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The best ways to smooth and diminish wrinkles, according to doctors
No product will erase facial lines completely, but ingredients like retinol and peptides can help them look less severe.
No matter how much we wish to avoid them, developing wrinkles at some point is a fact of life. Fine lines and deeper furrows occur most frequently on our faces but they don't discriminate: Wrinkles can also be found on other areas of the body, like the chest and hands. Fun! Along with the natural skin thinning and loss of collagen that occurs as we age, wrinkles are caused by repetitive movement. They can be exacerbated by sun damage (even minimal unprotected exposure), smoking and a poor diet. Essentially, the less you care for your skin and body now, the more wizened you'll find yourself later.
Aside from major surgery, few skin care solutions annihilate wrinkles. But certain ingredients, products and lifestyle habits can help soften and smooth even a heavily-lined visage and lead to a more youthful appearance.
As a longtime beauty editor, over the years I've spoken with dozens of doctors and skin experts about the best ways to diminish wrinkles. I've compiled a list of their suggestions below. As with any quality skin care regimen, even the most stellar products and devices require consistency. Except where noted, plan for daily use to see real results.
Retinoids
While the ever-popular and buzzy retinol has become a darling of the skin care industry in the past few years, it's just one in an entire class of vitamin A compounds known as retinoids, which have been clinically proven to reduce the depth of fine lines and wrinkles.
"Retinoids promote faster cell turnover, meaning old, damaged skin cells are shed and replaced with new, healthier cells. This process smooths rough skin texture and minimizes fine lines," says Boston facial plastic surgeon Dr. Akshay Sanan. "Retinoids can also thicken the epidermis (the outermost skin layer), which results in smoother skin." Retinoids can repair skin damage caused by UV radiation by increasing collagen and neutralizing free radicals (unstable molecules that accelerate skin aging), adds Sanan.
And, though prescription-grade retinoids like Tretinoin are most widely used and studied, "there are many over-the-counter retinols that are effective in helping to reduce the appearance of wrinkles," says Beverly Hills dermatologist Dr. Ava Shamban. "Even in a low to moderate strength, retinol will increase collagen production and reduce the breakdown of existing collagen in our skin."
Good Molecules
Retinol and bakuchiol are key for any firming product, and this gentle cream — highly recommended by dermatologists — features both. The ingredients help increase collagen production, though bakuchiol is often touted as a natural alternative to retinol, as it has fewer side effects and tends to be less irritating.
Bakuchiol and retinol work well together — really well. In fact, research shows that bakuchiol can enhance the effectiveness of retinol while helping to stabilize it.
At .1% retinol concentration, and with the addition of high-quality skin-nourishing ingredients like grape seed oil, this $8 tube is a reliable alternative to far pricier options from luxury brands.
Retinaldehyde (also known as retinal, with an a) is the strongest retinoid you can buy over the counter. And, at .11% retinal concentration, this balanced, award-winning serum is 10 times more potent than retinol (with an o), delivering prescription-level skin-firming and smoothing without — according to reviewers — harsh irritation. I've been using this luxurious formula for the past six weeks and it's one of the few products that's made a noticeable difference in my fine lines. My skin is so soft, even my husband noticed.
Peptides
"Peptides work by signaling to your cells to make more collagen," says Kristin Gunn, celebrity esthetician and owner of Halcyon Skincare and Beaux Medspa in Austin, Texas. "Collagen is made of three polypeptide chains, and so by using certain peptides (short chains of amino acids) you will be a collagen-making machine!"
Sanan agrees: "Serums with matrixyl, copper peptides or growth factors can also help improve skin elasticity and reduce fine lines," he says.
The Inkey List
"A must have," raves one five-star reviewer of this formula, which helps skin appear plumper and firmer while reducing the appearance of wrinkles. "This is a game changer at an affordable price — the collagen makes my face more supple, absorbs quickly, hydrates and has no smell — don't let the size fool you. One drop covers your face!"
This popular brand's multi-peptide serums are clinically proven to level up skin's elasticity, smoothness and firmness at an affordable price. The copper peptides in this formula can help reduce inflammation, even tone and protect from harmful environmental stressors like free radical pollution.
Facial Massage and Exercises
If you're anything like me, your social media feeds are packed with videos exalting the benefits of facial massage, touting techniques like gua sha as "Botox alternatives" and consistent face exercises as a way to disappear neck lines, smile lines and even give the appearance of a full facelift. I usually scroll through these clips lightning fast and dismiss them as hooey, but according to Sanan, "techniques like jade rolling or facial yoga can improve circulation, tone facial muscles and give a temporarily lifted appearance."
There are loads of pricey treatments and potions meant to decrease facial puffiness, promote collagen growth and improve the texture of aging skin, but the ancient art of face rolling is the easiest, least expensive and arguably the most relaxing.
This high-quality tool set has over 27,000 five-star reviews and comes with a sturdy jade roller and gua sha plate.
Though largely an issue of personal preference, many makeup artists I've spoken with prefer battery-operated facial rollers like this one over quartz or jade as the vibration can help intensify the massage and limit roller time overall.
Collagen Supplements
"After age 40, you're losing 1% of your collagen production per year. And by menopause, women could be losing 25% of the collagen they make. The factory shuts down production by 25%!" says Los Angeles facial plastic surgeon Dr. Kay Durajai. "So we go from that springy, elastic, lovely 20, 30-year-old skin to a skin that's more thin, crepey, less padded and less resilient. And how do we fix that? Number one thing is give ourselves the building blocks and the tools to grow new collagen. So collagen peptides, the supplements that you can find everywhere over the counter, are huge."
According to Durairaj, when taken orally — in say, a powder — collagen can improve rough skin texture, smooth wrinkles and "tremendously" help maintain a more youthful appearance.
In fact, in a 2021 review and analysis of 19 studies on the impact of hydrolyzed collagen on skin aging, published in the International Journal of Dermatology, researchers found the supplements improved bone density, skin elasticity and skin resilience. "These studies were controlled research-oriented studies and they all showed benefits that were measured or quantified," Durairaj says.
Still, as with most treatments, don't expect results overnight: "These daily supplements can improve skin hydration and elasticity over time," says Sanan.
Sports Research
Durairaj cautions that not all collagen supplements are created equal and, in order to reap the full skin and health benefits, you should look for high-quality, hydrolyzed products. This popular flavorless version from Sports Research mixes easily in beverages, delivers 11 grams of collagen per serving and boasts more than 100,000 5-star Amazon reviews.
LED Light Therapy
You've probably seen those ghoulish-looking LED face masks and wondered if they actually do anything, especially since they carry such a high price tag. New research suggests we might want to put our skepticism aside: Recent clinical studies show that red LED light therapy can rejuvenate older skin by stimulating the production of collagen and elastin and, yes, softening fine lines and wrinkles. After nearly 10 months of testing last year, I can confidently say that, though the results were sometimes subtle, the best LED devices I tried delivered all of the above. "[LED light] therapy is non-invasive and leverages the natural healing and regenerative processes of the skin," says Dr. Melanie Palm, a board-certified dermatologist and cosmetic surgeon in San Diego.
As with almost every item featured in this story, staying on track is key. "With consistent use, at-home devices using red light therapy will promote collage production and reduce fine lines," says Sanan.
Want to boost collagen, even skin tone and diminish the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles? This beauty-editor-favorite Solawave wand is a more affordable way to try red light therapy than pricier LED face masks. In just 10 minutes this easy-to-use device uses noninvasive LEDs to help reduce signs of aging, redness and inflammation.
If I didn't already own Omnilux's Light Therapy Mask, I'd be picking it up right now. Within days of first using this product, my skin looked tighter, particularly around my cheekbones. Within six weeks, the wrinkles on my forehead appeared less deep and so did those around my mouth. My complexion was clearer overall. The results of this mask, when used consistently, were subtle but apparent — my pores were smaller, my face looked softer and my skin had a bit of a glow. My conclusion: With regular use (10 minutes per day, 4-5 times per week), the Omnilux mask works, which is why I named it best LED face mask of the year.
