PSA: The Best Thanksgiving Feast Ditches Tradition—and Turkey

Swapping a bird and sides for a Korean barbecue spread was the best thing I ever did.

Like many tales of unconventional holidays, mine started with COVID. My now-husband, Tyson, and I met at the height of the pandemic, meaning our first Thanksgiving together was far from typical. This was pre-vaccine, and most families weren’t assembling yet, including ours. 

Though I maintained my own apartment, for all intents and purposes, I was living with Tyson, so we spent my first warm Thanksgiving day in northern Virginia driving with the top down to the nearly deserted Hollywood Casino in Charlestown, West Virginia. But we had no desire to feast on casino cuisine. Instead, it was the beginning of a tradition: We spent the holiday sharing a repast of Korean barbecue.

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Why Korean Barbecue Is the Best Thanksgiving Feast

Tyson and I have taught each other a great deal in our nearly five years together, but perhaps the most important lesson of all was introducing him to table-top grilling. Though he lived for a decade in a region with two vibrant Koreatowns, he had never sampled so much as a bite of LA galbi.

I changed that in a big way. My license plate used to be “BULGOGI,” Korean for “fire meat.” Since my elementary school days, I’ve been mildly (some would say not so mildly) obsessed with grilled meats of all provenances, but particularly Korean ones. Part of how I knew Tyson was the one was the fact that he took to KBBQ with the same gusto that I had.

Our favorite local restaurant for Korean barbecue, Gogiville in Centreville, Virginia, was the site of our first Thanksgiving. It’s an à la carte restaurant, as opposed to the many delightful all-you-can-eat establishments I frequent on other days. This year will be our fifth marking Turkey Day with beef, pork, and kimchi instead of the bird in question.

The logic is simple. Where else are you going to have a meal as ceremonious, momentous, and filling for around $30/head? Having a server cook for you at your table doubles as entertainment. It’s a complete evening.

What to Expect at a Korean Barbecue Restaurant

A meal of Korean barbecue begins with banchan, a colorful array of mostly vegetable dishes. Most of the restaurants I regularly visit festoon the table in metal bowls filled with the small sides before they seat a party. Kimchi is a no-brainer, but many of my favorites, like Bori in Houston, make the pickles with far more diverse ingredients than cabbage and chiles. In fact, my favorites include radish and apple versions. My other preferred banchan include spicy cucumbers, chewy fish cakes, and creamy Korean potato salad.

The second course (the first that we order), usually consists of pajeon (a pancake stuffed with seafood or kimchi) or dumplings called mandu. And then, mirroring the arrival of the crispy-skinned Thanksgiving fowl, come the meats for grilling.

We typically start with brisket, which crisps up almost like beefy bacon if left on the grill long enough. I dip it in an array of sauces, including salted sesame oil and ssamjang, a blend of soybean paste and gochujang, then fold the meat into a round of crunchy pickled daikon filled with warm sticky rice. Others prefer lettuce wraps. Bulgogi, thinly sliced, marinated ribeye is my favorite for its sweet garlicky tenderness. We also always make it a point to have spicy pork belly, and if we’re still hungry, the long-marinated cross-cut, bone-in short ribs known as galbi is sweet enough to stand in as a meaty dessert.

And what is Thanksgiving without sides? Besides steamed rice, salad, and banchan, there’s much to enjoy. At Gogiville, vegetable-filled soybean stew, bubbling steamed egg, and a sizzling platter of corn cheese are all included in the meal.

How to Make Korean Barbecue at Home

Do we miss the turkey? Not at all, but our desires to cook and host have taken over at times. For my first birthday we celebrated together, Tyson bought me what every girl wants: butane, a burner, and a metal grill to put on top.

In the summer, we bring a table outside and cook Korean barbecue for guests al fresco. But around Thanksgiving, we turn on every fan in the house and pray that the smoke alarm doesn’t go off. It usually does. 

The day we plan to grill, we go to H Mart or Lotte Plaza, both Korean supermarkets. Over the decades, I’ve tried countless bulgogi recipes but have never found one that hit as well as the prepared meat that I buy at those grocery stores. I also purchase most of my pickles, including kimchi and daikon wraps, to save time. 

What do I make from scratch? Fresh rice is a must. So is corn cheese (see my recipe). I also make a gingery salad dressing when I have time. But part of the appeal of the meal is being able to sit back and enjoy with friends and family without being bound to the kitchen. What a change from a tradition that started out of avoiding people! Now, Korean barbecue night is our favorite way to entertain.

Alice’s Super Simple Corn Cheese

Ingredients

• 1 can of corn, drained

• 1/2 cup Kewpie mayonnaise

• 1 teaspoon sugar

• 1 tablespoon butter, roughly chopped

• Salt and pepper, to taste

• 1/2 cup shredded mozzarella

• 1/2 cup shredded cheddar

Directions

1. Heat oven to 400 degrees F. In a medium bowl, mix the corn, mayonnaise, sugar, and butter. Season with salt and pepper.

2. In another bowl, combine the mozzarella and cheddar. Work half of the cheese blend into the corn mixture. Transfer it to an oven-proof skillet or pan, spreading the mixture in an even layer. Cover with the rest of the cheese. Put the skillet in the oven until bubbling and the top is browned to your liking.

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