Real Brides, Megawatt Craft at Wiederhoeft’s Spring 2025 Runway Show
“We actually were not going to show this year. We were going to skip the season and focus on production, especially as we’re getting into wholesale,” Jackson Wiederhoeft told WWD leading up to NYFW, noting his fantastical brand’s fall collection will soon be launching on Net-a-porter. But the designer did indeed stage a runway show (to much delight) thanks to help from sponsors Capital One and Michelin (transforming his runway space into an intimate dinner with New York eatery Hags post-show).
He opened the show with dancers clad in “simple black looks,” as well as a remarkable lace-up, “eroded” boned corset look covered in mother-of-pearl shell embroideries and cascading tulle plumes that swished and clanked around the shadowy room throughout the performance. It made way to his lineup that embraced intriguing new materials — utilizing small pink rocks, raffia and more shells to decorate his beautiful designs.
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Many boasted a corset, which has become his signature, as seen in a strict new strapless Julia silhouette in silvery-gray; cut in terry or fully bugle-beaded in pink on a shimmering gown, worn with tassel accessory — a nod to the home category he plans to launch next year, to name a few. The lineup also extended into embroidered boxers shorts; sexy lace lingerie-esque numbers, a trompe l’oeil “shadowgate” dress (said to be inspired, among others, by the ‘40s drama “Black Narcissus”) and a strong assortment of his sought-after bridalwear, like a show-stopping, ornate ivory corset gown covered in rosette, barnacle and crystal drop hand-embroideries.
Then came the brides — 26 of them clad in 26 sizes of his matching white Wasp corset, pencil skirt and veil — in a powerful, celebratory display of inclusive sizing.
Over the last few months Wiederhoeft has been focusing on a corset sizing program to make them accessible. A “math girl summer,” he said of working to expand his signature Wasp silhouette from size double zero through 30, with four sub-sizes (classic, classic curve, petite and petite curve) — 68 sizes total, each with 28 metal bones.
“I want everyone to be able to look into that crowd and see someone who looks like them,” he said.
Launch Gallery: Wiederhoeft Spring 2025 Ready-to-Wear Collection
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