How to lay paving

May 25, 2012, 4:09 pm Yahoo!7

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Here are the five basic steps to laying your own paving. For this project, we used timber edging (45 x 70mm H4-treated pine) but you can install a concrete haunch after the paving is laid if you prefer.

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Gather your supplies

Pavers

H4-treated pine or concrete for edging

Screws and hardwood pegs

Manual tamper or plate compactor

Paving sand

Sharp sand for joints

Shovel

Base material such as road base or crushed rock (optional)

Timber screed or notched board

Rubber mallet

Rake

Broom

Here's How

Step 1: Using H4-treated pine, outline shape of area to be paved. Screw together and secure with hardwood pegs around outside. Excavate to appropriate depth. To calculate depth, measure thickness of paver and add 25mm of sand and 65mm of base material (that is 75mm, less 10mm once compacted), if using.
Step 2: Spread base material (if using) to a depth of about 75mm and compact. A manual tamper (pictured here) can be used for compacting small areas but, if you’re paving a large space, you can hire a plate compactor to help make the job easier.
Step 3: Once the base is fully compacted, spread a layer of sand on top, to a depth of about 25mm. Rake to level and use a timber screed to smooth surface. A notched board (pictured here) makes a handy screed for a small area of paving, where a single piece can span from 1 side to the other.
Step 4: Start in 1 corner or along 1 edge and lay pavers, working your way forward so you only step on pavers, not levelled sand. As you place each paver down, gently tap with a rubber mallet for minor adjustments. Continue until area is fully paved.
Step 5: To fill the cracks, spread a light layer of sharp sand over surface and use a broom to sweep it into gaps. Move broom back and forth until all joints are filled, then sweep off excess.

You’ll also need

Before you start: Do a little planning and consider the following aspects of the job so everything runs smoothly:
Edging: It’s important that paved areas are secured around the edges so the pavers don’t shift and sag over time. For square or rectangular shaped areas such as patios, this can be done using H4-treated timber boards or sleepers. Just lay them out, screw together at the corners and hold in place with hardwood pegs. Alternatively, you can lay pavers without an edging and install a border of concrete around the perimeter once they’re laid – this is known as haunching. For curved areas of paving, aluminium or plastic edging products are also options.
Base material: Pavers are laid into a bed of sand, about 25mm thick, but it’s essential the ground below the sand (the subsurface) is stable so the pavers don’t settle unevenly or shift over time. If your subsurface is heavy clay, you can get away with just compacting it before laying the sand. However, if the ground is soft or unstable, you’ll need to lay road base or crushed rock, about 75mm thick, then firmly compact and lay the sand on top.
Drainage: While paved areas may look flat, they usually feature a slight slope so rainwater can drain away quickly. When you’re preparing the ground, it’s important to create a fall in the subsurface of about 15-20mm per metre, away from any adjacent building.