How New York's Meatpacking District grew up

There's a scene in Sex And The City when Carrie and her squad forge their way onto the rooftop pool at the private members' club, Soho House, to escape the New York heat, that's memorable for two reasons. Firstly: the ropey English accent Samantha Jones (Kim Cattrall) adopts when impersonating club member 'Annabelle Bronstein'. And secondly, because it put the Meatpacking District on the map as a pool-dipping, party-hopping place to be.

Twenty years later, one of Downtown Manhattan's most unique neighbourhoods, sandwiched between the West Village and Chelsea and overlooking the Hudson River, is still keeping people cool — although these days, it's attracting quite a different crowd.

Because while the Meatpacking District — named for its slaughterhouse origins in the late 1880s — will always be an iconic nightlife destination (who can forget the infamous elevator altercation between Solange and Jay-Z after they left the Boom Boom Room at the top of The Standard in 2014?) it has evolved into something a whole lot more sophisticated. You could say it's adulting.

From the luxury retailers (Gucci, Hermès, Brunello Cuccinelli and Rolex) setting up shop to the tech giants (Apple, Google and Samsung 837) making themselves at home, the Meatpacking District is now quite the hive of fashion and technology, as well as culture and food. Somewhere you'll be as happy people watching from a sidewalk cafe on the European-style cobbled streets — check out Kobrick Coffee (kobricks.com) day or night — as you would checking out the latest exhibition at The Whitney Museum of American Art ("The Whitney" whitney.org to locals).

Where to stay? Well, there is no greater emblem of the elegant transformation of this neighbourhood than The Gansevoort (rooms start from £269, gansevoorthotelgroup.com). Considered the original meatpacking hotel (opening its doors in 2004 at the height of the district's nightlife era), the 186-room property recently completed an impossibly chic four-year $40 million renovation.

It means every room in the hotel features 400-thread-count Egyptian cotton bed sheets, an innovative Lululemon Studio workout mirror and Alchemist bath amenities. And every guest has access to the revamped rooftop pool and the hotel's innovative new private members club, Seven24 Collective.

It’s a case of: come for the 45-foot pool with panoramic views of the Manhattan skyline, stay for the luxury lounge daybed — a two-hour rental includes a complimentary bottle of bubbles and a basket of essentials including SPF suncare, magazines and water. What's on the menu? Quite a lot, it turns out — there are four different dining spots on the premises to choose from.

On the rooftop itself, Eden is an indoor-outdoor oasis; a courtyard-inspired space surrounded by lush greenery. If it weren't for the NY hotel staples (think tuna tartare, lobster roll and truffle fries) on the menu, you'd be forgiven for thinking you were in Italy rather than the Big Apple.

Down on the ground floor, laid-back bistro, Chester, which boasts a similar menu, might not have the views but it sure has the vibes. This summer, both Chester and chic lobby cafe Coffee + Cocktails have collaborated with Veuve Clicquot on carefully curated dishes to mark Gansevoort’s 20th anniversary.

And if you like the sound of that, then definitely head to Saishin for bespoke sushi and sashimi tastings by Chef Joseph Liu alongside an extensive sake menu and various Japanese twists on classic cocktails (the Sake Margarita, with Nigori Sake and homemade green tea-infused syrup is a must). Even more thrilling, perhaps, is that this is the city's first rooftop omakase experience, with jaw-dropping views of the Empire State Building and One World Trade Center. And yes, we're still talking about the same hotel.

With this many eateries at your finger tips, it could be tempting to not bother leaving The Gansevoort at all. But that would mean missing out on nearby Pastis (pastisnyc.com). It’s another venue featured in Sex & The City when Carrie is dating 'the Russian'! Though circa the 2020s, the iconic French bistro, founded by Balthazar's Kevin McNally, has been revived and reopened in recent years; it's as chic as it always was, the burger and fries remains a must-have.

Want a more laid-back option? The equally well-loved Chelsea Market (chelseamarket.com) is a stone's throw away. A melting pot of diverse and delicious dining options from premier crêperie Bar Suzette to the don't-be-put-off-the-queue Los Tacos No. 1. Perfect before an evening walk on the High Line (thehighline.org).

Looking for something even more elevated? RH Rooftop (rh.com) is a designed-for-date-night restaurant at the top of the iconic 90,000-square-foot design gallery, Restoration Hardware. With chandeliers, trickling fountains and an all-glass elevator, it's quite a sight to behold. And that's before you've opened the menu.

Speaking of visual spectacles, it may have been The Whitney that first scored the Meatpacking District points in the art world when it opened in 2015, but that no doubt paved the way for the innovative Artechouse (artechouse.com). Currently showing are Ase: Afro Frequencies and Timeless Butterflies (until 2 September) — two vibrant, psychedelic experiences so immersive you'll find it hard to walk away.

While it's not technically a work of art, the whimsical Little Island (littleisland.org) could almost be classed as one. You don't need to be a landscape architect to appreciate how unique this little park which stands on 132 pot-shaped structures suspended above the Hudson River is. The jewel in the crown, of course, is a 687-seat outdoor amphitheatre — lit up nightly by live comedy, theatre and contemporary takes on classics (a radical retelling of Mozart's The Marriage of Figaro runs until 22 September).

Back at The Gansevoort, you'll find a selection of curated art works (from the street art of Banksy and Richard Hambleton to the music photography of Mick Rock) to rival a major gallery and a design-led penthouse created exclusively by the luxury Italian furniture brand Poliform, who have collaborated with designers all over the world to bring shoppable elements to the space.

But perhaps the real draw of visiting The Gansevoort in its refined and grown-up new era is the wealth of opportunity the members club opens up. Guests at the hotel get full access to opulent new areas that would otherwise be members' only. The highlight, undoubtedly, is Dimes — a Studio 54 inspired cocktail lounge with bowling lanes, a karaoke lounge, and a disco ball-lit dance floor.

Eat your heart out, Annabelle Bronstein. Maybe the party isn't over, after all.