Taste Test: This Underrated Jim Beam Brand Just Made One of the Label’s Best Bourbons
If you’re a bourbon fan, you’re probably well acquainted with the whiskeys in the Jim Beam Small Batch Collection: Booker’s, Basil Hayden, Knob Creek, and Baker’s. Actually, maybe not so much that last one, which for years has been sort of the under-appreciated, often overlooked member of that small whiskey family. However, in a sudden upset power move, the James B. Beam Distilling Co. just released the newest edition of the 13-year-old single barrel version of Baker’s, and it’s one of the distilery’s best releases in recent years.
Baker’s is named after Baker Beam, cousin of the venerated master distiller Booker Noe who created his namesake Booker’s Bourbon along with the rest of the Small Batch Collection, and really helped to resurrect Jim Beam at a time when people were more interested in drinking vodka than American whiskey. Baker’s first job, according to an interview posted on the brand’s website, was night watchman at the distillery when he was still in high school. He ultimately became a distiller in 1974, and retired in 1992 after nearly 40 years working in whiskey—the same year the Small Batch Collection launched.
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For decades, Baker’s was a seven-year-old bourbon bottled at 107 proof that came in a wine-style bottle in the style of Booker’s. The age and proof remains the same, but the core product was switched to a single barrel release in 2019, meaning that the whiskey in each bottle comes from one specific barrel instead of a blend of many. The bottle and label design were updated as well with a more modern look. That same year, a 13-year-old version of the bourbon was released as a limited-edition expression. Just a few weeks ago, that older Baker’s returned, albeit with an SRP of $150 that is about 50 bucks more expensive than it used to be.
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Single-barrel whiskey’s flavor will vary depending on the bottle and which barrel it came from, but overall there are some through lines. The sample I got to try of the new Baker’s 13 came from barrel number 000141315, if you’re interested in specifics, but really that doesn’t tell you much. The barrels that are selected for Baker’s are aged in different warehouses and levels within those warehouses, and Baker’s is said be distilled at a lower proof than other bourbons at Beam—both of which help to differentiate it from other expressions. And clearly there’s a focus on creating a unique Baker’s character, which comes across as you sip. This bourbon doesn’t taste like Knob Creek, Booker’s, or any of the other expressions. The signature Beam nutty grain flavor is present, but it’s softened with layers of milk and dark chocolate, espresso bean, dulce de leche, fig, and a backbone of smoky oak. At 107 proof, there’s some heat on the palate, but that minimal dilution also means extra flavor. Overall, this bourbon is delicious, and one well worth seeking out.
Maybe you’re a hardcore whiskey fan who already knew what a great bourbon Baker’s is. If that’s the case, bully for you. But if you’re someone who’s seen these bottles kicking around your local liquor store but haven’t felt compelled to pick one up, I get it, there are so many—perhaps too many—options to choose from. Baker’s is a Jim Beam brand that deserves its flowers, and while the core seven-year-old version is a dependable bourbon, this older expression is truly excellent. So at the risk of driving up the cost and reducing the availability, give Baker’s a try and help spread the word.
Score: 96
100 Worth trading your first born for
95 – 99 In the Pantheon: A trophy for the cabinet
90 – 94 Great: An excited nod from friends when you pour them a dram
85 – 89 Very Good: Delicious enough to buy, but not quite special enough to chase on the secondary market
80 – 84 Good: More of your everyday drinker, solid and reliable
Below 80 It’s alright: Honestly, we probably won’t waste your time and ours with this
Every week Jonah Flicker tastes the most buzzworthy and interesting whiskeys in the world. Check back each Friday for his latest review.
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