pick, make sure to get there early and be prepared to wait – or make a booking well in advance. We checked out 360 Cocktailbar and thoroughly enjoyed the stylish decor and extensive menu. Obviously, golden hour is prime timing, watching the sunset over the temple ruins really is something.

When I asked friends and colleagues for recommendations ahead of my trip, Wine is Fine came up repeatedly. Specialising in carefully sourced, clean wine with low entrants it's the perfect spot for a pre or post-dinner drink. In short: great name, great wine. What more do you need?

What to do

The Acropolis. Duh! You can’t come to Athens and not see this amazing architectural site, perched high on the hilltop. Containing the remains of several ancient sites and buildings, the most famous of which is the Pantheon, the temple ruins really are a must-see for an insight into Greek history. Even those who don't class themselves as history buffs will be wowed by the stunning views of the modern-day city below and the number of great photo ops. If you’re not booking your tickets in advance, make sure to go first thing to avoid the crowds and the midday heat, as shade is hard to find.

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Come afternoon, your best bet is to start your descent and visit the Acropolis Museum which houses the archaeological findings found on the rock and surrounding slopes. If you're not yet exhausted and have a second day to spare, add the Ancient Agora of Athens to your sightseeing list. Operating once as the city centre, it contains some of the more intact temples which are astounding to see up close.

Even if you do want to stay in the heart of the city centre for the entirety of your trip, add the Temple of Poseidon to your sightseeing list. That is worth a visit south alone. Standing at the edge of a cliff surrounded by clear blue waters, this is the shot to put only our postcards to home. The site is open daily until sunset, and it's definitely worth going later in the day. The golden hour sun adds an extra element of magic.

If you actually want to get out on the sea, there is a cluster of islands close by that are accessed easily via a boat trip operating out of Athens. Aegina, Agistri, Poros and Hydra all offer authentic Greek fishing villages with swimming spots and tavernas aplenty, serving fresh fish literally caught on the doorstep. Moni Island is another option, inhabited only by deer, peacocks and turkeys should you want something a little more remote. Hire a scooter and explore the island of your choice for a fun day trip out.

Shopping

There are streets and streets of stalls and shops where vendors flog their souvenirs. From golden olive wreath headbands to phallic-shaped bottle openers, there’s no denying the fun in exploring what each has on offer. And, if you look hard enough, you’re sure to find a gem or two worthy of your holiday spending money.

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There are also plenty of more established boutiques and independent brands to peruse that would delight even the most dedicated of clothes horses. One such establishment is Galleria Amadoro, an Athenian-based jewellery brand that creates minimal, pared-back designs made for layering up and stacking in style.

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