Yahoo Lifestyle At Home With Paolo Carzana for Spring 2025
There’s an intangible vulnerability that comes with Paolo Carzana’s work. Perhaps it’s the way tissue-thin silks and cottons float around the body, soft and light as eiderdown, or how cushy quilts knot around the torso in an embrace. But maybe the most compelling example of the brand’s tenderness is the 2024 LVMH Prize finalist’s latest show location: in the garden of his East London home.
Guests murmured compliments as they tramped through the halls of the designer’s house to the verdant garden outside — a sort of Eden — watching the dusky sky flush pink and purple.
More from WWD
Jodie Turner-Smith Gives Burberry a Futuristic Punk Twist at Daniel Lee's Spring 2025 Show
15 Brands You Might've Missed at London Fashion Week Spring 2025
Accessories Were Cutely Quirky at London Fashion Week for Spring 2025
Then there was light: warm and bright as the sun, the garden was illuminated as a mise-en-scene opened the show.
Inspired by Caravaggio’s “Narcissus,” Carzana said he set out to reimagine the tragic Greek myth. In his retelling, the fable’s vain principal realizes his fatal flaw before it’s too late, encouraging others to follow in his path to eco-conscious enlightenment.
Silk (organza, antique, deadstock, dupion, chiffon, tulle), cotton (brushed, muslin, poplin, net, calico, corduroy, twill, canvas), and Cloudwool were hand-dyed by the designer and his team in concoctions of Carzana’s own making.
The list of pigments and dyes read like a witch’s spell book — madder, woad, buckthorn berries, raw umber, terre ercolano, turmeric — which make sense, since there’s certainly magic imbued in the brand.
Gossamer pants, tops and dresses wound around models, divinely diaphanous and fey. Hats, made by frequent collaborator Nasir Mazhar, were straight from a Toulouse-Lautrec illustration, and cobwebbed around heads.
“I feel so out of place with this idea of coolness. I just care about clothes, their creation and making,” said Carzana softly in the post-show scrum, adding, “For me to open up this way was an attempt to make everyone understand how special these moments are and to completely remove the smoke and mirrors.”
It’s not often that a designer like Paolo Carzana comes along. What a joy it is to experience his work.
For more London spring 2025 reviews, click here.
Launch Gallery: Paolo Carzana Spring 2025 Ready-To-Wear Collection
Best of WWD
Sign up for WWD's Newsletter. For the latest news, follow us on Facebook, Twitter, and Instagram.
