Yahoo Lifestyle Hyaluronic acid serums, explained by the experts
Hyaluronic acid serums have earned a permanent place in many a skincare routine, and for seemingly good reason: this natural humectant is marketed as being second to none when it comes to hydrating skin. But what exactly is hyaluronic acid, and how does it work? Here, the experts reveal everything you need to know, including the correct (and incorrect) ways to apply hyaluronic acid face serums and creams, and the products that harness its hydrating powers best.
What is hyaluronic acid?
HA is a sugar molecule and a natural humectant. It’s superior in terms of its ability to draw in water and hold it in the skin. "Hyaluronic acid is a naturally occurring substance in our skin and joints that decreases as we age," explains aesthetic doctor Dr Barbara Sturm. This accounts for the skin's tendency towards dryness as we get older. Although hyaluronic acid (HA) has 'acid' in its name, it has none of the exfoliating properties associated with other cosmetic acids.
How does hyaluronic acid work?
HA works to retain moisture in the skin thanks to its capacity to hold water (one gram of hyaluronic acid can hold six litres of H2O). That said, there has been some controversy around the actual merit HA has on skin hydration; sceptics wager that the HA molecules in skincare products are too large to penetrate the dermis, and that it needs to be delivered into the skin (via an advanced facial treatment such as microneedling or mesotherapy) if it is to be truly beneficial.
A-list facialist Dr Frances Prenna Jones is an advocate of the mesotherapy option. "Some facials use ultrasound waves to help HA absorb, but optimum penetration is achieved by directly injecting it into the dermis," she says.
What are the benefits of a hyaluronic acid serum?
It's worth keeping in mind that the skin is designed to keep external substances out: skincare included. So, no hyaluronic acid serum (or any face serum, for that matter) is going to work on the 'deepest levels of the dermis ' – no matter what the brand would like you to believe. However, that's not to say there isn't a place in your routine for a good hyaluronic product.
Regardless of how deeply your HA product can penetrate, "it is an important part of a daily beauty routine because even binding water to the surface of the skin keeps it moist and fresh," says Sturm.
Improving the water content in the skin strengthens its barrier, calms irritation and (temporarily) plumps out fine lines. "It also helps to repair inflammation, damage and environmental stress," she adds. "The immediate cosmetic effect is amazing too – it's wonderful under make-up." HA in its original state and molecular weight carries no risks of irritation (although you will, of course, need to consider how your product was formulated, and the other ingredients inside it).
Are all hyaluronic acids equal?
In its original state, a HA molecule is too large to penetrate the stratum corneum (the skin’s outermost layer), which is why the best hyaluronic acid serums use innovative formulation techniques to dissect the original molecule into shorter-chain derivatives that can penetrate to a certain extent.
In simple terms, low-weight (short-chain) HA is smaller, and therefore penetrates the skin to a deeper level, while the high-weight (long-chain) HA molecules are good for hydrating the surface of the skin. A product with multiple weights will work on multiple layers.
How to use hyaluronic acid correctly
Hyaluronic acid may sound like a catch-all skincare hero, but harnessing it correctly is a little more complex than many brands let on. Think of HA molecule as a sponge. Able to hold over 1000 times its weight in water, it’ll soak up moisture from anywhere possible. In a very humid environment, HA will pull moisture from the air – but when your environment lacks humidity, it’ll seek that moisture from the deeper layers of the skin, pulling it into the upper layers (where your skincare sits). If you haven’t ‘sealed in’ that skincare, the moisture pulled up by your HA will then evaporate, leaving your skin more thirsty than it was before.
The solution? Apply your HA to damp skin (cue the face mist) as this will ensure there’s enough water present for it to soak up. Next: always seal in your serum. By using a moisturising cream or oil on top of a hydrating HA product, you’re putting on the metaphorical lid, ensuring all that hydration stays within the skin, rather than escaping into the air.
The best hyaluronic acid skincare to try now
New innovations in skincare mean that today, there are many options when it comes to using this famed humectant topically. A hyaluronic acid serum remains a classic option – applied before your day cream and SPF, it'll soak into the skin, delivering day-long hydration benefits and a smooth surface for make-up to sit on top of.
However, hyaluronic acid is no longer solely reserved for serums and day creams. Face masks, targeted treatments and potent boosters are ideal for delivering an advanced hydration boost to thirsty skin – there's even a self-tanner that uses plumping HA to bolster your bronze.
Here, see my verdict on the very best hyaluronic acid products to try now...
The best hyaluronic acid serums, creams and treatments
Liquid Peptides™
There is a classic hyaluronic acid serum in Medik8's line-up (the Hydr8 B5), but I think you get more for your money with this supercharged big sister. It contains low-weight HA alongside several high-performing peptides, all of which boost the skin's own collagen production. Day or night, it's a fail-safe option for any and every skin type. (Don't sleep on the brand's cult retinoid products, either).
Hydrating Hyaluronic Acid Serum
Hyaluronic acid serums don't need to be expensive to be effective, as the ingredient itself isn't especially costly to source or tricky to formulate with. Cerave's affordable option won't solve your every skin concern, but it is a great hydrator that can be massaged in with abandon.
If you're oily, acne-prone or in any way nervous about introducing new products into your regime, try this one.
Phyto Corrective Essence Mist
If you're got sensitive skin, you've likely come across SkinCeuticals' relied-upon Phyto Corrective collection before. (Trust me: the original Phyto Corrective Gel can bring down redness like no other.)
Now, there's a soothing face mist to add to your anti-inflammatory line-up. More than a basic refreshing spritz, this thoughtfully formulated product combines hyaluronic acid with calming botanicals: think rosemary and cucumber. It'll take the heat out of reactive skin, bring down inflammation, and rehydrate your barrier. Use it both immediately after cleansing and throughout the day.
Supernatural Vitale Elixir
Emma Lewisham is one brand leading the way when it comes to combining organic ingredients with results-driven actives. This hydrating serum is as sensorial as it is satisfying, with a richly nourishing texture and uplifting botanical scent alongside powerful peptides that work to soften muscle contractions and dozens of moisture-boosting ingredients: including, of course, hyaluronic acid.
Hyaluronic Acid Eye Serum
A watery eye serum is ideal for anyone who finds eye creams too heavy (or is prone to milia). This brilliantly priced option contains a high concentration of hyaluronic acid, yet is lightweight enough to sink straight into delicate skin, leaving behind no sticky residue.
The rollerball applicator is a welcome addition on tired and puffy eyes, while the cooling texture will leave you feeling refreshed.
Algae Plump Serum
Most brands are pivoting to more sustainable practices these days, but this recently rebranded Margate favourite, formerly known as Haeckels, has been able to claim eco-friendly status since day one.
This gentle, lightweight serum features polysaccharides derived from the brand's hand-harvested local seaweed, which the brand claims can boost the hydrating properties of the hyaluronic acid by up to 300 per cent. Niacinamide also features, bringing barrier-supporting benefits. True to the brand's planet-friendly vision, the formula is produced using renewable energy, and the Vivomer packaging is compostable at home, biodegrading within one year.
HydraKate Recharging Serum
Kate Somerville's cooling gel formula is a refreshing tonic for dehydrated skin that feels tight and uncomfortable. A glycerin-heavy base means it softens even the thirstiest complexions with ease, making a brilliant base for make-up, or simply a deep-hydrating overnight treatment.
SkinCeuticals HA Intensifier Multi-Glycan
This new launch is a reformulation of SkinCeuticals' classic H.A Intensifier serum, now with a lighter texture to eliminate the stickiness some reported after application. More than a simple hydrator, it stimulates the skin's glycans, which leads to a stronger structural matrix: aka, better volume and faded fine lines.
Instant Perfection Serum
As the name suggests, this is one of those wonder products that makes you look instantly more awake after a single swift application. Hyaluronic acid is just one of the many moisture-magnet humectants, while the brand's signature Healing Concentrate, a blend of minerals traditionally found in Budapest's famed thermal waters, calms and reinvigorates skin in need of a pick-me-up.
Hyaluronic Serum
Yes, this one's a weightier investment than most, but Dr. Barbara Sturm's cult Hyaluronic Serum is a facialist favourite for good reason.
With a texture only slightly thicker than water, the formula absorbs instantly, delivering visible results as well as longer-term hydration benefits. Dr. Sturm's entire ethos is focused on reducing inflammation in the skin, so you know this serum will be calming and fortifying on all skin types.
To get the most out of it, apply to still-damp skin after cleansing, then seal in the moisture-boosting benefits with an occlusive cream or face oil. Even better, complete a mini facial pre-event with a pair of the brand's new Everything Eye Patches.
Super Glow Hyaluronic Self-Tan Serum
Even the most tan-averse should pay attention to this one: Tan-Luxe's excellent formula is really a hydrating serum first and a glow-booster second. The silky formula doesn't smell questionable or feel tacky as many face tanners do, but instead glides on to deliver plumping benefits that evolve into an even, supremely. natural-looking bronze.
Massage a few drops (two for a gentle glow, five for maximum impact) straight onto cleansed skin, then follow with your night cream to wake up with a bright, even complexion – and plumper cheeks.
The Face Mist
A face mist is a great way to introduce the humectant properties of hyaluronic acid into your routine: a couple of spritzes after cleansing and before moisturising will help sandwich an extra layer of hydration into skin.
This recent launch from Augustinus Bader promises much more than a moisture injection though: rosewater soothes, while polysaccharides protect from free radicals, and the brand's signature TFC8 complex feeds the skin, empowering it to do its best reparative work.
Minéral 89 Hyaluronic Acid Hydrating Serum
This is a great daily hyaluronic acid serum for anyone who simply wants to boost moisture content and keep reaction-prone skin calm and content.
The minimal ingredients list is boosted with the brand's signature spring water, which is rich in fortifying minerals, and glycerin to amplify the humectant properties.
Anyone especially prone to redness or acne should try the Probiotic Fractions version, which is supercharged with niacinamide and probiotics.
Intense Hydrating Booster
From facialist Sarah Champan's beloved namesake brand, this hyaluronic-powered serum works brilliantly to plump and smooth dry, dehydrated skin. The rosewater base delivers soothing benefits (and a lovely scent), while the hyaluronic acid is cocktailed with barrier-boosting prebiotics to keep your complexion calm and balanced.
The Body Retinol
If you're diligent with a multi-step facial skincare routine but neglecting anything further south, you're really missing a trick. Necessaire's potent body treatment contains three hero ingredients – retinol, alpha-hydroxy-acids and hyaluronic acid – to resurface and rehydrate beyond the neckline. Expect a brighter décolletage, softer elbows, and even a reduction in body breakouts and stretch marks.
Perfect Canvas Smooth, Prep & Plump Essence
Much more than a simple hydrator, REN's refreshingly light serum works to hydrate, soothe and strengthen skin with regular use. Hyaluronic acid is partnered with another power humectant, polyglutamic acid, while fermented extracts feed the skin's microbiome.
It's a great one to apply before make-up, and the 100ml bottle will last for months, so you can slather it on with abandon.
SOS Revitalising Mask
One to save for special occasions, Decree's sheet mask truly delivers when it comes to an instant glow. The 100 per cent coconut-fibre mask is soaked in a combination of hyaluronic acid, pore-refining niacinamide, brightening liquorice root and calming rosewater. Apply to dry skin and relax for at-least 15 minutes to ensure maximum results.
What's more, this is perhaps the most plant-conscious sheet mask out there, combining a biodegradable mask with coconut-derived paper packaging.
Rose Deep Hydration Sleeping Mask
It's true that most hyaluronic-acid based products are marketed from a clinical, fun-free angle, but if you prefer your skincare to have sensorial appeal, there are options on the table. Our top recommendation would be this intensive overnight mask from Fresh: the brand that does rose-based skincare better than anyone else.
The dual-phase product combines a humectant gel formula (rich in damask rose extracts and hyaluronic acid) alongside an emollient cream with which to lock in all the moisture.
Hyalu B5 Aquagel SPF30
This member of La Roche-Posay's Hyalu family has an especially interesting formulation, combining the humectant benefits of hyaluronic acid with broad-spectrum SPF and protective antioxidants.
It's a milky water-gel hybrid that feels cooling on skin, and acts as a multitasking day treatment for all skin types (although the sensitive and acne-prone should snap it straight up).
Moisturizing Renewal Hydrogel
Révive's hydrating serum is a saviour for skin that's feeling dry, dehydrated or even a little flaky, which likely sounds familiar given the sudden change in temperature. It employs four different weights of hyaluronic acid for multi-level hydration, as well as a soothing cocktail of aloe vera, cucumber and chamomile to bring down any irritation. Skin-identical proteins feed the skin barrier, while lavender oil calms and soothes. It's gentle, yet highly effective.
Peptide Plump™ Line Filling Bounce Serum
Strivectin's offering is designed to plump dry, dehydrated skin, minimising the appearance of crinkly surface-level lines. It uses low-weight hyaluronic acid for that instant plumping effect, and advanced peptides for long-term satisfaction: these smart 'cell communicators' encourage optimal production of collagen and elastic within the skin.
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