Yahoo Lifestyle Beauty Editors Won't Stop Talking About This New Long-Lasting Manicure
As a beauty editor living in New York City, I consider myself very in the know. I'm the first to try the makeup trends on NYFW runways, I get a res at all of the up-and-coming bars and restaurants, and I've probably already been to whatever workout studio or spa is going viral on TikTok (like, months ago, tbh). So when a few beauty editor friends of mine were hemming and hawing about a new manicure spot downtown that offers Japanese gel nails, I immediately had to know: What's a Japanese manicure and when tf can I get an appointment?
I've tried shellac nails, dip powder nails, gel-X, Russian manicures—basically all the manicure options out there. But I was more intrigued by Japanese gel than anything else in a long time because it's allegedly better for your nails, lasts longer than traditional gels, and looks super shiny and smooth too. But is it actually better and worth the higher cost? I have thoughts! Keep reading for all the info straight from two nail artists, as well as a detailed review of the Japanses gel mani I got done at Mellow Bar in Soho.
What are Japanese gel nails?
Japanese gel nails utilize a different type of gel than what we typically get at the nail salon (or DIY at home) in the U.S. Typically, these gels are made in Japan, and they come in a pot or jar, says nail artist Paola Ponce. FYI, this was the original method of application for gel polish, but the American market quickly put them in standard nail polish bottles for faster application, whereas Japanese artists have preserved this method, says Ponce.
The biggest difference in the formula is that Japanese gel is usually solvent-free, meaning it technically isn't actually a "gel polish"as we know it, says Ponce. "Gel polish is a hybrid gel consisting of resin and the use of 'polish'-like ingredients, most often solvents," she says. Solvents are like acetone—they're really strong and evaporate quickly, meaning it could lead to quicker chipping, can change the consistency of your gel over time, and can dry out your nails, she adds. "Solvents are not bad," she says. "However, gels that don't incorporate them are more durable." Because of this (and a few other reasons that I'll get into), Japanese gel is typically longer lasting and thought to be healthier for your nails. Which brings us to...
Is a Japanese manicure good for your nails?
A Japanese manicure could potentially be better for your nails than a standard gel manicure. "Damage to the nail often occurs by the prep to the natural nail and the removal of the product," says Ponce. Most Japanese gel nail systems don't require a nail dehydrator before applying the base coat, which eliminates a step that's significantly drying, explains Ponce. You still have to clean your nail bed with 90 percent alcohol, she says, but that alone doesn't lead to damage to your nails. You also don't have to buff or file the nail plate down, she adds. Instead, the gel adheres to your natural nails easily and most brands offer sanding-free bases.
But! It's important to keep in mind that when applied, cured, and removed correctly, all gel nail types aren't inherently unhealthy for your nails, says nail artist Julie Kandalec.
What is the difference between gel and Japanese gel nails?
Regular gel (aka what we are used to using at salons and at home) and Japanese gel are fairly different for a lot of reasons. Japanese gel is usually in a pot or jar, instead of the more commonly seen bottles, says Kandalec. Because of this, your artist will dip a brush into the pot and apply in thin layers on your nail versus a brush inside a bottle. Typically, this makes the formula seem more pigmented on your nails, since the layers are a bit thinner. However, the actual gel itself is more viscous, explains Ponce, making it great for creating extensions, filling in ridges, or overall making your nails look super smooth. This can also help with longevity and chipping, since the nail feels a bit harder and less prone to breaking.
Another major difference is how the product is removed. Japanese gel is a bit thicker than standard gel polishes, so it has to be filed down quite a bit to be fully soaked off. Typically, artists, like Ponce, recommend "rebalancing," aka filing the gel down thin and reapplying new gel on top. Typically, she only removes the gel fully when a client is taking a break from gel in general. This is entirely unlike traditional gel manis, where you remove and redo your gel every single time.
With all of the above in mind, Japanese gel at the salon can take a bit longer. Think: An hour, versus 45 minutes, for example. It also might cost $10 to $15 more. (Expect a full manicure to be anywhere from $65 to $90 depending on your location, the salon, if you get art, etc.).
How long does the Japanese manicure last?
A Japanese gel manicure should last a minimum of three weeks, says Ponce, "but often the product stays on until you're ready to redo the nails again." Peep my review below to see if this happened for me (spoiler: It mostly did).
Can you do a Japanese gel manicure at home?
Yes, you can, so long as you have all the right tools and products. But that's not exactly easy for the standard person, let alone a professional, says Kandalec. "Many sites require us to register and show proof of licensing first, and the top Japanese lines are not available on Amazon," she explains. So if you wanna try, go for it, but probs just leave it to the pros.
My review:
About my nails:
I'm a recovering gel extension user, and my nail beds have been brutalized, to say the least. Like, they were basically breaking off every second and looked so horrendous, I didn't even wanna put press-on nails on top of them. I knew I wanted to grow my nail nails to a slightly longer length and make them look a teensy bit healthier.
But I've done regular gel a zillion times over the years—usually, they just chip or break in a few days. I'm super hard on my nails—my coworkers comment on how vigorously I pounce my fingers against the keyboard when I'm writing a story, and I pry open a dozen packages a day for my job. Needless to say, I was intrigued but highly skeptical.
The appointment:
I went to Mellow Bar in NYC, which is a hot spot for Japanese gel. The appointment was simple because I didn't have any gel on my nails already, so I didn't require any removal. It took about 45 minutes total, starting with a serious clean-up of my cuticles and shaping and cutting down my nails.
My technician prepped my nails with a base coat, then we immediately went into the polish. Japanese gel works in thin layers, so it was more than I was used to, even for a transparent style. This is why it takes a little bit longer, but it didn't really bother me. I listened to a podcast and enjoyed it. Everything was cured between layers, then, we went over my nails with a top coat to seal it all in. Obvi, we ended with a damn good massage and my nails looked so shiny.
My experience and results:
I tracked the progress of my nails for three weeks to see how they'd fare over time to test the longevity claims on Japanese gel nails (pics below, ofc).
After a week, I was mega impressed. My nails still looked basically perfect, when usually, they'd be a bit dingy at this point. I also already had more growth than normal too. Typically, if I wanted my nails to look amazing forever, this would be annoying. But as I'm trying to grow out my nails a bit rn, this was a welcomed surprise.
The second week, my nails grew so long. I was shocked. And they still hadn't chipped. For a standard gel manicure, this was unreal. I've never had a gel manicure that wasn't gel-X last any longer than two weeks on me. Hell, I'm lucky to get a week and a half. So this was huge. My nails also still looked shiny. I wasn't shying away from posting pics with my hands on IG like I normally would with a grown-out, two-week-old manicure.
By the third week, though, my nails were starting to look a lil worse for wear. My thumb chipped quite a bit (to be fair, I'm in the midst of packing for a move, so my hands are being used for hard labor rn). My growth is also seriously intense. This isn't necessarily a bad thing—I want my nails to grow!—but it doesn't look cute, I'd say.
Final verdict:
I would definitely get Japanese gel again for how healthy it kept my nails. I cannot believe how much my nails have grown in only three weeks. And if I was going on a three-week vacation for some reason and wanted a long-lasting mani that wasn't gel extensions, Japanese gel would absolutely be my pick. It's a little bit more expensive and time-consuming, yes, but it's worth it for how much better my nails feel and the length of time I got out of this one manicure. Consider me influenced.
Meet the experts:
Paola Ponce is a nail artist and educator. She's a certified Japanese gel educator with three of the top brands in Japan and has been specialized in Japanese gel for 10 years.
Julie Kandalec is a celebrity nail artist and educator with her own salon in New York, NY. Her client list includes Jessica Chastain, Joe Jonas, and Emily Blunt. She's also the founder of Julie K Nail Academy where she provides nail education to salons and spas.
Why trust Cosmopolitan?
Beth Gillette is the beauty editor at Cosmopolitan with six years of experience researching, writing, and editing nail stories that range from natural nail designs to Bubble Bath nails. For this story, she tested Japanese gel nails for three weeks, plus interviewed two leading nail experts to get the scoop on what a Japanese manicure is, what makes it different, and if it's healthier.
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