Yahoo Lifestyle Meet the Under-the-Radar Brunello Producer Elevating Single-Vineyard Sangiovese
While even the most famous Brunello di Montalcino wines are cuvees from a variety of estate vineyards, one producer in the region, Cortonesi, focuses entirely on single vineyard expressions of both Brunello and Rosso di Montalcino. Thanks to third-generation winemaker Tommaso Cortonesi, who decided to elevate the quality of his family’s wine, the producer is dedicated exclusively to the cultivation of single-vineyard wines with a focus on two of the most revered locations in Montalcino, La Mannella in the northwest and Poggiarelli in the southwest. These sites offer unique terroir that showcases the best of Sangiovese in different ways.
Residing on hillside slopes and gently rolling valleys surrounding the stately medieval village of Montalcino, vineyards in the Brunello di Montalcino DOCG are home to a clone of Sangiovese known locally as Brunello, which is a diminutive of the Italian word for brown. Long considered the pinnacle of Sangiovese, the appellation received DOC status in 1968 and became Italy’s first DOCG, the highest regional designation, in 1980. The Cortonesi family established the La Manella vineyard in the ‘70s, with a total of 138 acres in one of the best parts of Montalcino, with only 19 of those acres devoted to cultivating first rate Brunello grapes. They started selling their wine commercially in 1985, and the first vintage of Cortonesi Brunello di Montalcino was from the 1990 harvest.
More from Robb Report
Tommaso Cortonesi made the choice to focus on single-vineyard expressions of Brunello di Montalcino and Rosso di Montalcino “because they provide a pure representation of the Montalcino terroir.” Home to 5,200 acres of grapes, Montalcino is a large municipality with diverse microclimates. “Even within small vineyard plots, there are varying soil types that contribute to the individuality of the wines,” Cortonesi explains. “By crafting single-vineyard expressions, we allow consumers to experience the distinct personality of each wine.” In vintages prior to 2012, Cortonesi produced a blended Brunello di Montalcino sourced from the family’s two vineyards, with 80 percent coming from La Mannella and 20 percent from the Poggiarelli plot. “Since the 2012 harvest, I decided to focus exclusively on producing single-vineyard wines,” Cortonesi tells Robb Report.
Experts concur that Brunello is the ultimate expression of Sangiovese. “Sangiovese in Montalcino benefits from an ideal microclimate, giving it a great propensity for aging,” Cortonesi says. “The wines retain the freshness and acidity that are essential for their longevity.” He points to how well structured the wines are on release coupled with the complexity they maintain as they evolve as the characteristics that set them apart from Sangiovese grown elsewhere in Tuscany.
Cortonesi Brunello di Montalcino Poggiarelli, comes from a Grand Cru single vineyard in the heart of Montalcino of less than five acres. “Poggiarelli vineyard imparts incredible power and complexity,” Cortonesi says. “It produces a wine bursting with red fruit, delivering a rich, enveloping mouthfeel that is both balanced and deep.” On the other hand, he tells us that La Mannella “brings a pure expression of elegance, finesse, and freshness to the grapes. The result is a wine with an intriguing and complex bouquet that continuously evolves in the glass and never fails to impress.” While Poggiarelli is a warm site on the southeast side of the town with rocky and sandy soils, La Manella is from one of the coolest growing areas in the region, which has a combination of rocky clay and sandy soil. The current release of both Brunellos, 2019, is from what is considered a near-perfect and historic vintage noted for its acidity and freshness.
Cortonesi 2019 La Manella Brunello di Montalcino has aromas of purple plum, blackberry, clove, and a hint of earthiness. Bold dark fruit flavors continue on the palate, joined by elegant tannins, well-integrated acidity, and flavors of nutmeg, dried thyme and sage, and a soft splash of pomegranate in the enduring finish. Cortonesi 2019 Poggiarelli Brunello di Montalcino has a bouquet of black cherry, saddle leather, and freshly shaved black truffle. It is bright at first sip, with brilliant acidity that is tempered by plush tannins. Ripe red cherry, raspberry, eucalyptus, and juniper berry flavors ply the palate and wind down to leave a silky, satisfying feeling in the mouth. There’s only one way to discover which you like best: Open them side by side and compare.
Best of Robb Report
Why a Heritage Turkey Is the Best Thanksgiving Bird—and How to Get One
The 10 Best Wines to Pair With Steak, From Cabernet to Malbec
Sign up for RobbReports's Newsletter. For the latest news, follow us on Facebook, Twitter, and Instagram.
