Yahoo Lifestyle 20 ‘Shaped’ Watches Headed to Auction This Fall, From Rolex to Patek Philippe
Fancy a fancy-shaped watch? The fall auction roster is stacked with them, including rare examples from Cartier, Daniel Roth, Rolex, Audemars Piguet, Piaget and Patek Philippe.
The hype over mid-century vintage watches from the 1960s and ’70s tends to overlook the popularity of shaped watches in favor of the iconic dress-watch classics of the era, but irregular-shaped watches were an important sub-category of an era in which watch companies, even sports watch companies, were enthusiastically exploring exaggerated forms and new materials. Some, like vintage watch expert James Lamdin of Analog:Shift have told us these watches are “design forward,” meaning they emphasize shape and materials over mechanical prowess and/or complexity. Whatever you want to call them, they are hot right now as dress watches and small watches make a comback.
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Shaped watches from the era are rare and niche, but they hold their value and seem to be gaining lasting traction among collectors. Our exploration of the largest Piaget collection in North America, owned by dealer Gai Gohari and astutely gathered largely from Italian watch markets, can give you a sense of the appeal of this category in which tonneau, cushion, or “TV-style” cases, as well as ovals, squares, and other eccentric shapes become the reigning feature. That the fall auctions are full of them only highlights the trend.
A perusal through the catalogs of upcoming fall auctions reveals a surprising number of prime examples of shaped watches coming to market. Many are made by Cartier, the champion of shaped watches, but there are also surprising oddities from the likes of Rolex, Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin, most of which were made in very limited editions. They all share a similar design ethos: being unusual without going over the top. There is no excess ornamentation or difficult-to-read “new ways” of keeping time. Their energy comes from the case shape, and a shaped watch can be both outstandingly unusual and reassuringly classic.
Here are 20 elegantly assertive examples of shaped watches from upcoming sales at Sotheby’s, Christie’s, Phillips, Antiquorum and The 1916 Company.
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Daniel Roth Reference 2147
This original Daniel Roth chronograph from 1992 bears the iconic hallmarks of the watchmaker: an ellipsocurvex case and a clous de Paris guilloché dial. This platinum edition contains the iconic Lemania 2320, also known as CH-27 movement that Roth refined and used during his time at Breguet before going independent. Phillips Reloaded, Geneva, November 8, lot 50. Estimate $29,200-58,400.
Audemars Piguet Reference 25643
This wonderfully odd design from 1990 looks like it’s smiling and winking, but it’s no joke. It’s an ultra-thin tourbillon, cased in platinum in an oblong shape with rounded stepped edges and hooded lugs. The dial is a sunray emanating from a tourbillon positioned at 11 o’clock, with alternating rays of mother-of-pearl and metal. Note the dots on the metal to represent hour markers. Phillips Reloaded, Geneva, November 8, lot 43. Estimate $23,300-46,000.
Cartier Crash Tigrée
The Tiger was made in 1922, right around the time the Crash was being universally pronounced as a cultural icon. This one is number 12 of a limited edition of 50 pieces designed in alternating sections of diamonds and champlevé enameling in gradient tones of blue and green, made to resemble tiger stripes. It was sold out at launch. Phillips Geneva Auction XX, November 9-10, lot 128. Estimate $116,000-233,000.
Patek Golden Ellipse Reference 3730
The Golden Ellipse was relaunched earlier this year, putting original models from the 1970s, like this one, back in the spotlight. The Ellipse is Cartier’s Tank, an iconic design with classic staying power. The lugless design is most prized for its onyx dials – this one is thought to be one of seven. Phillips Geneva Auction XX, November 9-10, lot 142. Estimate $17,400-34,900.
Piaget Black Tie Andy Warhol
Known as the Andy Warhol because the artist famously wore one, it is an interesting next-level extension of simply reporting on which celebrities are wearing a brand’s watch or signing on as ambassadors. This example is pure Piaget, with a stepped cushion case and green malachite dial. It was originally designed to house the square-shaped Beta 21 quartz movement, but this modern vintage version is from 202). Phillips Geneva Auction XX, November 9-10, lot 104. Estimate $23,300-46,500.
Cartier Oblong and Concave
This piece, though to be a one of its kind, is evidence of Cartier’s fearless willingness to experiment with odd, off-round shapes. Some become part of the regular production. Others, like this one, are relegated to the world of fabulous rarities that pop up only very occasionally. It was made in 1972 and retailed by Cartier New York. Phillips Geneva Auction XX, November 9-10, lot 125. Estimate $23,300-46,500.
Vacheron Constantin Reference 2215 Chronomètre Royal
This 1975 design with rectangular case and cut corners, was certainly a product of its time. It’s also a standout for its stainless steel case, which was rare back then in a luxury watch. Vacheron combines it with baguette diamond hour markers. Vacheron made fewer than 220 pieces in steel and 50 in yellow gold. Phillips Geneva Auction XX, November 9-10, lot 193. Estimate $17,400-34,900.
Rolex King Midas
The Gerald Genta-designed Rolex King Midas, introduced in 1964, is notable for its asymmetrical case shape and crown on the left. It has been newly elevated to cult status by collectors, and was the inspiration behind the recently launched B/1 by independents Toledano and Chan. Yellow gold watches are having a moment, particularly those with integrated bracelets. Christie’s Rare Watches, Geneva, November 11, lot 81. Estimate CHF 10,000-20,000.
Vacheron Constantin Haute Joaillerie
This rarity from 1977 hails from an era when even sports watch brands were experimenting with geometric designs and fancy shapes, but the trend excelled the most in the category of ladies’ jeweled watches. This one is liberally set with 240 baguette diamonds on the case and bracelet. Christie’s Rare Watches, Geneva, November 11, lot 84. Estimate CHF 30,000-50,000.
Patek Philippe Rhomboid 3
This rare, double-signed model made in 1962 and was retailed by Gübelin. With a rare, asymmetrical tonneau shape, it was made in a series of approximately 90 pieces only in yellow gold. The minimalist, pie-slice dial is also quite unusual for Patek. Christie’s Rare Watches, Geneva, November 11, lot 87. Estimate CHF 80,000-160,000.
Cartier Asymetrique
The Asymetrique is one of the brand’s rarest shaped watches, but a skeletonized model, in platinum is even rarer. This manual-wound model was part of a limited edition of 100 made in 2020. Christie’s Rare Watches, Geneva, November 11, lot 120. Estimate CHF 25,000-50,000.
Piaget Beta 21
The Beta 21 was among the series of Switzerland’s first quartz movements, the result of a collaboration between some 20 Swiss brands, including Patek Philippe, Piaget, Rolex and Omega. This model is classic Piaget, with an onyx dial and a stepped, rectangular case with rounded corners and edges, all in 18k gold. Sotheby’s Important Watches, Geneva, November 10, lot 101. Estimate CHF 16,000-28,000.
Audemars Piguet Beta 21
AP’s interpretation of the Beta 21 takes a similar case shape, without the stepped sides, and a similarly integrated bracelet. This one was made a little later, in 1976, by which time Audemars had moved on to making steel watches. It was a later version of the movement, with the addition of a date function, and was AP’s first quartz watch. Sotheby’s Important Watches, Geneva, November 10, lot 102. Estimate CHF 20,000-40,000.
Cartier Tank Oblique
This yellow gold shaped watch was made in 1970 by Cartier’s London atelier, which often used the term “oblique” instead of “asymetrique.” Sotheby’s believes it is the only Cartier London Ultra Slim Oblique to come to auction. Sotheby’s Important Watches, Geneva, November 10, lot 65. Estimate CHF 30,000-60,000.
Piaget Reference 98481 C10
From the prong setting to the teardrop-shaped dial, this is one of the most unusual case shapes made by Piaget, but the integrated bracelet with the horizontal grooved motif is pure Piaget. The design heralds the famous Polo, which came along a few years later. This model, made in 1974, houses the legendary 9P movement. Sotheby’s Important Watches, Geneva, November 10, lot 121. Estimate CHF 10,000-20,000.
Cartier Tank Crash
Sotheby’s defines this as a Tank Crash, not to be confused with the usual Crash, which is often described as the Baignoire Crash. In other words, it’s as if a Tank got run over by a car, rather than a Baignoire. This pink gold model with a quartz movement was made circa 2010. If you want to change the strap, that’ll be a custom order. Sotheby’s Important Watches, Geneva, November 10, lot 122. Estimate CHF 20,000-30,000.
Minerva Monopusher Chronograph
Minerva, a small workshop located in the village of Villeret in the Swiss Jura, is known for making watches by hand, including hairsprings. Owned by Montblanc, the brand’s heritage is making chronographs. Many of its modern pieces are still made by hand. This 1940s manual chronograph is “new old stock.” Antiquorum, Geneva, November 9-10, lot 5. Estimate $1,200-2,400.
LeCoultre Memovox Polaris Ref. E870A
This out-of-round Memovox from 1972 is a later interpretation of this model, first launched in 1968 and produced until the early 1970s. It’s steel, with a signed dial, case and movement. Antiquorum, Geneva, November 9-10, lot 5. Estimate $5,800-9,300.
Roger Dubuis Sympathie Perpetual Calendar S34
This 18k rose gold piece is a bi-retrograde perpetual calendar, with day and date on retrograde scales at 3 and 9 o’clock. Aside from the brand’s signature Sympathie case, it is has a curiously nostalgic theme, since judging from the marques at 12 o’clock, it seems to have been made to celebrate the millennium. Listed on The 1916 Company/WatchBox at $41,950.
Vacheron Constantin 1972
The 1972 was a hit when it launched (in 1972) and remained a bestseller until well into the ’90s. The company’s Plan-les-Ouates manufacture near Geneva was designed in the same shape as the asymmetrical case. This 18k white gold one, with a quartz movement, is liberally paved with diamonds on the large bezel. Listed on The 1916 Company/WatchBox at $13,950.
