Michigan Is Making Some of the Most Refreshing, Crisp Wines You Need to Try

The Midwest may be the last place many wine drinkers think of when seeking their next bottle. But consider Michigan, the Great Lakes State, as perhaps the country’s “third coast.” It’s a region where the soils, climate, and grapes come together for wines as crisp and inviting as the blue-green waters of Lake Michigan.

Most of Michigan vineyards and wineries span the state’s “fruit belt,” which hugs Lake Michigan’s coast from the Indiana border to the Mackinaw Bridge.

Related: The Best Michigan Wineries to Visit

Western Michigan benefits from the moderating effects of Lake Michigan, where everything from apples, pears, and peaches to sweet and tart cherries flourish. And yes, it also produces a lot of grapes. Not only does Western Michigan supply massive harvests of Concord and Niagara grapes for juice and jelly, but it’s also grown fine wine grapes for more than a century. In the last few decades, the state has come into its own to offer world-class wines with distinctive terroir.

History of Michigan wine

Michigan’s first commercial winery opened in eastern Monroe County, along the aptly named River Raisin, in 1868. In 1933, Michigan became the first state to ratify the 21st Amendment, which repealed Prohibition. The following year, the winery now known as St. Julian Winery was founded. It remains as Michigan’s oldest winery in operation.

With a welcoming climate for vines, the wine industry grew in southwest Michigan. In 1970, Boskydel Vineyard’s Bernie Rink planted his vineyard up north in Leelanau County, which sparked that region’s wine fortunes.

Four years later, Ed O’Keefe took a considerable risk. He decided to plant the state’s first major vineyard of Vitis vinifera grapes on Old Mission Peninsula, near Traverse City. Experts told him that the region wasn’t suited to such delicate European grape varieties.

Nonetheless, he tore out an old cherry orchard and planted 55 acres of Riesling, Chardonnay, and Merlot. The result transformed Michigan’s wine industry forever. The grapes, especially Riesling, thrived. Riesling is now the state’s most widely planted wine grape.

Since then, the state’s wine industry has grown and evolved. Today, Michigan boasts more than 4,000 acres under vine. More than 140 wineries produce bottlings from over 50 grape varieties grown within its borders. Most of the wineries sit along the west coast of Michigan’s mitten-shaped lower peninsula, especially in southwest and northwest lower Michigan.

What differentiates Michigan wine?

Cool-climate latitude

Michigan’s southern wine regions sit around the 42nd parallel, similar to that of Rome and other parts of Italy. The northern areas sit at the 45th parallel, like Bordeaux, the northern Rhône, Piedmont, and Oregon’s Willamette Valley. Both are prime latitudes for grape growing.

Lake effect

Most of the state’s vineyards are planted within 25 miles of Lake Michigan, the world’s fifth-largest lake. It moderates the climate with steady breezes that extend the growing season. The cool lake offers a significant day-night temperature shift, as evenings provide grapes relief after hot summer days, similar to the Pacific Ocean’s effect on California’s coastal wines.

Glacial soils

Michigan’s geology was shaped by massive glaciers that created the Great Lakes. Soils range from clay to sand, as well as gravelly or sandy loam, with bedrocks of granite, limestone, and more. These well-drained moraine soils often sit on hilly drumlins that face the lake’s temperature-moderating breeze.

Refreshing acidity

The combination of a cool climate and the right grape varieties produce wines that exude bright acidity. The state offers refreshing bottles of Riesling, Pinot Gris, crisp rosé, and more.

Balance and finesse

Many of Michigan’s wines are under 13% ABV, which keeps them from feeling heavy on the palate and allows for more nuanced flavors. This balance makes Michigan wines a joy to pair with your favorite meals.

Food-friendly varieties

Unlike regions that produce big-boned Cabernet Sauvignon or Syrah, Michigan wineries have succeeded with other grapes. Riesling shines above the rest, offering wines in various styles, from steely and bone-dry or bubbly, to delicately sweet or unctuous and nectar-like.

Three notable members of the Pinot family — Blanc, Gris, and Noir — thrive here. Wineries in Leelanau and Old Mission Peninsula grow standout renditions of Pinot Blanc with a rich yet refreshing balance. Popular red varieties include Pinot Noir and Cabernet Franc, with the peppery Blaufränkisch and cherry-inflected Gamay on the rise.

In addition, Michigan winegrowers experiment with varieties that might fit the state’s unique microclimates. Grapes like Grüner Veltliner, Kerner, Auxerrois, Dornfelder, and Chenin Blanc show promise in Northern Michigan, while Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc, and Albariño thrive in the southwest part of the state.

The future of Michigan wine

Unlike regions of the Old World, like Burgundy, the Mosel, or Piedmont, Michigan is still finding its way. It’s still discovering what sites, soils, grape varieties, and vinification techniques best suit the terroir.

Blaufränkisch has taken off as a standout red variety, which has delivered refreshing yet full-bodied wines with a spicy touch. As Riesling plantings expand, so do other white grapes like smooth Auxerrois, aromatic Kerner, peppery Grüner Veltliner, and even Albariño.

Michigan winemakers are taking cues from both old standards and modern wine trends. They ferment juice in 1,200-liter Stückfass and concrete eggs, as well as traditional oak barrique and stainless steel tanks.

Recently, several vintners have utilized native yeast fermentations. Skin-fermented orange wines and effervescent pétillant naturel wines (i.e., pét-nats) have popped up from producers across the state.

Michigan wine regions

The state hosts five American Viticultural Areas (AVAs), designated growing areas with distinct climates, soils, and character. However, grapes are grown and wine is made across Michigan.

Lake Michigan Shore

Michigan’s largest region by wine volume, the Lake Michigan Shore area stretches along Lake Michigan from the Indiana border north to the Kalamazoo River. Although established as an AVA in 1987, wine growing in the region dates to 1867. Moraine soils provide good drainage, and there’s just enough warmth in this cool-climate region to achieve success with dozens of red and white grapes varieties.

Fennville

The Fennville AVA was established in 1981, just the country’s third appellation to be recognized. It sits within the northwestern portion of the larger Lake Michigan Shore AVA, between South Haven and Saugatuck. Fennville has a climate similar to Lake Michigan Shore but with more prevalent sandy soils. Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, and Riesling thrive here.

Leelanau Peninsula

The vineyards on Michigan’s resplendent pinky finger sit on a peninsula between Lake Michigan and Grand Traverse Bay. Founded in 1982 by owner Bernie Rink, of Boskydel Vineyard, and Larry Mawby, of L. Mawby, this hilly region boasts various soil types, but tends to consist of well-drained sandy loam. Mawby first gave the region prominence with his range of sparkling wines. Grapes planted here include Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Chardonnay, the Pinot family, Auxerrois, Sauvignon Blanc, Blaufränkisch, and Cabernet Franc. Winemakers experiment with new varieties here every year.

Old Mission Peninsula

This 19-mile finger of land juts into Grand Traverse Bay, but it’s only three miles at its widest point. With blue-green waters on both sides of the peninsula, this AVA might be one of the most romantic in America. The water moderates the climate, and the sloping vineyards here offer an ideal situation for many grapes, notably some stunning Riesling, Pinot Blanc, Gewürztraminer, Gamay, and even lesser-known grapes like Kerner and Blaufränkisch. It produces some of the state’s most critically acclaimed wines.

Tip of the Mitt

As the name suggests, Michigan’s newest AVA sits at the top portion of the state’s “mitten.” Lakes Michigan and Huron influence this very cool climate zone. Although some growers succeed with traditional wine grapes like Riesling, most varieties grown here are cold-hardy hybrids that thrive, like Marquette, Frontenac Gris, Frontenac Blanc, and La Crescent.

Wines to try

Mari Vineyards Simplicissimus Sparkling Riesling 2022, Old Mission Peninsula ($38)

Sean O’Keefe, son of the first person to plant a significant amount of Riesling in Michigan, studied winemaking in Geisenheim in the Rheingau, what he calls the “Hogwarts of Riesling.” Any Riesling that he touches seems to shine, including this stunning bubbly variation. Pineapple, delicious golden apple, yellow plum, and floral notes perfume this bottle. It can make you wonder why sparkling Riesling isn’t in every wine shop.

Brengman Bros Riesling Trocken, Crain Hill Vineyard, Leelanau Peninsula ($27)

Michigan wineries are moving beyond traditional stainless-steel fermented white wines made using commercial yeasts. Owner/winemaker Robert Brengman works alongside the enterprising young Ryan Tompke, who ferments nearly all their wines with native yeasts. Made in concrete tanks, this tense, textural bottle of dry Riesling has a complex structure, no hard edges, and deeply mineral notes alongside comice pear, white flours, and a touch of Rainier cherry.

Big Little Wines Driftwood Riesling 2023, Leelanau Peninsula ($23)

Made by brothers Michael and Peter Laing, this crowd-pleasing, stainless steel-fermented Riesling brings a whisper of sweetness and a gush of flavor. Tingly acidity, with notes of Pink Lady apple, white cherry, and anise aromatics, make this wine perfect to refresh your palette after anything aromatic and spicy, like a walloping green curry.

Modales Winery Grüner Veltliner Lone Silo Vineyard 2023, Old Mission Peninsula ($24)

Although the winery is located in southern Fennville, the grapes are from a vineyard several hours north. This medium-to-full-bodied expression of Austria’s signature grape tastes like a top-tiered version from its homeland. With part of the wine fermented in a large, neutral-oak barrel, this Grüner has tones of lime leaf, green apple, fennel bulb, sweet pea, and an earthy mineral tone. This bottle screams to sit alongside hard-to-pair vegetables like artichokes, any brassica, or a grilled bratwurst.

Left Foot Charley Pinot Blanc Island View Vineyard 2022, Old Mission Peninsula ($28)

Winemaker Bryan Ulbrich started Left Foot Charley in 2004, and he quickly became a leader in quality and innovation. Ulbrich works with more than a dozen growers, mostly on Old Mission Peninsula, to craft his standout lineup of wines. The Island View Vineyard Pinot Blanc makes an excellent case for this variety in the region. It offers deep apple flavor, with notes of Meyer lemon, almond, and a mineral backbone. The wine balances bright acidity with a generous body. Where Pinot Grigio can be a forgettable, serviceable wine, this bottle is a memorable one. Could this be one of the best Pinot Blanc bottlings in America?

Stranger Wine Company Pinot Noir 2022 Lake Michigan Shore ($35)

Owners Maxx Eichberg and Sidney Finan opened the winery in 2021, and it produces wines with minimal intervention and a focus on sustainable farming. Its Pinot Noir has a juicy midpalate, satiny tannins, and a supple finish. It sings with notes of cranberry, orange peel, Balaton cherry, and bright, fresh acidity. It’s one of those bottles that begs you for another sip. With ripe fruit and only 12.75% ABV, it goes down dangerously fast.

Mari Vineyard Gamay Noir 2023, Old Mission Peninsula ($34)

Mari’s Sean O’Keefe thinks Gamay might be the best red variety suited to Old Mission Peninsula’s climate. Cranberry, black cherry, and purple plum skin wrap lead to a bright, peppery finish. Balanced yet zippy acidity makes this bottle ideal alongside a wide range of food, from meaty salmon and burgers to heartily spiced vegetarian fare.

Left Foot Charley Blaufränkisch 2023, Old Mission Peninsula ($28)

Bryan Ulbrich sees enormous promise in Austria’s Blaufränkisch on Old Mission Peninsula. His variation, only 11.3% ABV in this vintage, comes across as fresh and feisty. It’s very aromatic, from peppery to violets, with some plum and seedy raspberry fruit to round things out. It has enough oomph to cut through any rich cut of meat, but it also wouldn’t get in the way of a peppered pork loin.

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