Yahoo Lifestyle Buyers Look for Consistency and Novelty at Shanghai Fashion Week
SHANGHAI — Even though Chinese designers remain mostly unperturbed by U.S. President Donald Trump’s sweeping tariffs — due to their hyper-focus on the domestic market — they still have to reckon with the slow burn of a multibrand retail market in flux and an increasingly cautious economic climate.
This season, what caught buyers’ eyes were established designers, such as Samuel Gui Yang and Mark Gong, who demonstrated consistency that were also conveyed through easy products.
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Retailers also praised designers that stayed on schedule. “A few designers confided in me that they didn’t do shows because it’s simply too expensive. But I think if you have something to say, there are ways to do this creatively,” said Jillian Xin, buying director at Labelhood.
Here, buyers discuss some of the week’s highlights.
Jillian Xin, buying director at Labelhood, Shanghai
Favorite collection: One of my favorite collections was off-schedule, Yehuafan. We’ve been buying him for a few years but his vision has evolved recently and the fall 2025 collection is incredibly sophisticated. The fit, craftsmanship and attention to detail is extraordinary. I also loved Samuel Gui Yang this season — the collection feels bolder and more self-assured. The more established designers were also very consistent and demonstrated they have sustained relevance and staying power, such as Shushu/Tong and Oude Waag.
Best show formats:The best shows were the designers who made it happen despite everything — limited funds and a bad economy. They didn’t let constraints hold them back from expressing themselves. For instance, I really liked the presentation format at Labelhood this year, which still allowed younger designers such as Tongwang and Papi Lav to showcase their collections in a more resourceful and economic way. A few designers confided in me that they didn’t do shows because it’s simply too expensive but I think if you have something to say, there are ways to do this creatively.
Top trends: I loved the styling at WMWM…unexpected layering such as silk camisole dresses over knits and clashing colors and textures…a more intellectual and intentional way of dressing. The “New Chinoiserie” trend is also becoming more nuanced and sophisticated — I loved Ao Yes and of course Samuel Gui Yang’s interpretations.
Must-have item: Everyone is talking about Mark Gong’s logo Ts. I also want GG in Red’s felted birds as bag charms.
New talent: GG in Red. What a remarkable first collection. There isn’t anything like it right now. The designer himself is also so humble yet so talented.
Impression of the week: I think it’s been about quality over quantity. Designers are more considered about what they put out…not designing for the sake of it or showing collections for the sake of it. Some brands are taking a pause, leaving room for others to shine. It’s refreshing really.
Budget up or down?: Don’t want to jinx things but our budgets are a tiny bit up for fall 2025.
Eric Young, founder of LMDS, Shanghai
Favorite collection: Jacques Wei and Samuel Gui Yang
Best show formats: I was only able to make it to one show this season, to Samuel Gui Yang. He chose to hold it at a white cube lane house on West Jianguo Road, which was not as spectacular as the last show on the rooftop of the Suzhou Creek, but it still felt very special. Looking through the photos, I felt bad for missing the Jacques Wei show, it looked like the runway was chic and gorgeous.
Top trends: Pragmatism.
Must-have items: Light-hearted dresses, sweaters in fun colors, Jacques Wei’s sexy colored lace items and Samuel Gui Yang’s denim pieces.
New talent: Cai Ru, a designer I discovered on Xiaohongshu (id: bitcrcrcr). He was already designing impressive looks for American artists when he was still at school. He joined a local brand called White Abyss and then this season is their first. This collection is not perfect, of course, but I will continue to keep an eye out for his work.
Ode to Red is created by two young people who don’t look very much like designers. They are very young still, so they haven’t figured out what they want to do yet. But I’m really into the handmade knit work, it has rustic warmth yet fits within the global sartorial language. But they have to develop more from this point onward, there is still a lot of work to be done.
Impression of the week: If you go to a big showroom, you’ll discover that big ready-to-wear labels still attract a huge crowd. Independent designers are having a much harder time, and could be in real danger if their collections were of the type that needed to take time to understand, as opposed to having an obvious selling point. The good and the bad of Shanghai Fashion Week can be observed even more clearly during this economic downturn. The good thing is that the Chinese market is big enough and there are enough segments of consumption; the bad thing is that creativity is really shrinking and there is simply no incentive to try.
Budget up or down?: Should be higher, but will buy more discreetly.
Will Zhang, founder of SND, Chongqing
Favorite collection: Into the East. The brand maintained its bohemian bent, and for its latest collection, it paid homage to local culture, and explored new shapes and rejuvenated modern dress styles. Categories worth noting included dresses, printed shirts and pants.
Best show format: Oude Waag. The brand maintained its artistic aesthetic, which was very consistent. Colors and tailoring also stood out.
Top trends: In this season, we could see that more and more brands are actively catering to buyers’ and market’s particular needs. Products and styles skew casual, minimal and wearable. At the same time, brands with a bohemian twist are also popular.
Must-have items: Oude Waag’s look four, seven, 14 and 21.
New talents: The Meaning Of. This London-based brand blends simplicity and sophistication, and after only three seasons, it’s already showing a unique perspective with its product range and dimensions. With a focus on color and everyday details, the brand combines comfort, individuality and sustainability with an authentic wardrobe-focused story at an affordable price.
Impression of the week: Although the crowd has gotten smaller, this also means those who stay are true retail professionals and have found a loyal customer base. As the market evolves, brands can expect to welcome a more loyal customer base.
Budget up or down?: Slightly up based on full-year outlook. We are going deeper with good-performing brands, at the same time scouting for new brands on the market.
Michael Mok, buying consultant of Society A, Singapore
Favorite collection: My favorite collection goes to Mark Gong. I am attracted by his bad girls romance looks.
Best show formats: Jacques Wei. The designer chose the top floor of a commercial building with big windows over view of the Shanghai sunset. Perfect timing to switch the whole venue into gold.
Top trends: Feminine with a twist and bad girl romance.
Must-have item: Any furry items from jackets to accessories.
New talent: Sorry, but I did not find any this season.
Impression of the week: There were less buyers at showrooms and fairs, but the fashion shows were interesting. I felt that the brands are playing it safe and being cautious. They are focusing on their individualism and bestselling items.
Budget up or down?: Overall, our budget for Chinese brands has increased because of their price point and speedy replenishment system.
Ash Ghazali, global creative director of Club 21, Singapore
Favorite collection: Chengguang Wang and Raxxy
Best show formats: Short Sentence
Must-have item: Raxxy Puffer Jacket
New talent: Chenguang Wang
Impression of the week: Great quality, great quantity; a lot of room to improve on unique brand DNA for the international market.
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