What Is Raw Denim and How Is It Different From Regular Jeans?

It’s a denim staple for a reason.

As any denim enthusiast knows, jeans are not all the same. Not only are there different cuts and silhouettes to choose from, but washes can also range from dark indigo to a faded light blue. When shopping for jeans, it’s important to know the subtle differences between the various designs so you end up with an item you love (and won’t accidentally shrink in the wash).

This year, dark indigo hues are trending, giving raw denim a new spotlight in the fashion cycle. But if that term just raised your eyebrows, don't fret. Raw denim just refers to the material in its purest form, meaning it hasn’t been washed or treated during production. Whether you reach for raw denim baggy jeans or a classic straight-leg pair, this type of denim goes with everything while still making for a statement look.

If you’re new to the concept of raw denim, you might be wondering whether it is worth adding to your wardrobe. So, we tapped Taj Garmon, the global designer for Lee Men’s, to break down all the details of raw denim, including care tips and overall fit.

What Is Raw Denim?

“Raw denim means that the denim fabric has not been washed or touched water during the production cycle, making them stiffer,” says Garmon. “Over time, this stiffness will soften and mold itself to the wearer’s unique body shape.” While raw denim starts with a deep indigo hue, he says that the dye will fade over time, which will lead to a “one-of-a-kind whisker pattern and abrasion that is unique” for a personalized pair of jeans.

Raw denim can also be categorized into two types: sanforized and unsanforized. Garmon explains that sanforized raw denim does go through a “chemical process to reduce its ability to shrink,” while unsanforized raw denim doesn’t receive any treatment at all to prevent shrinking.

How Long Does It Take to Break In Raw Denim?

All denim takes a few wears to break in, but due to its stiffer structure, raw denim takes slightly longer to go through this process. “It could take between one to several months to fully break in raw denim, dependent on the number of wears,” explains Garmon. “The longer the break-in period, the better the raw denim can relax and let the fabric develop its unique wear patterns.”

If you want your raw denim to mold to your body better, Garmon recommends wearing your garment before putting it in the wash. However, if you prefer a prewash, he says to wear your jeans in a warm shower. This will help wash away any excess indigo dye off your raw denim, as Garmon says that just “soaking can cause it to redeposit.”

How to Care For Raw Denim

When it comes to caring for raw denim, there are a few important steps to follow. While you may wash most of your jeans after a few wears, Garmon recommends washing raw denim every two to six months. “The first time you wash your pair of raw denim, first soak the pair in lukewarm water with a teaspoon of gentle detergent for 30 to 60 minutes,” he says. “After that, air dry until it feels slightly damp.”

Before pulling on your freshly laundered raw denim, Garmon says you want your jeans to still be slightly damp so they can finish air drying while on your body. All future cleanings should be done using the hand washing method before laying the raw denim flat to dry or hanging it outside to preserve the quality of your jeans.

With raw denim, you also want to be cautious of color transfer, as excess indigo dye can be on the surface of your garment. Garmon recommends putting down a blanket before sitting down on light-colored furniture and rolling up your jeans if you’re wearing a pair of white shoes. “Indigo doesn’t penetrate to the center of the yarn; it sits on top,” he says. “The darker the denim, the better chance of crocking. After a few washes, you should be good, but I always err on the side of precaution.”

How Does Raw Denim Fit?

Don’t be alarmed if the first time you put on raw denim it feels slightly snug, that’s just the nature of the stiff textile. “Raw denim should fit true to size with a small amount of room at the waist to account for shrinkage,” says Garmon. “It feels stiff because it hasn’t gone through any processes that give it a soft hand.”

As you wear and wash your raw denim, he says that it will shrink and soften, shaping itself to your body over time for a more comfortable fit. Just be patient.

Benefits of Shopping Raw Denim

According to Garmon, there are a few reasons why you might want to shop for raw denim over other types. “A benefit of raw denim is knowing that with that constant wear, you’ll have a pair of jeans that fits and feels authentic to your sense of style,” says Garmon. Another benefit? Raw denim is meticulously crafted. “The machines that create raw selvage denim are old,” explains Garmon. “They require constant attention and are operated by skilled artisans that have been working in this industry for a long time.”

The only con of investing in a pair of raw denim is that it can take several months for you to reach your desired fit. However, Garmon says that the “process, though long, will result in a pair of jeans truly unique to you to be enjoyed for many years.”