The doyen of up-dos
From Princess Diana to Kate Moss and Lady Gaga, Sam McKnight, global stylist ambassador for Pantene, has worked with some of the world’s biggest names. Each season, he’s also the runway hairstylist of choice for Chanel and Vivienne Westwood. Over his 30-year career he’s perfected an array of different ’dos, including the classic ponytail. Follow his steps to creating this chic style yourself.
1. Apply a smoothing or volumising mousse to freshly washed hair and brush through to the ends.
2. Using a round brush, blow-dry your strands smooth and away from your face.
3. Rub a small amount of hair gel or a light finishing cream between your hands. Smooth over the top and sides of your head, gathering hair as you go, and secure with an elastic.
4. To create movement in your ponytail, curl sections using hot tongs. Once cool, brush out the curls using a natural bristle brush.
5. Take a small piece of hair from the underside of the ponytail, cover with gel and wrap around the elastic. Secure the end with a bobby pin.
You’ll need: Pantene Pro-V Style Body Builder Mousse, $6.99, and Clinicare Luminizing Elixir, $19.99.
Tip: If you have fine hair, Sam McKnight suggests using clip-in hair extensions to add volume. Once you’ve created your ponytail, “Wrap [the extensions] around the elastic and secure with grips,” he says.
Queen of the catwalk
With 20 years experience, Pat McGrath, Max Factor global creative design director, reigns as the make-up artist of choice for some of the world’s hottest fashion brands, including Prada, Stella McCartney and Louis Vuitton. At the recent spring/summer collections, she reinterpreted the smoky eye at both Lanvin and Gucci. “[It’s a] classic look that emphasises the eyes and looks good on everyone,” she enthuses. Here, McGrath shares her top tips for creating a sultry stare.
1. Prepare your eyelids by smoothing on a sheer layer of foundation.
2. Line your eyes with a black kohl pencil. Soften the edges by lightly smudging them with your ring finger.
3. Next, intensify the eyeliner by applying a dark, creamy eyeshadow from your lashes and blending it over the socket.
4. Add a touch of a creamy highlighter to the inner corners of the eyes and under the brow for a luminous effect.
5. Finish with a sweep of volumising mascara to curled lashes.
You’ll need: Max Factor Colour Perfection Eyeshadow in Star-Studded Black, $16.95, False Lash Effect Waterproof Mascara in Black, $24.95, and Liquid Effect Pencil in Black Fire, $18.95.
Tip: If you want to add even more intensity to this look, as we did at Gucci this season, top off the creamy shadow with a shimmering black eyeshadow,” says Pat McGrath.
The colour chameleon
Over three decades, French make-up artist, Tom Pecheux, has juggled a packed and diverse schedule. He’s worked with renowned photographers, including Mario Testino, directed the runway looks for fashion houses such as Prada and Marni, and consulted for luxury beauty brands, including his current post as creative make-up director for Estée Lauder. These are his tips for creating a traffic-stopping pout.Pro tips: bright lipstick1. If you’re suffering from dry or cracked lips, apply a moisturising balm before going to bed to help reduce flakiness and lines.
2. The next day, apply your chosen shade using a lip brush. This will help you create the most precise and polished result.
3. Now it’s time to consider the rest of your make-up. Keep it modern by balancing the texture of your lipstick with your eyeshadow.
If you’re wearing a matt finish on your lips, your eyes should be shimmery. However, if lips are glossy, consider a matt eyeshadow instead.
You’ll need: Estée Lauder Signature Lipstick in Brilliant Pink, $42, or Pure Color Lasting Creme Lipstick in Scarlett Siren and Coral Fantasy, $45 each.
Tip: For the uninitiated, a bright shade can be a bit daunting, concedes Tom Pecheux: “Try dabbing the colour on your lips, then slowly build the coverage to find your limit.”
The stylist to the stars
With a résumé that reads like a who’s who of Hollywood, Luigi Murenu, global creative consultant for John Frieda, has worked with the world’s leading stars and top fashion brands. He explains how to achieve a salon-perfect finish at home.
1. Apply a volumising mousse to wet hair. Create a part line, then roughly blow-dry your lengths, maintaining as much natural movement as possible.
2. Spray a dry shampoo onto your roots and massage it in with your fingertips.
3. Using a natural bristle brush, gently smooth over your style, being careful not to flatten it.
4. Loosely wrap sections of your hair around a large curling tong (the barrel should be approximately 2.5cm wide), leaving the ends out to ensure a more natural result.
5. Once cooled, rake your fingers through the curls to break them up. Mist with a gloss-boosting hairspray.
You’ll need: John Frieda Luxurious Volume Anytime Volume Refresher, $15.99, and Luxurious Volume Bountiful Body Mousse, $15.99.
Tip: “Make sure your hair is 100 per cent dry before tonging or applying rollers, otherwise your look won’t last,” advises Luigi Murenu.
The coif connoisseur
Guido Palau, creative consultant for Redken, is arguably the most in-demand hairstylist at the runway shows in New York, Paris and Milan. For the spring/summer 2012 collections, he worked with more than 20 fashion houses, including Alexander McQueen, Lanvin and Marc Jacobs. Thanks to its versatility, one of his favourite ’dos is the classic French roll. “It can have a soft and feminine feeling, or be lacquered and polished for a modern edge,” he asserts. He describes how to create this ladylike look.
1. Apply a body-building cream to damp hair and roughly blow-dry.
2. Spritz on a texturising lotion and scrunch it through your lengths to add bulk.
3. Gather your hair at the nape of the neck and twist it, so you’re encouraging the ends upwards as hair rolls onto itself. The key is to keep the shape loose, but secured firmly with lots of pins in a vertical line down the back of your head.
4. Finish with a generous mist of flexible hairspray.
You’ll need: Redken Aerate 08 All-Over Bodifying Cream-Mousse, $28.95, Style Connection Wool Shake 08 Gel-Slush Texturizer, $36.95, and Hairsprays Fashion Work 12, $26.95.
Tip: “At Louis Vuitton, we did a more informal French roll,” says Guido Palau. “The hair was pulled back in a less severe way, with loose strands at the hairline, and the ends were left out of the twist. This gave it an edgy feel.”
The skin specialist
Whether he’s working backstage at New York Fashion Week, on a photo shoot or developing new make-up and skincare products, celebrity make-up artist Napoleon Perdis understands that preparing the skin is a vital first step in every make-up look. These are his five steps to faking a flawless finish.
1. Prepare your skin for make-up by massaging in a serum.
2. Using a synthetic foundation brush, smooth a primer over your face, including the lip and eye area.
3. With the same brush, apply foundation from the centre of your face and work outwards to your chin, brows and eyes. For a second-skin effect, be sure to buff it in. Then, using the remaining foundation left on the brush, sweep it across your forehead, cheeks and around the jawline.
4. To conceal puffiness around the eyes, apply concealer in a V-shape, with the top of the “V” meeting the inner and outer corners of your eyes.
5. Dab an illuminator on the top of the cheekbones, down the bridge of the nose to the cupid’s bow and along the brow bone.
You’ll need: Napoleon Perdis Sheer Genius Liquid Foundation SPF 22 in Look 2, $69, Pro Palette Concealer, $55, and Artist Foundation Brush 19b, $68.
Tip: To cover a pimple, use a concealer that matches your skin tone. “Apply it to the blemish using a fine brush, then blend around the edges to leave the majority of product directly on the spot,” says Napoleon Perdis.
The king of cool
Eugene Souliman, global creative director for Wella Professionals, is constantly jetsetting between Paris, Milan, London and New York thanks to his avant-garde approach to hairstyling. Despite his creative flare, he believes people shouldn’t take their strands too seriously. We asked him to reveal his tips for creating an easy ’do for everyday. “This look is about simplifying everything,” he reveals. “It’s really not about overstyling the hair and, in fact, looks better when your approach is more relaxed.”
1. Part hair and mist a sea-salt spray onto almost-dry lengths.
2. Gather your hair into a ponytail and twist it into a loose bun. Secure with bobby pins, making sure the ends are left out.
3. Using your blow-dryer with the diffuser attached, dry your style.
4. Once cooled, unravel the bun and work your fingers through your strands to break up the waves for a mussed-up result.
You’ll need: Wella Professionals Ocean Spritz Beach Texture Spray, $24.
Tip: “Colour is the key for this style. It’s best on blondes,” enthuses Eugene Souleiman. Who should avoid it? “Women with very straight, thick hair,” he adds.
The glow getter
Shiseido artistic director Dick Page has been firmly established on the international fashion-show circuit for more than 10 years, working with the likes of Yves Saint Laurent, Gucci and Marc Jacobs. Another designer he regularly collaborates with is Michael Kors. “We’ve done so many different looks with bronzer throughout the years,” explains Page. Re-create the glamour of the Michael Kors show with Page’s radiance-boosting advice.
1. Apply a sheer foundation then finish with a light dusting of loose powder to prevent the bronzer from catching or streaking.
2. Give your skin a radiance boost by applying a gold highlighting powder across the top of the cheekbones, a touch on the forehead, down the nose and a bit on the chin.
3. Look in the mirror and smile. Then, using a large powder brush, whisk the bronzer across your cheekbones, down the bridge of the nose, a little bit through the temples at the hairline and on your forehead.
4. Don’t forget the rest of your body. Sweep a bit of the powder across your collarbones and on the décolletage to finish your look.
You’ll need: Shiseido Luminizing Satin Face Color in BE 206, $60, Powder Brush, $79, and Bronzer in Medium, $60.
Tip: “If you have pale skin, go for a beige-gold glow,” says Dick Page. Lessen the intensity of a regular bronzer by mixing it with highlighting powder before applying.
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