Fabulous Fringe, Playful Paisley, and More Bold Looks from Milan Fashion Week

The overall mood of the collections at Milan Fashion Week was that of modernity and rememberance As the fashion industry and the ancient city it inhabits continues to change over the years at a break neck pace designers took note and delivered clothes that spoke to the time honored traditions and craftsmanship that have made Milanese fashion stand out from the rest of the world with it's unapologetic glamour and feminity but at the same time designer's also pushed their creative forward to further compete with the ever morphing tastes of the world.

Donatella Versace vehemently declared that her family's design DNA is impossible to ignore, and so are her contributions with a vivacious collection that sent a shot of adrenaline through the audience's veins. Dean and Dan Caten of DSquared2 celebrate 30 years in the business with an over-the-top affair and with clothes to match, while David Koma and Alberto Caliri made their forward-thinking debuts at Blumarine and Missoni, respectively, pushing both storied brands into the now. Elsewhere, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons had models walk through three stories of scaffolding in nostalgic yet fashion-forward clothes that reflected how women are built up and broken down by society. In contrast, Max Mara championed "Untamed Heroines" from classic novels, except these heroines were clad in the most sumptuous of clothes that had a perfect confidence to them.

Ahead are InStyle's picks for the best looks from Milan Fashion Week fall/winter 2025.

Gucci

Gucci kicked off Milan Fashion Week with a collection created by its in-house design team dedicated to the concept of "sprezzatura"—the perfectly imperfect, a studied effortlessness. This took form in '60s Hitchcock-inspired silhouettes in super saturated colors and rich textures. Boxy coats were thrown over sequined cocktail skirts, scarves wrapped over model's hair, and neon tights worn with more subdued shades gave the collection a sense of chic carefreeness that was a refreshing turn for the brand. 

N.21

Set in a bare, concrete space with Radiohead's "Creep" blaring overhead, the N.21 fall collection was a study in the balance between hard and soft. Clean, minimal silhouettes were given a feminine flare with Victorian embroidery, flared skirts, and feathers. As for the shoes, models walked out in heels wrapped in a wonderful silk bow treatment. And why did all the models wear bows? It's because "The bow is an intrusive construction that may appear awkward if set on clean lines. However, it is also an element that creates the allure of surprise," said creative director Allesandro Dell'Acqua.

Alberta Ferretti

Newly appointed creative director Lorenzo Serafini introduced his vision for Alberta Ferretti after being hand selected to take over from the brand's founder. Serafini showcased a collection that embodied a sense of "progressive romanticism" by way of wearable pieces that had dreamy details like knitted sets with tulle bubble hems, relaxed suiting with ruffled trains, and gowns with sequined, bias-cut bodices. You could a both a romantic figure from the past or a modern day jet-setter make waves in these clothes.

DSquared2

Thirty years in the business is no small feat, so to celebrate their momentous milestone, brothers Dean and Dan Caten of DSquared2 went all out for their fall runway show. The show started with a bang with Grammy award-winning rapper Doechii walking out in a corseted puffer coat hybrid, and things only got wilder from there as supermodels like Irina Shayk, Alex Consani, Amelia Grey, and Naomi Campbell stomped down the runway in bold, sexy looks that proved DSquared2 remains as fearless and fashion forward as ever.

Jil Sander

For Lucie and Luke Meier's last collection for Jil Sander, the design duo served up twisted takes on wardrobe classics. Standouts included silken floral printed car coats with an ombré treatment that made them look soaked in water, shirts and trousers creased to look as if they came straight out their packaging, and plastic fringe that gave pieces a fabulous flourish. The Meiers's ability to breathe new life into the storied brand can't be praised enough. After delivering such a strong final collection, what awaits the future of Jil Sander fills us with giddy excitement.

Diesel

Models at the Diesel show walked through a graffitied wonderland made by an art collective of around 7,000 amateur and expert graffiti artists, complete with a centerpiece of giant inflatable figures intertwined with one another. This rave haven served as the perfect backdrop to Martens's mad mix of a collection that included shirts and biker jackets molded into wrinkled forms, latex shaped into cable knit sweaters, and skirts and jeans that were cut so low at the waist they looked as if they melted off the models.

Max Mara

"Untamed heroines" were the inspiration at Max Mara, where models marched down the runway in luxurious, unapologetically romantic, and wearable separates. The Max Mara heroine was presented to be one that isn't afraid to embrace the finer things in life in shades of berry reds, mossy greens, and autumnal neutrals, complete with charismatic cashmere coats, cropped capes, sumptuous separates, and even a velvet bustier worn over a knitted catsuit. The layered looks were cinched with leather belts that wrapped around the waist like a Japanese obi, giving them a center focus.

Blumarine

David Koma's first runway collection for Blumarine was inspired by the "cinematic fantasy founded in the dark exoticism of Sicily and the intriguing exuberance of the women who inhabit it on screen and off. This resulted in a high-octane collection full of steamy looks that included silver metal bras worn underneath sheer poet blouses, denim with cut-out petals, foxy florals, and white bustier dresses that would leave Italian icons like Monica Bellucci and Madonna in awe.

Prada

At Prada, models zigzagged through three flights of scaffolding in daring clothes representing Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons's vision of how women's femininity is built and broken down. Familiar pieces like a crewneck sweater were transformed into boxy dresses, while men's boxer shorts became skirts, and floral paper doll-like dresses were rescaled to oversized proportions that almost leaped away from the body. Fancy adornment through dangling geometric charms, brooch buttons, and knitted jeweled collars added whimsy to the complexity of the chic collection.

Emporio Armani

Mr. Armani played his hand at a collection inspired by the patterns of playing cards, complete with a full house of hearts, diamonds, clubs, and spades. Models were decked out to look like haute harlequins with pocket squares, balloon pants, and dresses that were covered in flowy chiffon card prints. Rich velvet evening wear and laxed day suiting grounded the more playful pieces. The end result was an ace in the hole.

MM6 Maison Margiela

The mysterious design crew at MM6 Maison Margiela synthesised the brand's ethos into a tight, wearable yet totally Margiela mix of classic silhouettes updated with an edgy flare. Padded shoulders on leather biker jackets, tailored suits, and dresses gave models a look reminiscent to Sean Young in Blade Runner, while super sheer tops and sheaths worn over knitted garments gave the underpieces a unique squished, air-sealed quality.

Roberto Cavalli

Fausto Puglisi served up hot, hot heat at Roberto Cavalli with a collection inspired by the eruption of Mount Vesuvius. It's hard to imagine how one could make the plight of Pompeii pretty, but somehow, Puglisi accomplished just that with burnout velvets and molten lava prints that made volcanic imagery look vivacious. Other pieces, like a red mini dress covered in square sequins that mimicked a mosaic and large cameo jewelry depicting ancient warriors, further paid homage to the famous Italian site.

Etro

The Italain Bohohemian spirit is alive and well at Marco de Vincenzo’s Etro, where the creative continues to conjure up marvelous mixes of prints, textures, and references. Etro’s signature paisley prints popped up on embroidery on ‘70s flared jeans, macro prints on plaid suits, and in silken, pleated mini dresses, giving the swirly print a new life. Giant fuzzy trapper hats and shearling collar vests gave clothes a wild energy, while medallion-like chainmail and sequined evening gowns glimmered with glamour.

Sportmax

The message at Sportmax is that fringe is back in full swing for the fall season as long, languorous strips of leather hung from nearly every piece as necklines, hems, heels, gloves, bags, and well, you get the picture, were covered with the fabulous finishing. As models walked the runway, the fringe gave them a frenetic energy that added excitement to the tailored suits, cushy coats, and knitted dresses that we are eager to wear in full swing.

Tod's

As guests entered the Tod’s show, they were greeted by an art installation by Nelly Agassi, who created a giant, sculptural dress made from leather strips and worn by none other than a '90s supermodel and former first lady of France, Carla Bruni. This showcase of artisanal appreciation was shown throughout the collection as creative director Matteo Tamburini turned out look after look of sensious pieces such as luxurious nappa leathers, cravable coats, and super supple materials. 

Moschino

If one show in Milan always delivers on the promise of being cheeky and chic, it’s Moschino. Creative director Adrian Appiolaza applied the brand’s signature whimsy to garments that looked like walking dress forms, subverting expectations of what we expect from a finished collection. Raw, exposed hems made clothes look as if they were still in the early stages of their construction, headresses varied from couch cushions to belts wrapped around a forehead while pin cushions and polaroids of jewelry were fixed where one would normally find a piece of bijoux. As an extra treat, there were handbags made to look like Pepperidge Farm’s famous Milano cookie bags except with Moschino on the label, naturally.

Sunnei

According to their shownotes, the takeaway message from Simone Rizzo and Loris Messina of Sunnei is that they’re here to run a business—and a successful one at that. Their fall collection was about stripping fashion down to its transactional core, providing onlookers with pieces that emerged from a “concept free zone”. While you could imagine most pieces being bought up at a department store, there was still plenty of individuality in the pieces with highlighter hues, pants with apron-like skirts attached to them, and sculpted felted tops that gave the body a new form.

Missoni

What made this season’s Missoni show so memorable was that the key to the collection was items designed for “real situations and moments”. After several seasons of out-of-this-world shapes and makes, the brand’s newly appointed Creative director Alberto Caliri made a return to the brand’s roots with designs, delivering a collection of highly wearable pieces that combined countryside knits and Studio 54 disco decadence. Missoni’s signature pattern made its mark on many of the clothes, making us yearn to envelope ourselves in those zesty zigzags.

Versace

Donatella Versace brought some much-needed va-va-voom to the week with a collection that wasn't concerned with "Following any rules. Only the rules of the Versace DNA," as she wrote on her Instagram. There was a real return to the fantastic with this collection, featuring looks made from duvets that were anything but dainty, bold Barocco prints plastered suits and separates while dresses came in silken tiers, shredded chainmail, and gravity-defying shapes. As models struttered down the runway for the finale, Lady Gaga's "Abracadabra" blared overhead, reminding onlookers of the stylish spell Donatella has been able to cast over us throughout the years.

Ferrari

While the Italian luxury sports car manufacturer has made a name for itself in the racing world, it's also speeding its way to the front of the fashion pack with chic and cool ready-to-wear collections that symbolize the style savvy the brand has become synonymous with. With his latest collection, Creative director Rocco Iannone wanted to edit things at Ferrari down to their essence. This resulted in an ultra-luxe offering of sharp '80s office wear, quilted dresses that looked like they were made from car upholstery, and high-gloss leather pieces covered in car-wash-like fringe.

Ferragamo

It's time we give Ferragamo's creative director, Maximilian Davis, the flowers he so rightfully deserves as one of Milan's most talented designers, if not the entire industry. After all, who else would have models saunter down a runway covered in rose petals, decked out in designs that redefined their familiar forms? There were wow-worthy coats with the brand's "Hug" bags cleverly built into them, fabulously feathered sheaths swathed with silk capes, and generous suiting that defied gender. To close things out, Davis created long-sleeved mesh gowns sprouting head to toe with rose appliqués that hung from dangling fringed vines.

Fendi

Silvia Venturini Fendi celebrated five generations and 100 years of the house of Fendi with a fantastic collection that didn't look towards the past but instead looked at what the brand represents today. That meant models walked out with joyous confidence in clothes that would make anyone's head turn. Coats were heavily adorned with gemstone embellishments, tops and skirts were given a flouncy finish, and jaw-dropping craftsmanship was on full display with intricately worked leathers and knits.

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