''' If you had to have it mended, you'd entrust it to Australia's most reputable watch repairer, Max Schweizer, of Sydney-based Swiss Watch Service. If you wanted to know its innermost secrets, you'd turn to watch enthusiast, expert and journalist Bani McSpedden. And if you wanted the best advice about how to buy a watch, you'd ask their opinion. That's what we did . . .

How important is it to know what you want before shopping for a watch?
Bani: It's important to do the basic research, whether browsing at a retailer, looking on the net or asking friends, so that when it comes to making the purchase you know you're getting exactly what you want. The only question then should be availability and price. And, of course, how it feels on your wrist.

How can guys avoid buying a "knock-off"?
Max: "By buying from a registered agent you can never go wrong. They have a reputation as a carrier and they'd never sell a fake. Whether it's for $250 or something worth thousands, you'll get documentation and a guarantee certificate with it. Today fakes are very common; there are now several grades: 1, 2, 3, 4 and even grade 5 fakes, which will cost you almost $1000. Unless you dismantle it you can't see the difference because they are so perfectly done, so use a reputable dealer."

Are there some basic rules about which metals to choose?

Max: "It all depends on your back pocket. I wouldn't buy a gold-plated watch because the plating tarnishes off, but you won't have any problem with a good stainless steel watch. And today we have titanium watches which are corrosion proof. It used to be a very exclusive and expensive metal (titanium watches from a company such as IWC cost many thousands), but today you can find it much cheaper (eg, Swiss Military watches for just $320)."

Is the resurgent combination of gold and silver in the one time-piece an acceptable purchase? And will it last?
Bani: This is purely a matter of taste. For example, black-cased watches are currently very much in vogue. It's a curious fact that, in general, stainless-steel timepieces have held their value best, but it's how a watch looks on your wrist rather than its value that dictates the longevity of styles.

Mechanical or quartz movement systems? Is one better than the other?

Bani: "Thanks to being complex little machines rather than inexpensive electronic modules, mechanical movements have always been the preference of enthusiasts. In recent years they've also enjoyed a remarkable return to favour, giving a watch more 'soul' and generally offering better value. On the other hand, with a quartz watch you can set and forget - until the battery runs out. Other options are kinetic and solar movements, largely the domain of Japanese makes."

What's the difference between a $500 watch and a $5000 watch?

Bani: "Sometimes very little, and often none in terms of accuracy. A $500 watch will usually have a quartz movement (worth about $100) on the inside, not a mechanical one. Then there's the matter of materials and finish. But a good $500 watch will be better than a bad $5000 one."

Max: "First, you pay for the name, there's no doubt about that. But you also pay for the longevity of the watch, so if you want to keep your watch for the next 25-30 years, then you have to spend quite a bit of money and keep it serviced."

Swiss-made. Does it matter?

Bani: "One can't discount the pride the Swiss take in their product, in their watchmaking history and in their craftsmanship. However, at the very high end, Seiko in Japan make superb timepieces, though often for the Japanese market only."

Any other tips?
Max: "Buy a watch which you know has an agent or service centre in your country or city, because if you have to send it overseas every time it will become a very expensive exercise."