Yahoo Lifestyle "As a British Indian woman, H&M x Anamika Khanna makes me feel seen"
Growing up, I hated wearing what I always referred to as ‘Indian clothes’. Every time there was a family wedding or religious celebration, out would come the lehengas, with their scratchy chiffon skirts and polyester tops, or sarees I could barely move in.
But the worst part was that I never really felt – or looked – like myself in Indian clothes. They were so different to the 00s British fashion I was obsessed with (think spaghetti strap tops, hipster jeans and giant hoodies) that I always felt the split in my wardrobe symbolised the internal split I felt in myself as a brown girl born in Britain.
It’s why I was so intrigued to hear about H&M’s latest collaboration with Indian designer Anamika Khanna. H&M is one of the high-street brands I spent endless weekends in as a teen, but it’s not somewhere I necessarily saw my Indian identity represented. While Anamika Khanna is famous for dressing Bollywood royalty like Priyanka Chopra and Deepika Padukone in her modernised takes on traditional Indian clothing.
How would the two work together? And how would I feel wearing them? Even though I’m now proud to be a British Indian woman, especially a creative who writes about fashion, my wardrobe is still split in two: Indian outfits for ceremonial wear, and everything else for daily wear. Where would H&M x Anamika Khanna fit in?
I had no idea what to expect when I went to H&M’s showroom to try on the collection, but I instantly recognised the choli-style blouses and lehenga-inspired skirts from my Indian wardrobe. At the same time, I saw the cropped tops, high-waisted skirts and athleisure-inspired cuts that are ubiquitous on the UK high street – and the other side of my wardrobe.
Because Khanna’s collection isn’t just one thing. It’s a mix of Indian fabrics and textures along with westernised cuts. There are flowing kaftans and skirts reminiscent of sarees, along with hoodies, blazers and baseball caps.
I loved playing with the styles, pairing a long silk skirt with an oversized T-shirt, then adding a silk jacket to dress it up. Or a cropped floral blouse with a high-waisted monochrome skirt splashed with colourful patterns, all with a flowing jacket in the same mulberry silk. It’s fun, unique and I have no idea what ‘side’ of my wardrobe it would fit into, which is refreshing.
The items that do feel recognisably ‘Indian’ to me have all the elements of Indian fashion I always loved – bright colours that suit my complexion, bold patterns and silky textures – but they’ve all been updated with clean, modern cuts, with several unisex items.
Her emerald-green silk suit looks like an Indian-inspired version of something I already own. Then there’s a statement boucle jacket with a cut-out black skirt, and plenty of saree-esque blouses.
Unlike the scratchy Indian clothes I was forced into as a teenager, these are joyously comfortable. There are oversized silk pyjama-style sets, cleverly placed zips that don’t dig in, and soft fabrics that drape in the right places.
To my surprise, the outfit I love the most is the most recognisably Indian, with its sleeved cropped top and full high-waisted skirt in white with black, yellow and green designs. I could easily wear it to a Diwali party – but I also want to wear it to my next book launch. Because this outfit makes me feel exactly like myself. For once, I don’t feel like I have to choose which side of heritage to represent through fashion, because Khanna’s collection blends them together.
That was exactly her goal. She tells Cosmo she wants the collection to be ‘worn by anyone who appreciates a blend of tradition and modernity, regardless of their background.’ To her, this was the ‘perfect platform to push the boundaries of how Indian design elements can be interpreted in a mainstream fashion arena, making them more approachable for a diverse audience.’
It's a cultural milestone in that it’s one of the first times a major high-street brand has brought Indian-inspired fashion into the global market. H&M has recently collaborated with brands like Sonia Rykiel, Rokh and Rabanne, and Khanna hopes hers ‘will alter the global perception of Indian fashion, showcasing its versatility beyond traditional wear and highlighting its potential in everyday, modern wardrobes.’
She wants to show that Indian fashion doesn’t need to be ‘confined to ethnic or ceremonial wear’. Instead, her goal is to ‘create a bridge between cultural heritage and current global fashion trends.’
That’s exactly what she’s done. With H&M x Anamika Khanna, I feel like my culture as a British Indian woman is being fully represented on the high-street for the first time. It bridges together the two sides of my wardrobe – the two sides of my identity – and I can’t wait to see other women wearing it.
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