Make this great book stand that will keep your cooking instructions in view. And if you have an ipad, it will keep it from getting dirty.
Gather your supplies
320 x 19 x 400mm laminated pine or other untreated timber (see Notes, below)
12.5mm-dia x 350mm hardwood dowel
1. You could use a single timber offcut, but it might cup with frequent wetting and drying. It’s better to use edge-laminated timber, as this seems to lessen the stresses, so the boards will stay flat.
2. Standard 19mm-thick edge-laminated pine panels come in 300 and 405mm widths. If using a 405mm piece, rip along length to right width and use the offcut. You could also use a 400mm offcut of 300- or 290mm-wide timber (ideally edge-laminated), but with this option you will also need a 100mm offcut of 42 x 19mm timber to cut down for blocks.
3. We used a Rasto Mono jig kit, which is quite expensive, but you can get suitable dowelling jigs from around $20.
- Step 1: Mark out and cut timber to 290 x 400mm. If you started out with a wider board, you may be able to cut a 25mm- wide strip from offcut, which you can use to cut blocks later on.
- Step 2: Using Recipe Stand Diagram as a guide, mark in 25mm- wide frame edges, as well as 2 lines, 25 and 40mm from bottom. Also mark in centres of 4 dowel holes, located 70mm in from ends along bottom edge and 20mm down from top on each side.
- Step 3: Use a dowelling jig or drilling guide to bore a 12.5mm hole at each dowel mark, ensuring they are in centre of edge, and at depth required. The 2 hinge holes are 72mm deep, and bottom pin holes are 102mm deep. Only bore hinge holes in and out once, so hinges retain friction when assembled.
- Step 4: Make internal cut along 40mm line with a power saw. To do this, clamp work so line is over edge of bench, and loosen depth control of saw. Align saw base and blade with line, start saw and gently push blade into timber, keeping a firm hold on saw so it does not kick back. The back of blade should come down in front of one edge set-out line, then cut to other edge set-out line. Let saw stop before retracting from work. The blade should leave about a 3mm wide cut (kerf), wide enough to adhere anti-slip bumpers later on.
- Step 5: To cut frame edges with 2 cross-grain cuts, clamp a straightedge to work and use a jigsaw against it to cut straight lines.
- Step 6: Using diagram as a guide, mark in two 40 x 25mm housings in bottom edge. Cut across grain with a tenon saw.
- Step 7: Chisel out housings. You could cut blocks from housing, but chances are they will not be neat, as the wood will tend to split around growth rings.
- Step 8: To make locking pins, bore two 12.5mm dowel holes through the 100 x 25mm pine offcut, then cut 2 blocks to 40mm, so holes are centred. Glue and tap a 100mm long dowel into blocks so they are flush on the outside.
- Step 9: Finish cutting into corners with handsaw to neatly sever panel from frame. Remove, sand all components smooth and put back together to check for ease of fit.
- Step 10: With panel and frame together, push in locking pins. The fit should be firm but not overly tight. You need to be able to insert and remove them by hand. If too tight, lightly sand dowels.
- Step 11: Put a piece of card between panel and frame on both sides to take up width of saw cuts. Partly tap in hinge dowels, leaving out plenty in case you need to remove dowel later. You want a firm fit to help hold frame and panel in open position.
- Step 12: Make angled drilling block by measuring 25mm along 1 edge of a piece of 70 x 35mm pine offcut and 75mm along opposite edge. Join with a line and cut. Bore a 12.5mm hole through centre of block from square end, then use this to bore holes through panel in positions marked on diagram. Test that the locking pins, which double as book supports when stand is open, will fit in holes.
- Step 13: Sand unit smooth and tap hinge pins home. Apply 2 coats of water-resistant coating such as polyurethane, which makes it easy to wipe down when needed. To make the stand less prone to sliding on benchtop, fix self-adhesive, anti-slip bumpers to underside of frame and panel.
You’ll also need
70 x 35mm pine offcut; food-grade clear finish; exterior PVA; 12 x 2mm polyurethane self-adhesive, anti-slip bumpers (4)