Yahoo Lifestyle Shopping Time: 5 Square Watches to Buy Right Now, From Patek Philippe to A. Lange & Söhne
We are always scouring the web for the most amazing watches currently available, and each Friday Shopping Time shares five standout timepieces with you.
On the heels of the controversial release of the Patek Philippe Cubitus—about which we have had rather mixed thoughts ranging from straight criticism to a conversation with its creator—we thought it was a good time to get into the world of square watches and see what’s out there on the pre-owned market.
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Conventionally shaped round watches are often viewed as more practical for their versatility, but rectangular cases have their time and place. They may not always be top of mind—the Cartier Tank being the only true hit in the genre—but there exists a plethora of beautiful right-angled watches that offer their own unique experience on the wrist.
The very best (or certainly most interesting) even feature movements designed explicitly for these cases—which was just one of the criticism of the Cubitus, though we digress. Nonetheless, the very idea of a a square movement says something about the level of dedication to the format, and for serious collectors a movement that was clearly built to support the overall design is always a sign of excellence.
Today, we’ve curated a selection of these watches that define the segment in the best possible way, from Patek Philippe to Cartier, Vacheron Constantin and more.
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Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Gyrotourbillon 2 | $119,950
When most of us think of a rectangular watch, it’s the Jaeger-LeCoutlre Reverso that immediately comes to mind. This watch is an art deco icon from the 1930s that was reborn in the 1970s, existing today much as it was originally envisioned. Designed with a reversible housing meant to protect the dial of the watch during polo matches, the Reverso’s unique feature set now hosts all manner of configurations, including the brand’s most complex horological underpinnings, such as their multi-axis tourbillon called the Gyrotourbillon, as seen here. This is the very definition of a bespoke rectangular timepiece.
This is the Reverso Gyrotourbillon 2, and it represents the first appearance of the dual axis Gyrotourbillon within the Reverso collection. Introduced in 2008, this was the second watch to feature the unique tourbillon, and the unusual shape presented a unique challenge. The Gyrotourbillon uses the caliber 174, with a cylindrical balance spring set within a spherical cage rotating on two axes set at a 90-degree angle, the first cage makes a rotation in about 19 seconds, while the second rotates in the usual 60 seconds. The result is one of the most dramatic views in all of watchmaking. This example comes to us from The 1916 Company, and is in near perfect condition. Just 75 of these were produced, making this a rare opportunity to own a piece of watchmaking history.
A. Lange & Söhne Cabaret | $21,850
The Cabaret is one of the finest rectangular watches to come out of Germany from none other than A. Lange & Söhne. While no longer in production, this watch represents the brand’s typical attention to detail, and ties back to their re-launch in 1994 when they introduced the rectangular Arkade. The Cabaret uses the brand’s iconic big date complication placed at the top of the dial, balanced by a running subsidiary seconds at the bottom of the dial. The stepped case makes just as big of a statement as the dial, and houses a rectangular shaped manually winding movement, the L931.3, developed explicitly for this watch. This is how you do a rectangular watch.
This example, listed by Analog Shift, features a rose gold case and black dial, making for a rather dramatic presence on the wrist. The case itself measures just 26mm across, and is a surprisingly comfortable shape on the wrist. This watch, which dates to 2001, is listed in fantastic conditions with only light signs of wear, and comes as a full kit, including the original hang tag. At one point, this watch was emblematic of the ‘90s, however, attitudes are beginning to shift and fully appreciate the Cabaret as the exceptional watch that it is, and we expect prices will continue to move north as a result.
Cartier Santos Or Massif 2960 “Gordon Gekko” | $24,900
We can’t have a list of rectangular watches without including the original from Cartier, and this is a special example that exemplifies the true character of the design. The Santos utilizes a complex and beautiful case design that dates back to 1904, where it became the first commercially sold wrist watch for men. The watch was commissioned by Brazilian pilot, Alberto Santos-Dumont, and the design from Cartier remains just as compelling and unique today, well over 100 years later. The Santos has been produced in a wide range of configurations, but if you ask us, it doesn’t get much better than this Or Massif reference 2960.
This is the watch worn by the fictional Gordon Gekko as portrayed by Michael Douglas in Oliver Stone’s 1987 film, Wall Street. With that, this Santos certainly passes the vibe check, and this particular example, which comes to us from Wind Vintage, is in exemplary condition. Cartier proclaims this the Or Massif, or mass of gold, right on the box, and that’s exactly what we find here in what appears to be unpolished condition. This represents one of the best versions of one of history’s most important watches.
Patek Philippe Gondolo 5124 | $21,875
The Gondolo represents an unlikely bit of Patek Philippe history. One of the most prolific watch retailers of the late 19th century was Gondolo & Labouriau, based in Brasil’s then vibrant capital city of Rio de Janeiro. While the full story has many threads, what’s important here is the birth of so-called clubs (perhaps early enthusiast groups?) that allowed for ownership of a suddenly thriving Swiss watch industry. The importance of this retailer to the survival of Patek Philippe prior to being sold to the Stern family can’t be overstated, and the existence of the Gondolo collection is testament to that fact.
The Gondolo has taken many forms over its lifetime, but the most distinctive of the bunch are the rectangular case references, such as this modern 5124. This reference used an art deco style case that measures 33 mm across. This example is rendered in white gold paired to a salmon colored dial with Breguet style Arabic numerals. This configuration was discontinued to make way for a new design released in 2015, but there’s an old school charm that was lost in translation along the way. This is a perfect example of the Gondolo with classic Patek Philippe hallmarks.
Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921 – $29,400
Okay, so this watch does not boast perfect 90-degree angles, but the cushion shaped case is close enough to a square to merit inclusion here, thanks mostly to the crown placement directly at the corner of the case. This is an all-time classic design that dates back to the early 20th century, as the name suggests, made unique not only for the shape of the case, but for the orientation of the dial which has been rotated 45-degrees clockwise, placing the 12 o’clock where you’d typically expect to the read 1:30. Vacheron Constantin re-introduced this iconic design in 2009, and this Historiques American 1921 represents a modern peak of this DNA.
This Historiques American 1921 is listed by European Watch Company, and dates to 2021. This example is in like new condition, with a white gold case that measures 36.5mm in diameter, and a mere 8mm in thickness thanks to the manually winding caliber 4400 AS. The beautifully finished movement is visible through an exhibition caseback, and while not perfectly shaped to the case, it is nonetheless easy on the eyes, as you’d expect from a movement bearing the Geneva Hallmark. This is a quintessential Vacheron Constantin design, and one of the most unique on-wrist experiences you’d likely to come across.
Please note that we are not affiliated with the sellers of the watches we recommend. We may point out aspects of a listing that we feel are positive, but only you can vet a seller. We can recommend viewing our video “How to Collect It: Vintage Watches” to glean some best practices, however.
