7 Deadly Sins of Gardening

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Weeds are a common cause of gardening issues, so here is how to get rid of them once and for all.

You can make a mistakeor two and generally plants will bounce back, but not always. Here’s our list of the seven most important mistakes to avoid.

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1. Don’t mow too low
Mowing low removes most of the leaf blade, resulting in a lawn that needs more water and fertiliser as the grass constantly has to regrow the leaf surface it needs to survive. This in turn creates weak roots as growth energy is directed to leaves. It also creates an opportunity for weeds to infiltrate your turf.

Solution: Adjust your mowing height to about 5cm and aim to remove just one-third of the leaf blade each mow.

2. Don’t use black plastic as a weed-mat
Plastic has a catastrophic effect on soil health. It may be an effective barrier against weeds but it also restricts or prevents the normal movement of water, air and nutrients in the soil. Soil beneath black plastic (or any non-permeable sheet) will ultimately become biologically dead.

Solution: Use purpose-designed permeable weed-mats, or a biodegradable weed-mat such as wool, ‘woven’ wood or jute. Top up mulch over the mat regularly.

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3. Don’t plant too low or too high
When planting potted and bare-rooted plants, it is important to position them at the same soil height they were grown at. Plant deeper than the original soil level and you’ll likely end up with a case of collar rot around the trunk. Too high and the plant’s root ball can dry out, meaning delicate surface roots will die and the plant may become unstable.

Solution: For potted plants, use the existing potting-mix level as a guide. For bare-rooted plants, look for an indication of the original soil level on the trunk and match it. Check depth again after watering.

4. Don’t put mulch up against plants
Mulch is great for the soil but detrimental to the trunks of almost all trees and plants. The moisture held by mulch around the trunk can lead to various debilitating fungal or rot problems and the environment it creates is perfect for insect attack.

Solution: Leave at least 5-10cm clearance around plant trunks when applying mulch. There are a few exceptions: tomatoes, corn and potatoes will all thrive with organic mulches right up against their stems. Tomatoes and corn will put out more feeder roots, and potato plants will grow more spuds.

5. Don’t leave a stump or ‘hat hook’ when pruning
The golden rule of pruning is to always cut just above a bud node or branch collar – the raised ridge around the base of a branch. Cut indiscriminately and the branch will die back to the next living bud or branch collar. Apart from looking ugly, this creates a point of entry for pests and diseases.

Solution: Trim to just a few millimetres above a bud that’s facing the direction in which you would like to encourage growth, or to 10-20mm outside of a branch collar.

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6. Don’t work the soil while it’s wet
Getting the shovel into the soil while it’s wet is a very bad idea. The soil will go from light and friable to gluggy and gluey in a flash. Soil structure – think air pockets and drainage that are essential for quality plant growth – will be destroyed and the soil may take years to restore itself.

Solution: Only work soil that has had time to drain and is dry enough to easily brush from your fingers.

7. Don’t pile lawn clippings onto garden beds
Lawn clippings make a poor mulch or green-compost on garden beds. As they decay they can form a barrier that’s impenetrable to water, restricts air movement and is the perfect breeding ground for fungus. Clippings can also carry weed seeds that have been caught up in the mow. And as the clippings compost, they can overheat the soil and draw precious nutrients, such as nitrogen, away from the plants that need them.

Solution: Add lawn clippings to your compost heap, then use the mature compost on garden beds.

Have you ever made a gardening mistake? What did you do to correct it?

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