City Guide: London

ISLINGTON

There’s nothing up and coming about Islington; it is well and truly up and come. Upper Street offers an endless choice of smart shops and cafes, while Camden Passage is a treasure-trove of vintage and antique boutiques and market stalls. In leafy Barnsbury, you’ll find streets of elegant white houses – ex-British Prime Minister Tony Blair was a local – and chic gastro-pubs. No wonder Islingtonites can’t imagine living anywhere else.

ANNIE’S
When you can boast Kate Moss as a customer, you know that your stash of vintage costumes and textiles is pretty much as good as it gets. This is vintage with an edge. There are no slightly smelly or scruffy goods here, just beautifully curated groupings of bygone style. Wedding dresses are a specialty (a gorgeous lace one from 1948 is about $230), or flimsily sexy slips, vintage ribbons and trimmings, fur coats, even swimsuits. Rummage the rails and the quality is soon apparent.
12 Camden Passage,www.anniesvintageclothing.co.uk

LONDON FIELDS

A Saturday outing to Broadway Market in London Fields, Hackney, is a must. As soon as you arrive, you’ll notice that it’s a seriously trendy hangout – coffee-sipping bright young things spill out of cafes onto the pavement, congregate in the pubs and stroll up and down the market’s food and vintage clothes stalls. If you love a bit of people watching, you’ve come to the right place. But it’s not just the markets that are worth a visit. The area around the green expanse of London Fields has a wealth of independent outlets, tucked into railway arches and hidden in the surrounding residential streets. No wonder it’s one of the city’s coolest addresses.

ALICE GABB AT BROADWAY MARKET
There’s something quintessentially British and quirky about turning a vintage royal commemorative mug into a candle. And that’s what Alice does. A 1902 King Edward VII and Queen Alexandra coronation mug is filled with eco soy wax. Ditto a Queen Elizabeth II silver jubilee mug. There’s even Charles and Diana wedding china ready to burn.
At Broadway Market on Saturdays www.broadwaymarket.co.uk.

CLERKENWELL

From the Victorian-era splendour of Smithfield meat market through cobbled squares and laneways to the pedestrianised charm of Exmouth Market, this is one of the most picturesque pockets of London. Clerkenwell has been a hub of activity since the Middle Ages, when the clerks (clergymen) put on plays at the site of the Clerks’ Well in Farringdon Lane. These days, you’re more likely to find architects, interior designers and other cool creatives, who gather at the area’s many pubs and restaurants. But the cobbles are still there, as are many of the medieval buildings. If you love urban history, it’s a part of London not to be missed.

GN FURNITURE
Eleven-year-old dachshund Ron stands guard in the doorway of this mid-century furniture paradise. Ron’s owner, Nikolaus Greig, is the man responsible for an exceedingly tempting collection of English and Scandinavian design classics. From vintage fabric cushions and ceramics to glassware and larger pieces of furniture, this small shop packs a punch.
31 Exmouth Market, www.gnfurniture.co.uk.

TOURS WITH A TWIST

To get your head around the city and gain some inside info, jump in one of Small Car Big City’s classic Mini Coopers (top). The trip combines trivia, unexpected sights, hot tips, insight into the fashion districts and loads more in a tailored two-hour drive. Zooming alongside the Thames in a classic car while the London Eye winks at you from across the river is delightful. Visit www.smallcarbigcity.com.

Meanwhile, for those who love shopping and also have a penchant for architecture, Insider London will take you through designer stores both old and new, highlighting architectural features, interior design and quirky facts. (Did you know that glam old-world department store Liberty is built from old ship timbers?) Plus you get to shop in between admiring the decor. Insider London has a variety of topics including street art, pop culture and death and debauchery tours. Visit
www.insider-worldwide.com.

KENSAL RISE

This residential pocket of north-west London has reinvented itself as a hub of cool vintage furniture shops and funky local pubs, thanks partly to its proximity to the hallowed grounds of Notting Hill and Ladbroke Grove. As house prices in those areas soared, house-hunters travelled north, transforming Kensal Rise into an unexpectedly desirable spot. A sprinkling of celebrity locals, like Jade Jagger and Daniel Craig (the actor was a Kensal Riser for a while), has also helped; the chance of a bit of star-spotting in the local pub makes it well worth a visit.

QUEEN'S PARK FARMERS MARKET
This Sunday morning food market has a reputation as one of the starriest in London. It’s not strictly in Kensal Rise, but it’s a short walk across Queens Park, and you might catch film star Thandie Newton and her family queuing for the fishmonger. With stalls selling fresh produce plus breads, cheeses and cakes, it’s no wonder it’s packed every week. The barbecue “sausage in a bun” stall is particularly popular. Sundays 10am–2pm, Salusbury Primary School, Salusbury Road,
www.lfm.org.uk/markets/queens-park.

SHOREDITCH

If there’s a hipper area in town right now, I’m struggling to think of it. Dalston may have the up-and-coming edge, but Shoreditch is still the place where the hordes of skinny-jeaned trendies flock. It’s got it all. Cool, independent shops and cafes, markets, chic boutiques, edgy record shops, grungy vintage emporiums and a hefty dose of gritty urban style. At the weekend, expect crowds and world-class people watching. Go for a wander, and if you can swing it, end the day on the rooftop of Shoreditch House private members’ club – the best spot in town to survey the scene.

BLITZ
If you think you’re not a fan of vintage clothing, this place will change your mind. On the scale of a department store, the vast space is an old furniture factory that has been transformed into a destination in its own right. There are clothes, of course – nothing shoddy, just rails and rails of hand-picked, beautifully presented styles, most of which barely look worn – but there’s also antique furniture, records and books, complete with squashy leather sofas to read them on. Oh, and a coffee bar. With its exposed brick walls, old wood floors and chandeliers hanging from the cavernous ceilings, this is vintage with polish.
55–59 Hanbury Street, www.blitzlondon.co.uk.

WHERE TO STAY

The Metropolitan sits on the edge of the leafy green expanse of Hyde Park, giving guests a break from the bustling city. Rooms are supplied with lush products from the in-house Como Shambhala spa, along with tech touches such as wi-fi. Your health is looked after throughout the hotel, whether you need an acai berry smoothie at breakfast, or a mocktail with immune-boosting properties at dinner. There is also a Nobu outpost here, so you can indulge in some of the world’s finest Japanese cuisine. Visit www.metropolitan.london.como.bz.

The Halkin feels more like a discreet apartment than a hotel. Luxurious touches make the difference – marble bathrooms with heated floors and old-world fittings, the discreet dressing room and one-on-one service thanks to the small number of rooms. Check out their fine diner Nahm for a hit of Thai, from Aussie chef David Thompson who is credited with starting the mod Thai wave here. Visit www.halkin.como.bz.

If you want to experience the city by living in the home of a Londoner, check out One Fine Stay. Here you’ll find a selection of fabulous homes that you can book while the owners are out of town. Perfect if you want more space, the homes are spread across London and come in a range of prices, from studios to large, luxe residences. Visit www.onefinestay.com.