Antonio Marras for Spring 2025 Travels From Sardinia to Hollywood and Acapulco — Postcards Included
Women from his beloved Sardinia are an endless source of inspiration for Antonio Marras. After looking to medieval Princess Eleonora d’Arborea last season, for his spring 2025 coed collection the designer turned to a less distant figure — actress Anna Maria Pierangeli, who’s also remembered for her doomed love story with James Dean.
The references to the ’50s were all there, starting with the band playing Elvis Presley tracks and dancers rocking and rolling at the center of the stage, while models paraded in retro bouffant hairdos and elephant trunk, gelled and combed-back hair.
The clothes reflected the era, but Marras applied his personal touch to the tight bodices and full skirts, embellished with some of his favorite motifs — florals and checks.
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He did include a new jacquard design of the Nuraghe, a centuries-old symbol of Sardinia, in bold ecru and black. However, the main patterns celebrated California, nodding to Hollywood, and Acapulco, where Pierangeli spent time with Dean — as seen in embellishments of tropical flowers, hibiscus and anthurium, palm trees and surfboards. Some looks had postcards from these locations as decoration.
A series of Bermuda shorts and jumpers were adorned with red motorcycle designs — a reference to Dean’s iconographic images.
Adding to the plethora of patterns on wraparound and slipdresses, loose shirts, summer shorts and jumpsuits, the decorations were often enriched with jet and sequins, bows and ruffles. The patchworks included animalier prints, too.
Praising Pierangeli’s “innate elegance,” Marras said backstage that he wanted to convey the duality of her life — her red carpet appearances with the couture-like evening gowns and her private moments, showing flowing and easy caftans.
The designer put a lot of research into the fabrics, with denim treated like leather and leather printed like a fabric, or knitwear looking like raffia. He also offered a series of dresses with bold fringing.
Marras’ talent for telling stories, imagining and projecting different worlds is undeniable — as are his design chops. Given the abundance of looks he showed, he appears to be in a stage of his career where he has fun with his day job and has grown increasingly confident in his skin.
But perhaps next season he should trim the number of looks shown in different color variations or styling so that the impact of his designs can be fully felt.
For more Milan spring 2025 reviews, click here.
Launch Gallery: Antonio Marras Spring 2025 Ready-To-Wear Collection
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