Alainpaul Spring 2025: Balletcore Is Core to This Designer

Booth Moore
·2-min read

Balletcore is emerging as a spring 2025 runway trend, as seen at the tutu-fabulous Simone Rocha show in London, the ribbon-laced shoes and dance rehearsal clothes at Ferragamo in Milan, and in the lightness and stretchiness of the Alaia collection in New York.

But for Alain Paul, who trained as a dancer at the Opera Marseille, it’s core to who he is, and shapes his approach to designing collections, including the one presented Tuesday at the Theatre Chatelet, his third since launching his brand, and the first to appear on the official Paris fashion calendar.

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“Since the first season, I was experimenting with rehearsal studio attire…and all these details stayed in the brand’s identity. But this one is more about movement and a comment on the freedom of movement,” said the designer, who worked for a decade for brands including Vetements and Louis Vuitton before striking out on his own last year with Alainpaul. “I’m trying to bring my ballet wardrobe into our day-to-day wardrobe.”

That led to a collection full of innovative shapes that played with restraint and release, sometimes on the same piece, making for compelling fashion with everyday ease. Consider his clever stretchy stirrup styles–not just pants, also skirts and dresses–worn hooked under heeled ballet shoes to create a stretched and straight silhouette, but that could also be unhooked for a more fluid look. (He’d be great for a collab with Danskin, Repetto or someone else in the dance space.)

He experimented with sheer layers (another trend du jour) with compressed tulle separates, some of which seemed too constraining. But sheer nylon knits over shirting made for a modern dressy daytime proposition.

Paul has developed a signature tailoring silhouette with shoulder pads tilted to the front of blazers, which created a strong (but not hulking posture a la his old boss Demna). And ebullient ruffled chiffon tent dresses over bodysuits and leotards were the kind of pieces one could throw on at the last minute to go to a party. The finale gowns fringed with embroidered ballet tights were also quite genius.

Paul knows it’s a challenging time, but sees a point of differentiation in eco-responsibility. “I don’t use polyester, we use organic cotton, tailoring is 100 percent wool, there are no blends so you can recycle. As a young designer you have to do this today. During my career at big houses, we tried to implement it, but it was like turning a big boat. When you start from the beginning, it makes it easier.”

Launch Gallery: Alainpaul Spring 2025 Ready-to-Wear Collection

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