Yahoo Lifestyle Mature skin needs a dedicated moisturiser – here's how to pick the best one for you
From exercise to sleep, the body's needs change as we age, and our skin is no exception. As we accumulate wisdom, we divest our skin’s natural in-built hydrators such as hyaluronic acid and ceramides, while plumping collagen also goes into decline (“women are expected to lose 30 per cent of the skin’s collagen in the first five years after menopause,” says the cosmetic dermatologist Dr Stefanie Williams). If this sounds like terrible tidings, be reassured that there are infinite ways to replenish these key ingredients, beginning with a staple cornerstone of any skincare routine; your moisturiser.
What’s the best skincare routine for mature skin?
Skin cell turnover slows as we get older, so speeding it up with regular exfoliation post-cleansing maximises the moisturising potential of any products you apply afterwards. AHA and BHA chemical exfoliants are highly effective, but if you find that your skin is tight or sore after using them, Dr Williams advocates a gentler approach. “While some mature-skinned women are completely fine when using AHAs, others may find them too strong at this time of their life. If that’s the case, consider switching from AHAs to PHAs (polyhydroxy acids) such as gluconolactone and lactobionic acid, as PHAs are less irritating than AHAs (plus, they can hold more water than AHAs).”
Collagen-stimulating skincare actives such as retinol, vitamin C and peptides take on even more importance as we age, and tapping into their smoothing, firming and brightening powers regularly by way of a well-formulated moisturiser can help skin to “bank as much collagen as it possibly can in the face of rollercoaster hormonal changes during the menopause,” according to Dr Williams. As well as boosting collagen reserves, the likes of retinol and vitamin C are potent antioxidants, helping to defend skin against external aggressors such as UV damage and pollution that accelerate skin ageing. Speaking of protection, if you’re not layering a separate sunscreen over your face cream during the day, you’ll need a moisturiser with broad-spectrum SPF to shield skin from DNA damage and protect against cancer, as well as keeping age-related skin issues such as fine lines and hyperpigmentation at bay.
How do you keep mature skin moisturised?
If your skin seems to be becoming more parched, you’re likely not imagining it. “In youth, abundant natural oils keep skin supple, but with time, sebaceous glands become less active, leading to potentially increased dryness” says Dr Williams. Your skin barrier can bear the brunt at this time of life, too. “Epidermal barrier function may become more vulnerable, making skin thinner and more prone to water loss,” adds Dr Williams.
Look to lipids such as squalane and moisture-binding ingredients like hyaluronic acid to keep skin dewy and comfortable. On the latter point, the perfect moisturiser for mature skin will contain hyaluronic acid at different weights; “low molecular weight hyaluronic acid is absorbed deeper, while high molecular weight hyaluronic acid sits more on top of the skin, protecting its barrier,” says the aesthetic specialist Dr Wassim Taktouk.
Does mature skin always need moisturiser?
Yes, but it’s a myth that your moisturiser needs to become richer by default. “While some might need to switch to heavier formulas, this isn’t the case if you’re experiencing adult acne or rosacea,” explains Dr Williams. “Overloading skin with very lipid-rich products could trigger more inflammatory rosacea or acne lesions, so it’s best to stick to lightweight skincare products low in not only oils and lipids but also silicone derivatives such as dimethicone and cyclomethicone.” Dr Williams advises opting for moisturisers containing calming and soothing ingredients and non-oily water-attracting actives such as hyaluronic acid.
The best moisturisers for mature skin
A well-formulated face cream shouldn’t simply replace what’s lacking; the best will support your skin’s unique needs and work in synergy with any serums applied underneath, strengthening the skin barrier so that beneficial actives can do their finest work.
Discover the moisturisers that make mature skin glow, below.
Age Interrupter Advanced Cream
This cult firming cream was recently reformulated with 20 per cent more Proxylane, a sugar-derived molecule that stimulates collagen production, as well as the catchily named glycyrrhetinic acid, which has an anti-inflammatory, soothing effect and helps to combat UVB damage in particular. Niacinamide works to brighten skin and enhances the cream’s moisturising powers. It’s on the rich side, so best for dry skin.
Retinol + HPR Ceramide Rapid Skin-Renewing Water Cream
A cloud-like, cooling retinol moisturiser that made one perimenopausal Bazaar editor’s skin far springier over the course of a few months, with none of the flaking or redness often associated with retinoids.
Combining retinol with HPR (also known as granactive retinol) helps to mitigate any retinol-related side-effects, while ceramides, hyaluronic acid and calming bisabolol provide instant hydration. A peptide complex adds to its firming potential. If you’re seeking a ‘one and done’ moisturiser for mature skin (minus SPF), this is a strong candidate.
£75.00 at elizabetharden.co.uk
Facial Moisturising Lotion
No-frills, but no less brilliant for it, this night cream is just the thing for mature skin that’s sensitive; a trio of ceramides bolsters the skin barrier, niacinamide supports the skin’s own ceramide production and hyaluronic acid helps to prevent moisture loss.
Reach for it if your skin’s feeling irritated after using more potent skincare actives or make it your daily staple. There’s no need to limit its use to ‘PM’ as the name implies, just top it with a lightweight sunscreen if you’re wearing it during the day.
The Light Moisturiser
A luxurious yet lightweight face cream that brings a lot to your dressing table, namely collagen-boosting gold peptides and bio-identical (read, easily absorbed) collagen that’s clinically proven to improve skin elasticity.
There’s multimolecular hyaluronic acid for immediate plumping and a moisture hit, and slow-release antioxidant microalgae, which has been shown to reduce pigment formation in the skin (handy if you’re looking to target hyperpigmentation). There’s a rich version to cater for dry skin, too.
The Dewy Skin Cream
The purple pot isn’t simply striking; it’s indicative of the high levels of purple rice extract in this silky face cream. Like blueberries, red grapes and other dark hued plants, it’s ultra-high in antioxidant flavonoids which make skin more resilient to environmental stressors, thus helping to conserve your skin's natural collagen, hyaluronic acid and elastin levels.
Japanese algae provide a moisture top-up and the cream's smoothing effect is instant, making it the perfect canvas for make-up with no risk of pilling. The golden spoon in the lid is possibly superfluous although it does convey extra benefits on the hygiene front.
The Active Hydrator
Created and formulated by Dr Williams to meet the needs of mature skin that’s acne- and rosacea-prone, this fluid moisturiser is a marvel if you’re dealing with breakouts and redness but also fine lines and a loss of volume.
It contains a tailored complex of 13 key actives to serve the complexion from all angles, including n-acetyl glucosamine (NAG) to soothe and kick-start your skin’s own hyaluronic acid production, and PHAs to brighten and clarify. Don’t be fooled by the watery texture; it’s more potent than it seems, and one Bazaar editor has noticed a real difference since using it to treat and hydrate her skin during papulopustular rosacea flare-ups.
Youthbomb Breakthrough Repair Cream
A middleweight (not too light, not too heavy) moisturiser containing a clever cocktail of firming, radiance-inducing peptides alongside bakuchiol, a plant extract that switches on the same receptors as retinol in the skin, without the risk of adverse reactions.
Polyglutamic acid attracts water to skin and keeps it there for the foreseeable, and niacinamide is a nice touch for radiance in the long-term. ‘Youthbomb’ is hyperbolic, but we’ve seen it plump out fine lines with consistent use.
Pro-Collagen Night Cream Moisturiser
Perhaps the most iconic moisturiser for mature skin in our line-up, this night cream capitalises on the emollient, antioxidant properties of algae to make skin more supple as you sleep.
Avocado and sesame oil quench skin with lipids, so it’s best for dry and dehydrated complexions, and for a formula on the heavy side it sinks in beautifully, The oceanic scent is unmistakable to its fans, but its fragrant qualities could be off-putting to some and mean it’s best swerved if you’ve got sensitive skin.
Night Hack
The newest launch from 456 Skin, a specialist brand for darker skin tones, puts some of the most common needs of melanin-rich skin first – namely dehydration and hyperpigmentation. Skin tones 4-6 on the Fitzpatrick skin phototype (light brown to Black) have a denser stratum corneum (the outermost layer of the skin) and fewer natural ceramides, so often require more nourishment than lighter skin.
Darker skin is also more prone to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, so targeted ingredients such as tranexamic acid are helpful for regulating melanin production. This powerhouse night cream contains both ceramide-stimulating fatty acids and tranexamic acid, alongside brightening antioxidant vitamin C and an antimicrobial peptide to both firm skin and combat adult acne.
Moisturiser-in-an-SPF
Gentle enough to use around the eyes, this fragrance-free SPF 50 sunscreen makes for an excellent multi-tasking daily staple. As well as a peptide blend to address skin laxity, a natural retinol alternative sourced from mastic gum increases the skin’s own retinoic acid production, which boosts density and elasticity. Ectoin is a considered addition too; “clinical evidence shows that it improves hydration, strengthens the skin barrier and reduces fine lines while being incredibly soothing and gentle on the skin,” says the consultant dermatologist Dr Malvina Cunningham.
The cream absorbs quickly, so make sure you apply enough to ensure full coverage; take it right to the tips of your ears and down to the décolletage.
You Might Also Like
