Review: Margan Restaurant

I love dining out. I can’t deny it. If I could eat out at quality restaurants every night I would. In fact I try to, cooking maybe once a week at best. But, this presents a conundrum when you have tried so many restaurants, they can at times blur into one, and it takes an absolute stand out experience to remain memorable. I’ve had a few of those in my travels, and in my hometown of Sydney.

So what makes a standout experience?

I recently visited the vineyards in NSW’s premiere wine country, the Hunter Valley, for a quick break from Sydney to sample the best wine and food the region has to offer. And it was here that it happened… a standout!

Nestled amongst the vineyards of Broke lies Margan restaurant, resplendent in its simplicity, it delivers an immediate calm with the stars your only guide to the rolling hills surrounding the property.

The property is owned by Andrew Margan who also serves as winemaker and vigneron for the estate, with his wife Lisa Margan running the restaurant which adds to the intimacy of the contained dining room. Their personal touch is inviting and ensures you feel right at home from the moment you enter.

Whilst the setting is divine, it’s the food that really delivers the standout experience. Inspired by the Mediterranean, chef Josh Davidson creates flavourful dishes where 90% of the produce is sourced on the property in Margan’s one acre kitchen garden. We are told that the produce is ‘picked to order’, a detail which is evident in the freshness and seasonality of the menu.

We sampled tasting plates of succulent quail saltimbocca and grilled harissa prawns with sweet and spicy green tomato marmalade. And then there was the dish I would return for over and over again – the puree of sweet corn with scallop & prawn agnolotti & piquillo pepper – quite possibly one of the tastiest and satisfying dishes I’ve ever eaten – big call, I know, but it was simply divine.

For mains, the swordfish risotto with preserved lemon looked as pretty as a picture with the thinnest shavings of swordfish carpaccio perfectly positioned atop of creamy but sharp rice, a wonderful pairing. The spiced duck breast with faro and mustard cherries was a delightfully fragrant ensemble and perfect for sharing.

After such a flavourfest we pondered whether to eat dessert or not to eat dessert. Thankfully, we ordered the Chocolate Marquise and it did not disappoint. The Italian meringue was both tart and sweet paired with a crumble of caramel salty hazelnuts you wish you could buy by the bag full! A tasty end to a spectacular fresh and seasonal meal; it’s little wonder that Margan won the 2011 Good Food Guide Sustainability Award.

For your own Margan experience, visit: http://www.margan.com.au

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