Yahoo Lifestyle 22 things dermatologists want you to know about your skin in winter
As the nights start drawing in, chances are it's more than just your body clock that's being thrown off-kilter. Tight skin, rough knuckles, chapped lips? Say hello to winter, set to wreak havoc from head-to-toe.
To show it who’s boss, we asked the experts – the consultant dermatologist and Klira founder Dr Emma Craythorne; the independent dermatologist Dr Beibei Du-Harpur; the consultant dermatologist Dr Justine Hextall; and the skincare practitioner Annee De Mamiel – what you need know to keep your complexion happy throughout the cold snap. From your face to your feet, here’s how to winter-proof your skin, starting now.
1) Amp up the hydration
“Seasonal changes can significantly affect the skin’s ability to retain moisture,” says De Mamiel. “The elements can play havoc with how hydrated the skin is. In winter, low humidity, indoor heating, wind and hot showers are the main culprits.” To counteract their dehydrating effects, use skincare that prioritises hydrating ingredients in their formulas, such as hyaluronic acid, glycerin and polyglutamic acid.
Medik8 Hydr8 B5 Intense
The Inkey List Polyglutamic Acid Serum
De Mamiel Fatigue Fix
2) Switch to a more water-rich diet
On that note, intaking a good amount of water is one of the best ways to stave off skin dehydration. “Make sure you keep hydrated during the day; swap your coffee for green tea which has great antioxidant effects," Dr Hextall advises. You should also make an effort to incorporate more water-rich foods into your daily diet, such as cucumbers, pomegranates, avocados, broccoli and spinach.
3) Bolster your skin barrier
If using hydrating ingredients is the first step to battling dehydration in the winter months, the second is to prevent that moisture from being lost, which requires your skin barrier to be functioning at its optimal level. “Our skin barrier is typically impaired because we struggle to keep moisture in,” says the dermatologist Dr Emma Craythorne, explaining that we lose more water in our skin in the winter due to the lack of water vapour in the air. “This is further compounded by issues with filaggrin, a protein essential for maintaining natural moisturising factors. In winter, filaggrin levels may not function properly, which affects the skin barrier even more — especially in individuals already prone to deficiencies in that protein.”
This can result in skin feeling dry, flaky and tight, and it will often react harshly if acids are applied to it. To protect your skin barrier as much as possible and keep moisture locked in, slather your skin with creams and oils rich in humectant and occlusive ingredients like ceramides and squalane. You can also switch out your cleansers and daily moisturisers for formulations that focus on strengthening your skin barrier.
Ole Henriksen Après Skin Multi-Use Rich Rescue Crème
Naturium Plant Ceramide Rich Moisture Cream
Allies of Skin Molecular Barrier Recovery Cream Balm
4) Invest in a humidifier
While we can't control the weather outside, you can take steps to improve your indoor environment for your skin – like adding a humidifier to your space. As the name suggests, this machine will add humidity back into the air, and your skin will thank you for it.
5) Be mindful of your shower temperature
We hear it time and time again, but sadly this is no skincare myth. Hot showers really do dry out your skin, and there’s research to back it up. “Studies that looked at the effect of hand-washing on the skin, especially around the Covid-19 pandemic, found that washing with hot water has no effect on removing microbes compared to cold water, but it does impact trans-epidermal water loss, drying out your skin, stripping out your natural oils and affecting the overall integrity of your skin barrier,” explains Dr Craythorne.
6) Pay attention to your body routine
If you can’t give up a hot shower in winter, then make an effort to include cosseting body creams or oils with ingredients such as ceramides, which will have the same benefits on your body as when used on your face. “It’s really about the ingredients,” says Dr Craythorne. “Products with occlusive agents are usually found in cream formulations, so I’d generally recommend a cream, but oils are wonderful as well.”
Delicia Drench Body Butter
Lipikar Lait Urea 5+ Lotion
Sunday Sofa Body Butter
7) Take it easy
The winter months can be increasingly taxing, not just on our skin but on our bodies and mental health, so use these colder months as an opportunity to embrace a slower pace of life. "Some emotions can dehydrate us – stress, anxiety and sadness can deplete our water reserves," explains De Mamiel. "Stress activates the sympathetic nervous system, leading to increased cortisol levels. Cortisol can impair the skin’s barrier function, reduce its ability to retain water, and increase trans-epidermal water loss." Try to minimise stress and lower your cortisol levels as much as possible; this can be done by incorporating lifestyle changes such as meditation, gentle exercise like yoga and Pilates, prioritising better sleep, and adopting a more nourishing diet.
8) Remember that too much change isn't always a good thing
“I would not recommend a complete overhaul of all products due to a change in seasons – I don't think there's a need for it," says Dr Du-Harpur. "I think that the most important thing is to develop an awareness and understanding of your own skin and how it responds to different environments and products, and make simple changes to help skin adapt for a change in environment. Being aware of potentially irritating ingredients is important too, such as retinoids, exfoliating acids and vitamin C.” Prescription skincare services such as Klira offer bespoke formulations via dermatologist reviews and personalised skin analysis, taking the guesswork out of what will work best for your skin.
Klira The Klira Special
9) Don't skip SPF
Just because it's winter, that doesn’t mean you should put away your suncream. "While there is less UVB around in winter, levels of UVA (or UV-Ageing as it is known in the dermatology world) are still significant enough to age our skin," says Dr Hextall. "I advocate using a sunscreen that specifically has a high UVA rating, like Ladival, all year round to protect your skin. As UVB is the wavelength that stimulates vitamin D production, levels can drop in the winter months and if necessary we can supplement with oral vitamin D3.”
10) Consider professional skin treatments
Winter is a great time of year for skin treatments, says Dr Hextall. "We always worry about peels and laser treatments in the summer months. With sun exposure before or after such procedures there is a higher risk of unwanted post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. Autumn and winter therefore represents an opportunity. I would however suggest planning ahead, to make sure your skin has time to settle and be at its peak for the party season. A course of microneedling, like The Harley Medical Group’s DermaFNS treatment, can help to stimulate new collagen and restore skin glow. Likewise, rather than waiting for summer, now is the time to start tackling unwanted hair with a course of laser hair removal.”
11) Swap to a gentle cleanser
"Gentle cleansing is a must: you need your skin barrier to be as healthy as possible so that it can retain vital moisture. As a rule of thumb, if your skin feels tight after washing it is likely that the cleanser you are using has disrupted your skin barrier. Skin should feel calm and hydrated after washing, so if you are reaching immediately for your moisturiser you may want to consider a gentler cleanser. I like DermaQuest Essential Daily Cleanser and Cetaphil's gentle wash.”
Essential Cleanser
Gentle Skin Cleanser Wash
Goat Milk Moisturizing Cleanser
12) Pay extra attention to sensitive skin
Dr Du-Harpur says that those with sensitive skin may experience heightened or more significant cold or wind sensation than those without. "Although everybody’s reason for sensitivity is different, some research suggests that one factor may be that people literally have different degrees of sensitivity in the nerve fibres connecting our skin to our brains. Using a richer or more soothing moisturiser can help balance things out. I recommend seeking out ingredients that can calm skin which experiences irritability, such as the Avène Tolerance Control Collection which includes postbiotic D-Sensinose.”
13) Upgrade your moisturiser
“If you are having to apply a moisturiser again during the day, it is likely your skin routine needs tweaking. If you're using a lotion, try swapping it for a cream, massaging it into your skin for 30 seconds to maximise its effects. For treatments at home I like the Hydraphase Intense Masque by La Roche Posay and the Eve Lom Moisture Mask,” says Dr Hextall.
14) Layer up at bedtime
Dr Du-Harpur says: “My number one tip is to embrace using a more occlusive, rich product, especially for the evening routine, which can help maintain the skin barrier and prevent the need for prescribed treatments. Similarly, products marketed as ‘recovery masks’ often contain rich ingredients that are great for moisturising. Although petrolatum and mineral oils have had some bad press over the years, it is really quite undeserved and they are a key part of a dermatologists’ arsenal in managing many skin conditions, particularly dry skin. The occlusive effect of such ingredients essentially shields the skin and gives it time to repair itself or maintain its natural barrier function.”
15) Book in for a facial
“Winter skin is often dull, so I recommend a professional facial about every four weeks," advises Dr Hextall. "That’s how long it takes your skin to move through the full life cycle of skin cell growth, so I often advise people to opt for a superficial peel or exfoliating treatment such as The Harley Medical Group Power Pumpkin Resurfacer (available nationwide) in order to slough off dead skin and allow better absorption of active topical skincare. Regular facials will help to keep your skin clean, clear and hydrated while maximising your everyday skincare regime, too.”
16) Protect your lips
“Licking sore lips will only exacerbate dryness and can cause what is referred to as ‘lick eczema’," explains Dr Hextall. "Make sure your lips are sealed with an effective ointment at all times, particularly before eating and drinking, as some foods, like tomatoes, can irritate chapped lips. I recommend Epaderm Ointment or Cicaplast Balm B5 by La Roche-Posay. If you are skiing, remember lips are vulnerable to sun burn. Zinc oxide is a fantastic physical sunscreen and will help to reflect the UV away from the skin of your face and lips.”
17) Don't forget your hands
Hands are very high risk for becoming chapped and sore in winter, says Dr Hextall. "New mothers constantly washing hands often come and see me in the winter months. My advice is to avoid baby wipes, as they can contain preservatives that trigger hand eczema, and for everyone to wear gloves when washing. Dermol 500 is a fantastic moisturising soap substitute that is mildly antibacterial – it is very useful if frequent hand washing is necessary. At night, apply a rich layer of hand cream under cotton gloves. After a few nights, the skin barrier will start to heal and the difference is often amazing. I love Avene XeraCalm A.D. Lipid and Neutrogena's hand cream.”
18) Monitor scaly skin for dermatitis
“If you notice scaling around your nose and eyebrows in the winter months you may be developing a dermatitis thought to be exacerbated by yeast," explains Dr Hextall. "Cold winter weather is also a known trigger. I recommend checking with your GP and applying Canesten cream to the affected areas twice a day for a week and every so often to reduce recurrence. Also, if you use a very gentle skin wash and moisturise twice a day it will help. Sometimes an anti-inflammatory cream may be needed too, for a short time, and your doctor can advise here. As with most skin conditions, early intervention often stops them in their tracks.”
19) Consider a foot peel
Dr Hextall confirms that feet often become dry and cracked when the temperature drops. "Exfoliating frequently and applying an effective moisturiser always helps, but for many there just aren’t enough hours in the day. This is where the Skin Republic Foot Peel comes in. This amazing treatment is in essence a chemical peel for feet. Don’t be fooled if your feet feel no different in the morning – in a few days, you will be essentially shedding your exoskeleton. Expect to lose layers of skin: as unattractive as it is, the results are baby-soft feet.”
20) Use bath time to hydrate
“Baths are a gift to dry winter skin. Not only do they provide the all-important relaxation to switch of those skin-damaging stress hormones, but baths are a marvellous opportunity to hydrate skin. If you suffer with eczema, Balneum Plus Bath Oil can hydrate skin and reduce itching," says Dr Hextall. For a treat, try Jo Malone's Bath Oils and the This Works Deep Sleep Bath Oil.
21) Keep an eye out for keratosis pilaris
In winter, "a common site for dryness is the lower legs," says Dr Du-Harpur. "So-called ‘chicken skin’ or keratosis pilaris (KP) may also become more noticeable around this time of year due to dryness and associated inflammation. I recommend washing with the Avène XeraCalm A.D. Cleansing Oil and, for those with KP or who wish to gently exfoliate while moisturising, choose a body lotion that's formulated with lactic acid.”
22) Don't drink yourself dry
“Research has shown that alcohol can increase inflammation in the skin and worsen many skin diseases, such as psoriasis, eczema and rosacea. It has a dehydrating effect on the body in general and also disturbs sleep which is important for skin regeneration and general skin health; this disruption of our body’s natural equilibrium may lead to our skin looking dull and tired," says Dr Du-Harpur, who also recommends limiting the amount of alcohol consumed in one day, and remembering to drink water to maintain general hydration.
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