Yahoo Lifestyle The best musk perfumes of all-time, according to Bazaar editors
Pre-internet, musk was merely a base note; a fixative ingredient that existed solely to make other notes shine and to help them stick around a little longer. In an early post-internet world, however – a world in which fewer and fewer things were being done in-person – musk, thanks to its human, skin-like quality, took on a new significance. Sensorially, it filled a vacuum of intimacy and suddenly found itself in the spotlight, with Narciso Rodriguez's 2004 For Her EDT being the poster girl perfume of this movement.
Since then, as our lives have continued to become increasingly virtual, musk fragrances have incrementally gained popularity (viral scent Plur Missing Person, a case in point). Here, we dive a little deeper into this most addictive of fragrance notes...
What exactly is musk?
When musk was originally used in perfumery, it came from the sex glands of the Tibetan musk deer, and there is evidence of its use as far back as the 6th century. Although in its raw state it would have smelt (much like oud) fairly revolting, when combined with other notes it would take on an animalic, skin-like, sensuous quality. By the late 1970s, the musk deer was thankfully protected, and since then all musk notes in perfume are either synthetic, or come from other natural ingredients with musk-like qualities. Today, when perfumes refer to musk as an ingredient, this could be anything from chemical compounds such as Nirvanolide, Iso E Super, and ambroxan to natural ingredients like ambergris and ambrette seed (also known as musk mallow).
What is it about musk that makes it so irresistible?
"Because musk often evokes feelings of sensuality, comfort or nostalgia, as an ingredient it can create great emotional depth," explains the perfumer and founder of Experimental Perfume Club Emmanuelle Moeglin. "All of these feelings enhance a fragrance's emotive dimension and help to draw us in." This, in turn, keeps us wanting more – a perfect example of how profound an effect scent can have on our mood and emotions.
What, specifically, does musk bring to a fragrance?
"As well as being a deeply impactful note, musk is also very versatile and can bring different qualities to a fragrance depending on how it’s used," says Moeglin. "When used as a central note, it is expressive and can help give a perfume a clean, radiant, and bright profile. It can also bring warmth and depth, with an often sensual feel (think skin scents) that can be described as animalistic," explains Moeglin. "When used as a base note, on the other hand, it helps anchor other notes and extends a fragrance’s staying power; it acts at the foundation and, when combined with notes like woods, ambers or resins, can create a grounding effect."
Moeglin goes on to explain that, "when musk is used at the base of a perfume, more often than not, it blends in and acts as a support for other notes. It is when it is at the heart of a fragrance, however, that musk is much more noticeable; it's able to have identity and character."
The 10 best musk perfumes, according to Bazaar editors
For Her Pure Musc EDP
Such was the wild success of Narciso Rodriguez's original For Her, the brand has since rolled out a whole family of musk-based fragrances that vary in their musk-meets-soft-floral balance. For those for whom the original wasn't quite musky enough, there is Pure Musc which, as the name suggests, is a beautifully simple structure that opens with musk, lifted with the gentlest smattering of flowers, then dries down into nuzzlingly soft cashmeran notes.
Molecule 01 + Guaiac Wood EDT
In 2023, Escentric Molecules launched the Molecule + collection: three versions of the cult Molecule 01 fragrance (which claims to enhance the smell of pheromones, and smells different from person to person), each with one additional ingredient. Molecule 01 + Guaiac Wood is described by the brand’s founder and perfumer Geza Schoen as being "like emulsified smoke that melts into the Iso E Super to make a skin-scent that is super-sexy".
Sandalwood Musk EDP
"This fragrance uses a clean, white musk alongside sandalwood, ambroxan and pink peppercorn," says the perfumer Emmanuelle Moeglin. "This combination, in my opinion, makes for a fragrance that is soft, animalistic and addictive." As huge fans of EPC here on the Bazaar beauty desk (when in London, the brand's Monmouth Street store-meets-lab is very much worth a visit) we couldn't agree more.
$115.00 at experimentalperfumeclub.com
Musc Ravageur EDP
While its base – laden with musk, amber and animalic notes – ensures that this Frederic Malle fragrance dries down to musky perfection, there's so much else going on before you get there. Citrus notes, spices, heady florals and vanilla make this a more-is-more musk; the olfactory equivalent of walking into a room in Elizabeth Hurley's safety-pin dress.
Not A Perfume EDP
Ever the provocateur, founder Romano Ricci named this fragrance Not A Perfume as it only contains two synthetic notes: ambroxan and cetalox, both of which have a musky profile. But not allegedly being a perfume doesn't make this scent any less desirable or beautiful. "Cetalox has a very airy and skin-like quality," says Moeglin and is, in her opinion, a clever route for brands to create interpretations of musk.
Musc Pallida essence de parfum
As far as fragrances go, this is intense. Formulated as a highly concentrated fragrance oil, a little of this perfume goes a long way, and creates a sense of sultry summer nights thanks to the addition of heady, powdery iris. This is holiday romances and balmy riviera nights, bottled.
Musk Therapy extrait de parfum
Initio refers to this fragrance as "a magical mood enhancer", and certainly there is an initial citrus sweetness to this fragrance that can't help but put a smile on your face. It's when you get to the dreamy magnolia, sandalwood and, of course, musk, however, that you feel the full effects of a happier state of mind.
You EDP
This cult favourite from Glossier pops up again and again in Bazzar fragrance round-ups because it really is that good. Ambroxan and ambrette are the ingredients that give You its muskiness, kept clean with just a little pink pepper and iris. It sits lightly on the skin for a mercurial trail that can smell fresh and clean on one person, sensual on the next.
Mûre et Musc EDT
For those who like a little juiciness atop their musk, this fragrance does it with class; a sprinkling of citrus notes alongside black and red berries brings light-filled loveliness to the base of musk and oak moss. Simple, sophisticated and bursting with optimism.
L'Air de Rien EDP
Inspired by and created in collaboration with Jane Birkin (need we say more?), it feels like this fragrance captures all of her love affairs in a scent. It's sensual, sophisticated, timeless and somehow poetic, thanks to a careful curation of orange blossom, oak moss and patchouli flanking amber-musk notes. Je t'aime, Jane.
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