How to make a lemonade stand
How to make a lemonade stand

Gather your supplies

  • A Main sides (2) 600 x 385 x 15mm plywood
  • B Main bottom/top (2) 1770 x 385 x 15mm plywood
  • C Divider 520 x 385 x 15mm plywood
  • D Main shelves (2) 877 x 385 x 15mm plywood
  • E Main back 1800 x 600 x 15mm plywood
  • F Main kicker 1770 x 50 x 15mm plywood
  • G Small sides (4) 600 x 385 x 15mm plywood
  • H Small shelves (6) 370 x 385 x 15mm plywood
  • I Small backs (2) 600 x 400 x 15mm plywood
  • J Small kickers (2) 370 x 50 x 15mm plywood
  • K Fruit box sides (4) 370 x 200 x 15mm plywood
  • L Fruit box back (2) 400 x 200 x 15mm plywood
  • M Fruit box front (2) 400 x 100 x 15mm plywood
  • N Fruit box base (2) 385 x 370 x 15mm plywood
  • O Roof beams (2) 70 x 35 x 1940mm treated pine
  • P Rafters (3) 70 x 35 x 800mm treated pine
  • Q Posts (2) 70 x 35 x 1900mm treated pine
  • R Braces (2) 70 x 35 x 440mm treated pine
  • S Sign 800 x 140 x 19mm treated pine or plywood

You'll also need

Dulux 1 Step Acrylic Primer Sealer & Undercoat; Dulux Weathershield Low Sheen Acrylic in Lemon Delicious, Orange Drop and Lime Fizz; White Knight Chalkboard Paint in black; PVA glue; 40mm wood screws; two 1.8m sheets Suntuf corrugated polycarbonate in Smooth Cream; 12g x 50mm Type 17 Polydome roofing screws; 65 and 75mm batten screws; 4 cup hooks

When you finish building this stand, everyone will want to stop for a refreshing drink, or at least a chat as they wander by. You just have to hope your kids don’t create traffic chaos. And, of course, if your littlies are setting up shop out the front of your place, you’d better keep a close eye on things.
The stand is made in several sections, which can be quickly screwed together. The weight of the bottom cabinets stabilises the roof, but in high winds you’d better shut up shop early.

Here's how

Step 1

Measure up 50 and 65mm from the bottom of a side (A) and square lines across the side. Predrill 2 screw holes, apply glue, then screw the side to the bottom (B). Repeat for the other side.

Step 2

Find the centre of the bottom and drill 2 clearance holes ready to screw on the divider (C). Hold 1 of the shelves (D) against the side as a spacer, apply glue to the edge of the divider, position against the shelf and screw on from the underside. Then add the top (B) by gluing and screwing into the edge of the plywood from the sides, and again use the shelf as a spacer to screw into the top of the divider.

Step 3

Find the centre point between top and bottom on both sides and the divider, and screw 1 shelf in place. Then screw on the other shelf from the side, and skew screw into the shelf from the divider.

Step 4

To hold the whole box square, screw on the back (E). Then to support the bottom shelves and give you somewhere to put your feet, glue and screw a kicker (F) under the bottom, spaced 50mm in from the edge. Screw in from the sides and from the bottom shelf.

Step 5

In a similar way, construct 2 matching smaller boxes by screwing the sides (G) to the 3 shelves (H) with the tops flush at the top, the underside of the bottom shelves 50mm up from the bottom and the centre shelves, well, centred. Hold the box square with the back panels (I) and then it’s time to add the kickers (J).

Step 6

To make the fruit boxes, measure 100mm down the front edge of the sides (K), join to the top back corner and draw in the angled line. Cut to shape. Repeat for the other side. Then screw the back and front (L,M) to the 2 sides, to make the basic shape. Put the base (N) in place from the top. As it is 15mm larger than the opening front to back, it will sit at an angle. If you want a tight joint at the top, cut the top edge at an angle of about 15º from square, or plane to shape. If you leave the edge square there will be only a 4mm or so gap at the top.

Step 7

Prepare the roof framing timbers (O,P,Q). Cut the 2 braces (R) at an angle of 50º from the horizontal at each end. This gives a roof slope of 10º. For a steeper 20º pitch, you can cut 55º angles at the ends of the braces.

Step 8

Before going any further, use a primer sealer undercoat to undercoat all timber and plywood that you will be painting orange or lime. Once the undercoat is dry, assemble the roof frame by screwing the beams (O) to the rafters (P) using two 75mm batten screws in each joint, after predrilling.

Step 9

Paint all the units and components in your colours of choice. We picked lemon for the main serving box, lime green for the smaller side units, and orange for the fruit boxes, roof framing and uprights. Apply 2 coats to give a good depth of colour. Once the paint on the main unit is dry, you can paint the outside face with 2 coats of black chalkboard paint and allow to dry.

Step 10

Cut 900mm-long lengths of Suntuf polycarbonate sheeting. This material is thin enough to cut with a good pair of household scissors.

Step 11

Screw the lengths of polycarbonate sheeting to the top of the roof frame with equal overhangs at each end. You can overlap the sheets as necessary. Predrill for the screws by boring slightly oversized holes to allow for expansion and contraction of the roof, and be careful not to overtighten the screws.

Step 12

Attach the fruit boxes to the top of the smaller cabinets by screwing into the edge of the boxes from the underside at the front. Use plywood offcuts as blocks to fix the backs. Drop the fruit box bases in place. They need no further fixing.

Step 13

From the inside, screw the posts (Q) to the sides of the main unit, making sure they’re flush with the back. Also screw the smaller side units to the posts so that the backs of the units are flush with the outer faces of the posts. This can be a little awkward as you have to reach inside the back of the smaller cabinets. Do not glue, as you will probably want to take the stand apart for storage.

Step 14

Measure 60mm down from the top of the posts and clamp an offcut of timber to each post. Centre and balance the roof on top of the offcuts – you may need a hand to do this. There should be a 400mm overhang of framing on each side. Clamp if necessary. Mark in a screw hole centred on the post and 25mm from the bottom of the rafter on each side. Predrill a clearance hole and drive 65mm batten screws into the posts to hold in place. If you can only get 75mm screws you will need to grind off the points.

Step 15

Once both sides are screwed on, remove the blocks and pivot the roof to the angle you want. This is determined by the angles you cut on the ends of the braces. Hold the brace in place so it butts against the underside of the roof frame and is flush with the back of the post. Screw to the post.

Step 16

Screw through the brace into the underside of the rafters with 75mm batten screws to complete. Touch up all screw heads with the appropriate colour. Finally, as everyone knows, it pays to advertise your wares – so make a sign (S) and hang it from the front roof beam with cup hooks. Then it’s time to open the shop.

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