marie claire's Insider's Guide To Puglia, Italy

The town of Vieste in the Puglia region of southern Italy juts out dramatically into the Adriatic Sea. Inset: charming conicalroofed trulli houses, unique to the region, line the cobbled streets in the village of Alberobello. Photo: Getty Images

Summering Italians have holidayed in Puglia for generations – weathered grandparents, bikini-clad mothers and their offspring, drawn to its golden sands, 800km of shimmering blue Adriatic coastline, enchanting towns, quilt-like vineyards and verdant olive groves.

To the rest of us, it has largely been ignored in favour of tourism magnets like Tuscany and the Amalfi Coast. But not for long, many would argue.

To say Puglia is charming and romantic is an understatement. To say the waters are clear and the food is delicious, doesn’t come close to capturing this gem.

Gastronomy and revelry are priorities here, so don’t even think about visiting unless you’re willing to pack comfortable pants and glut out on the finest wines, pastries, crusty breads and sun-blessed fruits.

marie claire's insider's guide to Puglia, Italy. Photo: Getty Images

The area exudes a southern Italian charm – generous, slightly offbeat, rough around the edges. This makes sense, given its multicultural roots, a mélange of Hispanic, Hellenic, Ottoman and French – Puglia’s strategic position in the Med between the East and West has meant a history of invasions.

This turbulence can be seen in the most awe-inspiring way, with lavish Baroque and Romanesque churches, fortified walls and lots of crumbling remains. The heat in summer can be melt-your-gelati-in-three-seconds-hot, so shoulder season travel is best for all but the most hardcore sun-lovers.

And while Puglia’s beauty is postcard-worthy at every turn, don’t expect picture-perfect.

This is hard country with towns perched precariously on cliff edges, of arid earth and then, as if inhabitants need some breathing space, there are olive groves of the deepest green and beaches of almost unbelievable aquamarine. From the coast to the country there’s much to see, but here is our pick of what you don’t want to miss.

THE FABULOUS FARMHOUSES

The Puglian countryside is scattered with masserie (fortified farm estates). As they are large in size and stunning in design, it is hardly surprising they have been transformed into luxury hotels and grand private residences. One of the most ooh-and-ahh-worthy is Masseria San Domenico – a former watchtower used by the Knights of Malta in the 15th century.

This stunning stone structure sits in an oasis of green, surrounded on all sides by manicured grounds, a lake-peppered golf course, gnarly olive trees and tropical palms. But it’s the visions of blue that will blow your mind – from the lagoon-style swimming pool to the hotel’s private beach.

An enchanting trulli house adds colour to an Alberobello street. Photo: Getty Images

There’s also a thalassotherapy spa, which avails itself of the local mineral-rich seawater and seaweed, and dining options that offer the best local produce, all enjoyed under the shade of the terrace.

If you’re looking for the perfect Puglia base, look no further.

Visit masseriasandomenico.com.

THE HILLTOP TRIO

Puglia is known for its trulli houses – cylindrical beauties with a conical limestone-tiled roof and thick, whitewashed stone walls. The best trulli villages include Alberobello, with its thin, car-free alleys and shoebox shops bursting with produce and alfresco trattorie (taverns).

Pretty Locorotondo is luminously whitewashed and has panoramic views; while Cisternino’s charming centre hasn’t changed for centuries and there are countless nooks and crannies to explore in its labyrinthine streets.

Puglia’s architecture reflects a diverse mix of cultural influences. Photo: Getty Images

While every village has its own character, they also all seem to have a jewel-box piazza within walls – a place to see, be seen, and indulge well into the night, just as you can imagine the locals have always done.

LA CITTÀ BIANCA

Ostuni, known as La Città Bianca (the white city), is a fortified gem, with whitewashed houses jutting out like jewels in a medieval tiara. Ostuni feels a bit like a town that time forgot, authentic and with a charm that oozes from its cobblestoned streets to the tip of the town’s crowning glory, the 15th-century cathedral. It’s best to arrive in Ostuni in sun-bathed daylight to get the full effect of its blinding beauty.

It’s easy to get lost in the labyrinthine streets in the whitewashed town of Ostuni, with architecture dating back more than 600 years. Below: diners at Ristorante Grotta Palazzese become part of the spectacular landscape at the famous eatery housed in a sea cave. Photo: Getty Images

THE SEA CAVES

From Polignano a Mare, on the east coast, you can jump on a boat to discover the area’s iconic limestone sea caves and swim in the translucent blue waters.

Each cave has its own name and story. Even if you don’t dine there, a must-visit is the Ristorante Grotta Palazzese, a stunner set into the craggy Summer Cave (it’s only open May–October). Similarly stunning and just a stroll away, Il Bastione (in the Covo dei Saraceni Hotel) offers a similar menu for much less money.

THE ISLAND TOWN

The elegant harbour town of Gallipoli has a history as a city under siege, explaining why the old town centre is located on an island, encircled by defensive walls and connected by bridge. Explore the mazelike streets and eventually they will lead you to the waterfront promenade with stunning views. Locals flock to the main beach, Spiaggia della Purità, armed with deckchairs, but truth be told, cleaner and clearer beaches can be found a little further afield.

The town of Polignano a Mare is perched atop a 20-metre-high limestone cliff above the Adriatic Sea. Photo: Getty Images

THE FESTIVITIES

Puglia’s ancient traditions revolve around eating, drinking and partying. Carnivals, concerts and parades unfold throughout the year for, it seems, any reason at all. Those not to be missed include Il Carnevale di Putignano, which starts on Boxing Day and runs for about two months. Ostensibly it’s a religious festival, but in reality it’s an excuse for overeating and general merriment. Easter is hugely atmospheric and summer is a riot.

Check out Otranto (for the San Pietro e Paolo festival), Brindisi (hosts the Negroamaro Wine Festival), and Salento (for the 10-day jazz festival).

As summer segues into autumn, gastronomic festivals abound to celebrate the harvest.

HIT THE SHOPS

Your euros may take a hit buying up these local treasures...

SHOES: Puglia is renowned for its leather sandals and espadrilles (Christian Louboutin even has a style named after the region). Head to the town of Ostuni for streets lined with gladiator sandals.

POTTERY: Grottaglie is known as the “town of pottery”. Watch the artisans at work and buy wares straight from their atelier.

Ditch the diet and embrace the cornetti – a croissant hybrid. Photo: Getty Images

THE MENU

Make a meal of these local delicacies:

BOMBETTE WHILE IN CISTERNINO: Try a bombette (ask any butcher) – barbecued parcels of ham, mince and cheese.
CORNETTI: Ditch the diet and embrace the cornetti – a croissant hybrid (pictured above).
URCHINS, SQUID, TUNA: Head to Pescheria Due Mari in Savelletri for sea urchins by the shore. Team with crusty bread.