Yahoo Lifestyle Blumarine Fall 2025: So Ready for Action
Despite his bubbly personality, David Koma is not joking around. After teasing his vision for Blumarine with the pre-fall 2025 collection, he made his runway debut for the brand with a convincing lineup that showed his tenure has potential for the long run. And these days, that’s encouraging.
He seems to have already found his footing in the Milan scene, tapping into local culture right away, as signaled by the soundtrack featuring Italian female rapper Myss Keta, who attended the show next to the likes of Normani and Azealia Banks. If for pre-fall Koma was inspired by the women he saw strolling in Milan’s streets, for fall 2025 he looked at Italian movie stars, citing icons such as Monica Bellucci and Anna Magnani as well as young actresses like Alice Pagani and Celeste Dalla Porta.
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These muses spoke not only of his cinematic approach to the collection — he compared his creative process to doing a film and coming up with an imaginative character — but also of the multigenerational audience he wants to target.
As result, a tension of opposing forces ran through the range, with Koma balancing his structured executions with Blumarine’s lightness, his sharp tailoring with the brand’s fluid silhouettes, the toughness of leather and hardware details with the softness of knits and floral embroideries.
The fitted coat with furry trims Irina Shayk wore to open the show, which was followed by sculptural scuba jackets and dresses, coexisted with a plethora of sheer looks, including Chantilly laced body-con frocks, billowing dresses with boho flounces, smocked blouses and see-through printed tops.
The lingerie theme was further explored in corsetry-inspired minidresses, criss-cross embellishments on leather pants and crinolines, which sold the narrative but made for the weakest element in the collection.
Blumarine’s signature rose joined a wider botanical library that also included the Sicilian thistle as a recurring motif, with the floral elements charming the most when popping as silver appliqués on a series of black looks or cut out from leather and denim shirts and pants.
He smartly continued to build on the Y2K aesthetics that his predecessor Nicola Brognano revamped the brand with during his four-year stint at the label. Koma integrated the vibe into the overall brand elevation he’s been tasked by the company to pull off. So far, this was expressed via Koma’s own glamour handwriting, which gave a high-shine patina to familiar house codes, as well as by improved fabrications, more attention to detail and a deeper commitment to accessories.
The stage is set. Koma took on the direction, defined the characters and dressed them in promising looks. Let the plot unfold.
Launch Gallery: Blumarine Fall 2025 Ready-to-Wear Collection
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