Carly Mark Is Ready to Enjoy Puppets and Puppets Fall 2024, Not Dread It

Brooke Frischer

13 February 2024 at 11:05 am·4-min read

Since launching the Puppets and Puppets label in 2018, designer Carly Mark has become a favorite amongst the fashion crowd. Particularly for her kooky designs like gowns made to look like a stretched canvas, fried egg bras and puppy-printed jacquard coats. Though these often fun-filled pieces have made their way to the cool kids of fashion (Julia Fox, Ella Emhoff and Alana Hadid are fans) and the mannequins of Bergdorf Goodman, it hasn't been enough to keep the brand's ready-to-wear business afloat.

"This season isn't going into production, unfortunately. I can't afford to put this into production. I was halfway through designing the collection when I kind of realized what was going on, but I wanted to see it through because I love what I do," Mark told Fashionista backstage at her Fall 2024 (and possibly last) runway show. "I'm really happy, but I'm also feeling very melancholic."

There was a palpable sadness throughout the collection and the crowd gathered to see it. Dark colors, torn fabric and models who seemed to be given a direction to look on-edge made for an overwhelmingly moody atmosphere. Many of the models were gripping parts of the clothing to keep the looks together or keep them from falling down, an act that feels somewhat metaphorical for Mark's experience in the fashion industry.

<p>Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight</p> — Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Though the gripping is open to a variety of interpretations, the most accurate, according to Mark, would be that it's an homage to her deep love of New York.

"When it's cold out and I'm walking around this city, I got my Balenciaga on and I'm gripping it tight. I am very much a New York woman and I'm getting from place to place," Mark declares. "I'm getting on the train and I'm walking my dog, but I'm looking cute and sexy and I'm doing it my way," says Mark. "I'm gripping because it's windy. So I wanted the collection to feel like me. I wanted it to feel confident but I also wanted it to feel real."

As much as Mark identifies as a "New York woman," she recently revealed her plans to move to London in an interview with The New York Times. "Again, I love (New York), but I'm ready to spread my wings," she explained backstage. The designer's future plans are to build on the success of Puppets and Puppets accessories, she tells Fashionista. As much as Mark has built a fandom on her ready-to-wear designs, the label's most commercial accomplishment has been its object-adorned handbags — more specifically, its Cookie Bags.

"I'm developing new styles of our bags all the time. As much as I'm going to miss ready-to-wear for now, it leaves so much room for me to develop shoes and design more bags or do more jewelry. None of my accessory (production) is going to change," says Mark. "My accessories sell so well but the process is also amazing...It's all kind of clicked into place in the most beautiful way."

See all the looks from Puppets and Puppets Fall 2024 below.