Yahoo Lifestyle Loewe Fall 2025: A Still-life Presentation, Full of Life
A day before Loewe’s fall presentation, Jonathan Anderson posted on his personal Instagram account a spirited two-and-a-half-minute video montage of highlights from his 11 years at the creative helm: runway clips, scenes of basket weaving, Rihanna rocking the Super Bowl, and Jennifer Coolidge and other celebrities willfully mispronouncing the Spanish brand.
Naturally, it added kerosine to the firestorm of speculation that Anderson is leaving, or has already left Loewe, though nothing has been made official.
More from WWD
Never mind that the designer’s destination post-Loewe and his successors are as widely known in fashion circles as — hint, hint — Saddle and PS1 bags: On with the show!
Fans of Wang Yibo, Yang Mi and other Asian stars coagulated behind barriers outside the venue on Rue de l’Université, the longtime home of the late Karl Lagerfeld, which had been set up like an exhibition, artworks, design objects and crafts mingling with the women’s and men’s collections, presented on mannequins.
Anderson’s inimitable design language and cultural intelligence informed every square inch of the sprawling display, in which giant tomatoes, an apple and a pumpkin by Anthea Hamilton brought a surreal touch to 17 opulent rooms of the palatial 18th-century mansion.
The designer was not present during the presentation Monday morning, but word has it he came twice to inspect and fine-tune the installation of his coed collection, conceived as a “scrapbook of ideas” and taking in a collaboration with the Josef & Anni Albers Foundation on clothing and leather goods.
The lack of a Loewe runway show, usually among the most electrifying of the week, left a palpable hole in the Paris schedule. Yet the still-life format worked for this collection, skewed to sculptural designs: windblown peacoats in molded leather; a trapeze-shaped field jacket, and baseball T-shirts shaped like capes with their supersized raglan sleeves — and that was just the menswear.
Softer menswear designs — including tartan mohair coats with knotted scarves for sleeves, and knitted suits with striped lapels with David Hockney airs — were displayed on vintage chairs.
The women’s collection included handsome leather coats fronted with bibs of cotton shirting; draped and shirred jersey gowns with a perfume of the Roaring ’20s, and colorful cocktail dresses assembled with swooping strands of beaded organza that evoked fiber-optic cables.
The workmanship was staggering: Josef Albers’ “Homage to the Square” paintings transposed perfectly onto intricately pleated skirts and dresses, as well as Flamenco, Squeeze and Amazona bags. Meanwhile, printed cellophane was sliced into tiny fringe and layered over a houndstooth robe coat, giving it a silvery, 3D aspect that was beguiling.
A tour of the presentation concluded with elements from the brand’s immersive “Crafted World” exhibition, which is opening in Tokyo later this month after a successful run in Shanghai in early 2024.
The house of Loewe, and Anderson it seems, are on the move.
Launch Gallery: Loewe Fall 2025 Ready-To-Wear Collection
Best of WWD
Sign up for WWD's Newsletter. For the latest news, follow us on Facebook, Twitter, and Instagram.
