Anti-Ageing Skincare Guide

June 17, 2008, 1:54 pm Alex Noonan marieclaire

Turn back the clock with the latest advances in at-home skin science.

Beauty
Rating:

BRIGHTEN

Sign of ageing: Uneven tone or pigmentation.
The cause: "When exposed to the sun, the skin's defence response is to produce melanin which creates a tan," explains Rand Rusher, co-founder of Leaf & Rusher Medical Skincare Clinic. "Once this fades, some cells remain darker or pigmented."
At home treatment: "We have found that the compound resveratrol is a very effective melanin inhibitor," says Dr Michael Luke, head of research and development at Ellipse Skin Science. "Exfoliating products such as alpha or beta hydroxy acids will be of benefit, too." Also look for skincare products with vitamin C to reverse discolouration and encourage collagen production.
Best buys: Estée Lauder Revelation Age-Resisting Brightening Creme, $100. The Body Shop Vitamin C Plus Time Release Capsules, $34.95 for 28 capsules. Lumin8 by Erase Product Management, $88. Shiseido White Lucent Brightening Moisturizing Cream, $72. SK-II Whitening Source Intensive Mask, $144 for a box of six. Sisley Phyto-Blanc Lightening Foaming Cleanser, $160.

PLUMP

Sign of ageing: A less cushioned complexion. '''
The cause:''' "Chronological ageing causes a decrease in skin density," explains O'Mara. This is due to factors including "unorganised elastin, reduced collagen and decreased microcirculation".
At home treatment: Opt for products packed with collagen-promoting and hydrating ingredients, such as hyaluronic and lactic acids and retinol.
Best buys: RoC CompleteLift Immediate Lift Serum, $64. SkinVitals Lift* Co Q10 Concentrate for Face, $15.95. MD Formulations Vit-A-Plus Firming Treatment Masque, $130. Garnier Skin Naturals UltraLift SPF 15 Anti-Wrinkle Firming Day Cream, $17.99. Clarins Generation 6 Double Serum Extra-Firming Botanical Intensive Care, $103. L'Oréal Paris RevitaLift Double Lift Intensive Re-tautening Gel + Soothing Anti-wrinkle Cream, $32.45.

FIRM

Sign of ageing: A loss of skin elasticity.
The cause: "As we age, the production of both collagen and elastin and the amount of natural moisture in our skin decreases, leading to a loss of firmness," reveals Christine Snow, national training manager at True Solutions International.
At home treatment: To help replenish what skin loses with age, Snow suggests products that contain lactic acid for hydration, vitamin A for cell rejuvenation and anti-oxidants such as coffee berry, idebenone, coenzyme Q10 and superoxide dismutase.
Best buys: RoC CompleteLift Immediate Lift Serum, $64. SkinVitals Lift* Co Q10 Concentrate for Face, $15.95. MD Formulations Vit-A-Plus Firming Treatment Masque, $130. Garnier Skin Naturals UltraLift SPF 15 Anti-Wrinkle Firming Day Cream, $17.99. Clarins Generation 6 Double Serum Extra-Firming Botanical Intensive Care, $103. L'Oréal Paris RevitaLift Double Lift Intensive Re-tautening Gel + Soothing Anti-wrinkle Cream, $32.45.

RENEW

Sign of ageing: A less radiant complexion. '''
The cause:''' Cell turnover and microcirculation below the skin surface declines with age, so your complexion may lose its glow.
At home treatment: Focus on exfoliating with natural enzymes and beta hydroxy acids to boost skin radiance. O'Mara suggests resurfacing and improving the function of skin cells with products containing hydroxy acids, kojic acid, hydroquinone, retinol and anti-oxidants like vitamin C.
Best buys: Declépor Source D'éclat Instant Radiance Moisturiser, $90. La Prairie Cellular Resurfacing Cream, $260. Olay Regenerist Thermal Skin Polisher, $19.99. Ellipse Skin Science Skin Renewal Day Cream with SPF 15, $60. Priori Gentle Facial Cleanser Advanced AHA, $80. Estée Lauder Future Perfect Anti-Wrinkle Radiance Creme SPF 15, $124.

SMOOTH

Sign of ageing: Fine lines or wrinkles.
The cause: According to Dr Luke, of Ellipse Skin Science, wrinkles and fine lines occur when the skin begins to lose its elasticity, and the supporting structure of proteins - such as collagen and elastin - deteriorate. "With age and environmental assaults, the protein network becomes damaged and loose, and the skin's ability to keep producing new collagen and elastin is reduced," he reveals.
At home treatment: "Maintaining your skin in its optimum healthy state is the best way to slow the formation of wrinkles and fine lines," advises Dr Luke. To do so, he suggests using products with moisturising ingredients plus collagen and elastin promoters, combined with skin protectors like a broad-spectrum sunscreen and anti-oxidants. Use a serum for a concentrated boost, or zone in on deeper lines with a localised treatment product.
Best buys: Leaf & Rusher Active Serum, $195. Dior Capture R60/80 XP Ultimate Wrinkle Restoring Creme, $155. Nivea Visage DNAge Zone Action, $24.95. Bergman Injectables @ Home Anti-Wrinkle Serum, $249 for a box of 15. Innoxa Skinline-Defy Line-Defying Repair Serum, $32.95. Yves Saint Laurent Lisse Expert Esthetic Targeted Anti-Wrinkle Night Treatment, $124.

Prices and availability correct as of June 17, 2008.

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