Yahoo Lifestyle Ujoh Spring 2025 Was All About the Weather
Extreme weather in his native Japan over the summer got Mitsuru Nishizaki thinking. How could he use his distinct hand with pattern-making to propose something new with his tailoring for a world getting hotter each year?
The layered silhouettes he devised featured clever cutouts details; suit jackets had their sides cut out, allowing air to circulate, their bib-like fronts hanging free, eyelets and tabs of fabric helping fasten them under the shoulders, for instance, and adding further interest to the silhouette.
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Other blazers were cropped, positioned cape-like over the shoulders and styled with shirts, wrap skirts and pants in lightweight yet structured fabrics, some with outsized pockets evoking a utilitarian vibe. Classic gray, beige and black looks rubbed shoulders with sherbet orange, lilac and a pinstripe in the palest of yellows.
Nishizaki reduced organza shirts to a single transparent sleeve with a scarf attached, to be tied on over a shirt or jacket or under a T-shirt for a distinctive asymmetric look. Wide trousers had deep slits to their sides, accentuating movement like a cool breeze. A traditional Shibori tie-dye technique was used on a selection of intentionally creased satin pieces in shades that evoked a petrol spill on a wet pavement, while the season’s print featured a series of abstract geometric swirls.
New this season was a collaboration with sportswear brand Reebok, resulting in a capsule of reinterpreted shellsuits in a billowy textured technical fabric on jackets and skirts with drawstring details worn open over more formal pants. It was an evocation of Mishizaki’s love of vintage fashion and a coherent, appealing extension of his exploration of sportier shapes for the first time in his fall collection.
For more Paris spring 2025 reviews, click here.
Launch Gallery: Ujoh Spring 2025 Ready-to-Wear Collection
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